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THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


'^  *T-,  -,-  -*■«'<•  *^r^  »■»-#•  -• 


C.  W.  GKLKTT. 


The  Advertiser  Historical  Series 
No.  3 


A  Life  on  the  Ocean 


AUTOBIOGRAPHY  OF 

Captain  Charles  Wetherby  Gelett 

A  Retired  Sea  Captain 

Whose  Life  Trail  Crossed  and  Recrossed 

Hawaii  Repeatedly, 


Reprinted  by  permission  from  The  Oj'ai,  a  little  country 
California  newspaper  of  the  early  90s 


With  an  Introduction 

By  Lorrin  A.  Thurston 


Jiawaiian  Gazette  Co.,  Ltd. 
Honolulu,  Hawaii,  1917 


INTRODUCTION 


There  has  recently  been  a  growing  demand,  both  on  the 
part  of  permanent  residents  of  and  visitors  to  Hawaii,  for 
specific  information  concerning  the  history  of  Hawaii,  more 
particularly  of  the  period  of  transition  from  the  ancient  feudal 
system  when  the  King  and  Chiefs  had  supreme  and  absolute 
power  of  life  and  death  and  the  common  people  had  no  rights 
of  person  or  property,  to  the  era  when  constitutional  protec- 
tion and  the  laws  of  civilization  became  established. 

A  comprehensive  history  of  Hawaii  has  yet  to  be  written. 
Its  compilation  will  involve  a  vast  amount  of  investigation 
and  study,  as  the  material  is  scattered  through  governmental 
and  court  records,  private  correspondence  and  journals,  news- 
papers and  magazine  articles ;  while  many  matters,  especially 
regarding  the  events  leading  up  to  annexation,  rest  in  the 
personal  and  unwritten  knowledge  of  leading  participants. 

Alexander's  History,  written  for  public  school  purposes,  the 
best  Hawaiian  history  now  available,  is  necessarily  condensed. 

Other  books  bearing  upon  various  phases  of  Hawaiian  life, 
were  issued  in  limited  editions,  and  moreover,  are  mostly  out 
of  print. 

Under  these  circumstances,  it  has  been  decided  by  the 
Hawaiian  Gazette  Co.,  Ltd.,  publishers  of  The  Pacific  Com- 
mercial Advertiser,  to  meet  the  public  desire  for  information 
by  reprinting  the  more  valuable  of  the  out-of-print  books  and 
by  collecting  and  publishing  the  personal  memoirs,  reminis- 
cences and  writings  of  some  of  the  older  residents  of  Hawaii, 
who  are  able  to  give  first-hand  evidence  of  what  they  have 
seen  and  heard,  or  to  relate  the  traditions  and  evidence  of  what 
had  previously  transpired,  obtained  by  them  from  those  who 
have  gone  before. 

In  pursuance  of  this  decision  the  "Reminiscences  of  Old 
Hawaii,"  by  Sereno  Edwards  Bishop,  have  been  published  in 
The  Advertiser,  and  also  published  in  book  form,  as  "No.  1  of 
The  Advertiser  Historical  Series." 

vb^_i.  3 


This  has  been  followed  by  the  like  publication  in  The  Ad- 
vertiser of  "A  Tour  Through  Hawaii,"  with  accompanying 
remarks  by  Rev.  William  Ellis,  an  English  Missionary  to  the 
South  Pacific  Islands,  who  visited  Hawaii  in  1822  and  1823 
and  lived  here  for  about  two  years.  The  Ellis  History,  as 
No.  2  of  the  Historical  Series,  is  now  also  in  book  form. 

The  third  in  The  Advertiser's  Hawaiian  Historical  Series  is 
the  "Autobiography  of  Captain  C.  W.  Gelett." 

Captain  Gelett  was  of  old  Massachusetts  stock,  going  to  sea 
in  a  whaling  ship  when  he  was  twenty  years  of  age,  in  1833. 

He  worked  up  through  the  ranks  and  became  a  captain  on 
his  fifth  voyage.  He  continued  running  as  a  sea  captain  in 
whaling  and  trading  ships,  and  finally  as  captain  of  the  Mis- 
sionary packet  "Morning  Star"  until  the  early  70s. 

During  those  old  rough-and-ready  days,  when  American 
ships  were  on  every  sea  and  in  every  port.  Captain  Gelett  was 
a  prominent  figure.  He  recounts  adventures  in  every  part  of 
the  world  from  fighting  lions  and  savage  negroes  in  Africa  to 
bears  in  Kamchatka,  mutineers  on  board  ship  and  whales  all 
over  the  world. 

His  life  trail  crossed  and  recrossed  Hawaii  repeatedly,  and 
his  story  includes  dining  with  Kamehameha  HI  in  the  forties 
and  visiting  the  Volcano  of  Kilauca  in  the  early  60s. 

The  boyhood  memories  of  the  writer  include,  among  their 
pleasant  features,  recollections  of  Captain  Gellet,  who,  in  the 
early  seventies,  lived  in  what  is  now  the  residence  of  S.  M. 
Damon,  on  Nuuanu  Street,  adjacent  to  the  present  Japanese 
Consulate.  He  wore  the  flowing  patriarchal  beard  shown  in 
the  photograph  which  forms  the  frontispiece  of  this  volume, 
which  is  a  perfect  representation  of  him.  To  my  youthful 
memory  the  most  prominent  feature  in  connection  with  the 
Captain  was  that  he  always  drove  a  fast  horse,  and  that  the 
children  of  the  neighborhood  were  frequently  invited  to  ride 
with  him. 

He  always  walked  with  a  limp,  the  cause  being  that  early 
in  his  career  his  leg  became  entangled  in  a  harpoon  line  at- 
tached to  a  whale  in  such  manner  that  he  was  jerked  over- 
board, grabbing  the  gunwale  of  the  boat  as  he  went  over.     In 


this  position  the  whale  dragged  the  boat  for  about  a  mile 
with  Gelett's  leg  as  an  auxiliary  tow-line.  A  spirited  ac- 
count of  the  details  of  this  adventure  is  included  in  the 
Captain's  story. 

Captain  Gelett  wrote  his  own  biography  in  the  early  90s, 
and  it  was  published  in  a  little  country  paper  in  California,  the 
only  known  copy  of  which  is  now  in  the  possession  of  Mr. 
Leverett  H.  Mesick,  who  has  kindly  permitted  The  Advertiser 
to  reproduce  it. 

It  is  believed  that  those  interested  in  true  tales  of  adventure 
and  the  history  of  the  virile  shipping  days  of  the  middle  of  the 
last  century,  will  be  intensely  interested  in  this  straightforward 
personal  tale  which  records  in  simple  language  a  series  of 
unvarnished  facts  which  rival  fiction,  but  are  the  simple  record 
of  Captain  Gelett's  daily  life. 

LoRRiN  A.  Thurston. 

Honolulu,  Sept.  30,  1917. 


A  LIFE  ON  THE  OCEAN 


Being  the  Autobiography  of  Charles  Wetherby  Gelett, 
a  Retired  Sea  Captain 

BIRTH   AND    ANCESTRY. 

I  was  born  at  Fairhaven,  Massachusetts,  on  the  seventh  day  of 
November,  A.  D.  1813,  and  have  survived  my  seventy-eighth  birth- 
day. 

My  paternal  grandfather  was  the  son  of  a  French  nobleman. 
Fleeing  from  France  at  the  age  of  eighteen  to  escape  conscription, 
he  came  to  America,  became  a  farmer,  married,  and  had  two  sons, 
George,  John,  my  father,  and  a  daughter  who  married  a  Winslow. 
My  uncle  George  Gelett  settled  in  Susquehanna  county,  Pennsyl- 
vania, where  he  lived  the  quiet  life  of  farmer  until  he  was  one 
hundred  and  four  years  of  age.  Both  uncle  George  and  my  father 
were   Eevolutionary   soldiers   and  pensioners. 

I  remember  but  once  having  seen  my  grandfather  Gelett,  when  I 
was  only  three  years  old.  He  was  a  tall  man  and  wore  a  black 
beard.  He  was  mounted  on  a  horse  and  greatly  impressed  me  by 
saying  that  he  was  going  to  tie  me  to  his  horse 's  tail  and  take  me 
away.  When  his  father  died  in  France,  leaving  a  large  estate,  some 
of  the  American  Geletts  went  to  France  to  enforce  their  claims  but 
failed  to  prove  their  identity  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  French 
authorities. 

FATHER  A   SOLDIER   OP   WASHINGTON. 

My  father  entered  the  Eevolutionary  army  at  the  age  of  nineteen. 
He  was  a  ruddy  young  soldier,  and  once  when  General  Washington 
was  inspecting  his  regiment  attracted  the  General's  attention,  who 
approached  him  and  patting  him  on  the  cheek  said,  "My  boy,  you 
look  young  for  this  business."  "Show  me  a  red-coat!"  replied 
father. 

My  mother,  Kesia,  was  the  daughter  of  John  Mosier,  a  farmer  of 
Dartsmouth,  Massachusetts,  of  English  extraction.  My  father  and 
mother  were  the  parents  of  six  sons  and  nine  daughters.  I  was  the 
thirteenth  child  and  am  the  sole  survivor  of  the  family. 

Fairhaven  lies  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Equishnet  river,  opposite 
New  Bedford,  and  in  1813  had  a  population  of  about  1,500  souls. 
Fairhaven  owned  a  dozen  whaling  ships,  and  the  material  interest 
of  its  people  were  directly  or  indirectly  connected  with  the  whaling 
industry.      M|y   home    was    a   cottage    about   two   miles    east    of   the 


village.     It  was  about  one  mile  from  tlie  sliore  and  commanded  a 
fine  view  of  the  ocean. 

My  father  raised  cattle,  sheep  and  sufficient  vegetables  for  domestic 
use.  His  land  extended  to  the  sea-shore,  and  the  fishing  in  the 
harbor  and  along  the  shore  was  the  best  in  the  world.  My  parents 
were  conscientious  and  devoted  Christians.  Father  was  a  member 
of  the  Baptist  Church.  There  was  also  a  chapel  about  a  mile  from 
our  home  where  meetings  were  conducted  by  itinerant  preachers. 

EARLY  LIFE  AND   EDUCATION. 

Like  other  New  England  boys  I  was  early  taught  the  lesson  of 
self-support.  After  my  twelfth  year  I  paid  for  my  clothes  from  the 
sales  of  shell-fish  which  I  caught,  and  peddled  in  New  Bedford.  I  had 
little  schooling.  The  school  house  was  more  than  a  mile  distant  from 
our  home,  and  the  school  was  held  only  during  three  months  in 
winter.  I  had,  however,  a  decided  love  for  mathematics,  and  during 
the  last  sessions  of  the  school  which  I  attended,  acquired  sufficient 
knowledge  of  arithmetic  to  enable  me  afterward  to  pursue  my  studies 
without  a  teacher.  I  was  fond  of  the  use  of  carpenter's  tools,  and 
making  sleds,  wagons  and  articles  of  use  or  ornament.  I  spent  much 
of  my  time  in  a  whale  boat  belonging  to  father,  and  at  an  early  age 
became  an  expert  boatman  and  much  interested  in  everything  per- 
taining to  the  whaling  industry. 

I  watched  the  ships  depart  aud  saw  them  return  with  their  valu- 
able cargoes  of  oil  and  bone.  I  saw  the  wealthy  and  respected  sea- 
captain  who  had  begun  his  career  as  a  poor  sailor  boy,  and  I  resolved 
to  go  to  sea. 

A    SEA   LIFE    DETERMINED    UPON. 

One  day  when  but  a  small  boy  father  and  I  were  engaged  in 
weeding  a  bed  of  carrots.  Having  done  my  part  of  the  work  I  stood 
up  and  said: 

"Father,  when  I  am  big  enough  I  am  going  to  sea!" 

I  shall  never  forget  the  look  he  gave  me.    Said  he, 

"Charles,  don't  you  ever  let  me  hear  you  say  a  word  again  about 
going  to  sea!  " 

I  was  silenced,  but  none  the  less  determined  to  go  to  sea  at  the 
first    opportunity. 

When  I  was  seventeen  years  old  I  resolved  to  learn  the  cooper's 
trade.  My  object  was  thereby  to  obtain  a  place  on  ship-board  with- 
out going  into  the  forecastle. 

I  agreed  with  Captain  Nathan  Allen,  of  Fairhaven,  to  serve  him 
as  an  apprentice  for  two  years,  for  fifty  dollars  per  annum.  The 
Captain  had  one  other  apprentice,  a  young  man  of  my  own  age,  who 


told  me  tliat  the  Captain  was  a  good  master  with  one  exception — 
occasionaliy  he  became  drunk  and  abused  his  apprentices. 

About  six  months  after  my  apprenticeship  began  Captain  Allen 
one  day,  being  very  drunk,  entered  the  shop  and  abused  my  fellow 
and  mj'self  in  language  more  forcible  than  polite.  Without  saying 
a  word  I  put  on  my  coat  and  left  the  shop  never  to  return,  and  com- 
pleted my  two-years'  term  with  Thompson  &  Damon,  of  Fairhaven, 
who  were  men  of  integrity  and  treated  me  with  great  kindness.  I 
lived  with  Mr.  Thompson,  whose  estimable  wife  was  like  a  mother 
to  me,  and  whose  good  advice  greatly  influenced  my  course. 

FIRST    VOYAGE    TO    INDIAN    OCEAN. 

At  the  close  of  my  apprenticeship  I  was  fifty  dollars  in  debt,  there- 
fore I  worked  at  journey  work  by  the  piece  from  five  o'clock  in  the 
morning  until  nine  o  'clock  at  night  until  I  had  paid  both  my  in- 
debtedness and  for  my  outfit  for  a  voyage;  and  then  one  day  in  June, 
in  the  year  1833,  I  shipped  as  cooper  on  board  the  Cicero,  Captain 
Huzzey,   of  New  Bedford,   bound  for  the  Indian  Ocean. 

Leaving  home,  parents  and  friends  for  the  first  time  to  encounter 
the  unknown  dangers  of  a  long  ocean  voyage  and  a  perilous  enter- 
prise, my  heart  was  too  full  for  utterance,  and  I  could  not  bid  them 
farewell.  Even  the  old  dog,  my  companion  in  many  a  hunt  for  fox 
and  rabbit,  seemed  dearer  to  me  than  ever  before.  Watching  for 
a  favorable  opportunity  I  quietly  walked  out  of  the  house  by  the 
back  door  and  left  without  a  word. 

The  Cicero  was  a  small  ship  of  three  hundred  tons  burthen.  Its 
company  numbered  thirty-three,  all  told.  Comfortable  quarters  in 
the  steerage  were  assigned  to  me.  When  not  employed  as  cooper  I 
assisted  in  making  or  taking  in  sail. 

My  shipmate  and  most  intimate  friend  was  Harry,  a  young  man 
of  my  age,  the  only  son  of  a  rich  Boston  wholesale  liquor  dealer. 
Harry  had  nearly  broken  his  fond- mother's  heart  by  shipping  on  the 
Cicero  without  his  parents'  knowledge.  But  he  was  a  young  man  of 
excellent  qualities  and  we  became  strongly  attached  to  one  another. 

AN   EXPERIENCE   AT   FAYAL. 

Our  ship  first  touched  at  Fayal  for  recruits.  While  lying  off  and 
on  this  harbor,  the  captain  and  one  of  the  boat's  crew  being  ashore, 
there  came  on  a  gale  of  wind.  The  ship  put  to  sea  under  the  mate's 
command,  and  the  gale  continuing  for  three  days  we  lay  to,  unable 
to  return.  The  captain  attempted  to  board  the  ship  the  day  we  left, 
but  getting  out  into  the  channel  he  could  not  reach  the  ship  because 
of  the  wind  and  rough  sea,  and  was  compelled  to  put  back.  Night 
coming  on,  he  fell  to  the  leeward  of  the  harbor,  could  not  get  back, 
but  put  into  a  cove  where  he  remained  all  night. 


10 

On  the  fourtli  day  the  captain  came  aboard  and  we  resumed  our 
voyage.  Touching  St.  lago,  one  of  the  Cape  De  Verde  Islands,  we 
crossed  the  equator  in  longitude  25  degrees  west. 

ADVENTURES  WITH  NEPTUNE   ON   THE   LINE. 

As  we  approached  the  equator  some  of  the  boj'S  were  sent  aloft  to 
"see  the  line."  One  reported  that  he  saw  "a  blue  streak"  but  was 
"not  quite  sure."  That  evening  Old  Neptune  came  on  board  to 
pay  his  respects  to  his  children  who  were  crossing  the  equator  for 
the  first  time.  All  the  sailors  who  had  never  before  crossed  the  line 
were  assembled  on  deck  amidships.  The  second  mate,  who  plays  the 
part  of  Neptune,  takes  his  stand  in  the  rnzzen  chains,  concealed  from 
view,  and  in  a  deep  voice  cries,  "Ship,  ahoy!"  "Halloo!"  responds 
the  mate.  "Heave  to  and  let  me  come  aboard!"  says  Neptune. 
"Hard  a  lee!"  orders  the  mate,  and  the  ship  is  brought  to  the  wind 
and  Neptune  is  seen  climbing  in  over  the  rail.  He  accosts  the  mate 
and  inquires  if  there  are  any  of  his  boys  aboard  the  ship  who  have 
not  been  initiated. 

Neptune  wears  an  old  monkey-jacket.  His  beard  is  made  of  Ma- 
nila and  reaches  to  his  waist.  On  his  head  is  a  sou'wester  hat  fitted 
for  the  occasion.  He  looks  more  like  Old  Nick  than  Old  Nep.  The 
boys  stand  near  the  deck-tub  which  is  filled  with  water.  Neptune 
shakes  hands  with  them  all,  telling  them  that  he  must  perform 
certain  rites  to  initiate  them  into  his  family.  Each  man  is  then 
required  to  stand  in  the  tub  of  water  and  be  shaved. 

Tar  and  slush  stirred  together  are  used  for  lather,  and  a  piece  of 
iron  hoop  six  inches  in  length  is  used  for  a  razor.  The  face  being 
scraped  the  captain's  speaking  trumpet  is  brought  and  the  victim  is 
told  to  hail  the  ship.  As  he  puts  it  to  his  mouth  and  cries  "Ship, 
ahoy!"  a  bucket  of  salt  water  is  turned  down  into  the  trumpet, 
dri'nching  the  poor  fellow,  much  to  the  amusement  of  the  old  sailors. 

Having  been  told  that  I  might  escape  the  ordeal  by  treating 
Neptunr-,  I  procured  a  bottle  of  brandy,  gave  him  a  drink,  and  was 
allowed  to  go  free.  The  ceremony  being  ended,  Neptune  took  a 
solemn  farewell  of  his  children  and  left  the  ship  as  he  came.  Some 
of  the  more  verdant  boys  believed  Neptune  really  had  visited  them. 

MAN    OVERBOARD    OFF   CAPE    GOOD    HOPE. 

Nothing  unusual  occurred  before  rounding  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 
Here  we  encountered  a  heavy  gale  from  the  southwest,  which  began 
at  midnight  and  increased  in  force  all  the  next  day  until  it  blew  a 
hurricane. 

At  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  the  captain  deemed  it  dangerous 
to  run  and  we  hove  to  under  storm-sails.  We  carried  a  close-reefed 
maintop-bail   and   stay-sail. 


11 

At  noon  the  main  top-sail  blew  into  ribbons,  the  ship  labored 
heavily  and  the  order  was  given  to  take  in  the  waist  boat — that  is, 
the  boat  on  the  cranes  amidships.  Harry  and  I  obeyed  the  order,  he 
being  in  the  bow  and  I  in  the  stern  of  the  boat,  in  order  to  place 
the  ropes  around  it  to  hoist  it  on  board. 

A  heavy  sea  broke  over  the  ship,  throwing  her  on  her  beam  ends, 
carrying  Harry  and  myself  down  with  the  boat.  Catching  hold  of 
the  davit-falls  I  held  on  and  came  up  when  the  ship  righted,  but 
Harry  went  down  and  the  ship  went  over  him.  Then  was  given  the 
cry  "Man  overboard!"  and  all  hands  gathered  in  the  after  part  of 
the  ship.  Harry  rose  to  the  surface  on  the  weather  beam  very  near 
the  ship.     Hopes  were  thrown  but  did  not  reach  him. 

RESCUING  A   MAN   IN   A   STORM. 

The  captain  exclaimed,  "There  is  the  boat  if  anybody  will  volun- 
teer to  go  after  the  man!"  Without  hesitation  I  stepped  forward 
and  said,  "I  will  go,  who  will  follow  me?"  Four  stalwart  boys  at 
once  stepped  forward.  The  waist  boat  had  been  broken  into  a  thou- 
sand pieces. 

' '  Hoist  and  swing  the  quarter  boat ! ' '  was  the  order.  ' '  Wait  till  I 
teU  when  to  lower, ' '  said  the  captain.  After  three  heavy  seas  had 
passed,  the  captain  gave  the  order,  "Lower  away!"  The  boat  was 
lowered  on  a  run  to  clear  the  ship  as  quickly  as  possible.  I  had  the 
steering  oar. 

Being  clear  of  the  ship  the  boat  was  headed  to  the  windward — the  oars 
out  and  the  men  pv^lling.  We  could  make  little  or  no  headway,  especially 
when  ascending  the  waves,  which  were  running  masthead-high. 

In  a  few  minutes  we  lost  sight  of  the  ship  except  when  she  was  on  the 
crest  of  the  wave. 

After  pulling  some  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  we  saw  Harry  on  the  top  of  a 
wave.  Seeing  our  boat  he  waved  his  hand.  The  men  with  fresh  courage 
gave  way  with  all  their  might.  Harry  swam  like  a  fish  and  in  a  short 
time  we  took  him  into  the  boat. 

Then  began  the  danger  of  returning  to  the  ship.  We  were  obliged 
to  run  before  the  sea,  which  now  and  then  broke  and  roared  like  surf  on 
the  shore.     At  last  we  succeeded  in  running  close  under  the  ship 's  stern. 

The  captain,  through  his  speaking  trumpet,  ordered,  "Eun  under  the 
lea  and  wait  till  I  tell  you  to  pull  aboard !  ' '  This  order  we  obeyed. 
Ten  men  were  stationed  in  the  rigging  with  ropes  to  throw  into  the  boat 
when  we  were  near  enough.  These  ropes  were  bow  lines  and  bights  to 
throw  over  and  haul  us  aboard. 

The  order  ' '  Pull  to  the  ship !  ' '  being  given,  we  obeyed,  and  when  we 
had  approached  near  enough  the  ropes  were  thrown  into  the  boat.  Each 
man  took  a  rope  and  placed  it  under  his  arms.     Without  delay  we  were 


12 

hauled  aboard,  and  no  sooner  were  we  safe  on  deck  than  there  came  a 
tremendous  wave,  throwing  the  ship  on  the  boat  and  crushing  it  to 
jiieces. 

There  was  general  rejoicing  on  board  the  Cicero  at  our  safety,  and 
the  loss  of  the  boat  was  regarded  by  the  captain  as  of  no  importance. 
A  close  and  intimate  friendship  between  my  friend  Harry  and  the 
sailors  who  risked  their  lives  to  save  him  naturally  followed, 

EXPERIENCES   IN   MADAGASCAR. 

Unfortunately  my  journals  were  burned  in  a  fire  at  Kingston,  Massa- 
chusetts, in  1868,  and  therefore  I  cannot  always  state  dates  with  preci- 
sion, but  I  think  that  the  Cicero  reached  Augustine  Bay,  Madagascar, 
in  October,  1833.  This  bay  is  on  the  wesi  coast  of  the  island  and  opens 
into  the  Mozambique  Channel.  It  is  about  four  miles  from  Sand  Island 
at  the  head  of  the  bay. 

The  day  after  we  came  to  anchor  was  the  Sabbath.  I  went  ashore 
with  the  captain  and  we  proceeded  to  the  place  of  Prince  Willie,  the 
chieftain  of  the  native  tribe,  and  were  siirprised  to  find  the  negroes 
gathered  around  an  altar  built  up  with  stone  to  the  height  of  four  feet, 
and  engaged  in  offering  a  sacrifice.  A  young  kid  had  been  killed  and 
placed  on  the  wood  and  a  fire  had  been  kindled  underneath  it.  The 
whole  scene  reminded  me  of  Old  Testament  times. 

The  prince  was  about  fifty  years  old  and  grizzled.  He  wore  a  full 
beard,  was  tall  but  not  corpulent.  His  wife  was  short,  ugly  and  hag- 
gard. Prince  Willie  wore  a  blanket  and  no  headdress.  He  was  at- 
tended by  about  fifty  natives,  who  carried  spears  but  were  otherwise 
unarmed. 

The  prince,  who  ofiiciated  as  priest,  at  first  seemed  too  much  absorbed 
in  his  devotions  to  notice  our  arrival. 

After  he  had  prepared  the  kid  and  made  the  fire,  he  came  forward 
and  kindly  received  us,  saying  to  the  captain: 

"How  do;  you  cap'n'?" 

' '  Yes,  I  am  captain, ' '  was  the  reply. 
"Yaw,  me   glad  see  you.     Me   shake  finger  you,"   said   Prince  Willie, 
who  was  proud  of  his  knowledge  of  English. 

A   BUNCH   OF   THIEVES. 

After  a  brief  delay  we  returned  to  our  boat,  attended  by  the  prince, 
his  wife,  and  twenty  of  his  followers,  and  other  natives  who  followed 
us  in  canoes. 

By  the  time  we  reached  the  ship  at  least  a  hundred  natives  were 
on  deck. 

The  captain  having  invited  Prince  Willie  and  his  wdfe  into  the 
cabin  the  other  natives  at  once  followed  until  the  cabin  was  packed 
and  the  air  became  intolerable. 


13 

After  a  iialf -hour's  talk  the  captain  requested  the  prince  to  order 
his  followers  to  leave  the  cabin.  This  being  done  the  steward  in- 
formed the  captain  that  every  knife  and  fork  and  nearly  every 
article  of  crockery  was  missing. 

The  captain  at  once  informed  the  prince  of  the  theft,  but  as  several 
of  the  canoes  had  already  left  the  ship  and  gone  ashore,  nothing  was 
recovered.  Even  the  grindstone  had  been  stolen  from  the  deck  and 
carried  ashore. 

We  were  compelled  to  place  all  our  tools  under  look  and  key,  and 
to  set  a  watch  on  deck  to  guard  against  the  thieves. 

BUNCOING  A  NEGRO. 

Very  fine  shells  are  found  at  Augustine  Bay.  A  native  brought 
some  of  them  aboard,  and  one  of  our  sailors  sold  him  a  ring  bolt  fast 
in  the  deck  in  exchange.  The  sailor  carried  away  the  shells  into 
the  forecastle,  and  the  native  began  to  pull  out  the  ring  bolt  in  the 
presence  of  the  delighted  crew.  The  native  pulled  and  sweat  and  pulled 
again,  and  finally  demanded  back  his  shells.  The  sailor  declaring 
that  he  knew  nothing  about  the  shells;  the  native  complained  to  the 
captain,  who  ordered  restitution. 

The  negroes  were  crazy  for  liquor.  They  were  ready  to  sell  them- 
selves for  rum;  in  this  respect  they  resembled  some  white  men. 

We  had  a  boat-steerer  who  was  a  rogue  and  fond  of  a  practical 
joke.  Several  natives  being  on  board  ship  one  of  them  said  to  the 
boat-steerer,  "Me  likee  rum." 

A  RED  PEPPER  DRINK. 

The  boat-steerer  thereupon  went  into  the  cabin,  prepared  a  mixture 
of  hot-drops  and  cayenne  pepper,  and  slyly  brought  it  to  the  negro, 
saying,  "Drink,  quick,  cap'n  see!" 

The  native  swallowed  the  whole  dose  instantly,  jumped  his  full 
length  and  fell  on  deck,  his  tongue  stretched  out  its  full  length, 
yelling,  "Too  muchee  Mahomet  deadie  black  man!"  Then  jumping 
on  his  feet  he  found  a  water  melon  rind  and  cooled  his  tongue  for 
an  hour. 

We  remained  at  Augustine  Bay  about  three  weeks.  Prince  Willie's 
tribe  was  engaged  in  war  with  the  natives  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
island.  He  had  a  retreat  on  Sand  Island  at  the  mouth  of  the  bay, 
beyond  the  range   of  gun  shot. 

I  saw  one  of  Prince  Willie's  men,  who  had  been  taken  prisoner, 
whose  arms  and  legs  had  been  chopped  of  by  their  enemies.  He 
was  alive.  These  natives  seared  the  stumps  with  hot  iron  to  prevent 
hemorrhage. 


14 
A  DOSE   OF  LAUDANUM. 

" Captain  Amber"  was  a  sub-chief  of  tlie  tribe  at  Augustine  Bay- 
over  which  Prince  Willie  ruled.  He  was  seven  feet  high  and  weighed 
four  hundred  pounds.  He  was  noted  for  his  drinking  capacity  and  it 
Avas  reported  that  he  had  never  been  made  drunk. 

We  subsequently  learned  that  after  our  departure  from  Augustine 
Bay  Captain  Amber  died  in  consequence  of  a  dram  given  him  by  the 
captain  of  a  New  London  whaler. 

The  New  Londoner  declaring  he  would  "fix  him,"  poured  a  table- 
spoonful  of  laudanum  into  a  glass  of  brandy  and  gave  it  to  Amber 
to  drink. 

On  swallowing  the  same  Captain  Amber  struck  his  breast  and 
shouted  "Bigger — the  brandy!"  The  New  London  captain  induced 
Amber's  men  to  remove  him  in  his  canoe  from  the  ship.  Amber  soon 
became  insensible  and  never  awoke  to  learn  that  he  was  not  "bigger" 
than  the  poison.  When  his  men  saw  their  chief  insensible  they 
started  for  the  shore  crying,  "Too  much  Mahomet!  deader  the  black 
man!  " 

ON  THE  COAST  OP  AFRICA. 

We  sailed  from  Augustine  Bay  to  the  coast  of  Africa.  On  our 
way  the  ship  narrowly  escaped  destruction  by  a  water-spout.  We 
counted  more  than  thirty  water-spouts  at  once. 

We  reached  the  African  coast  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tembo  river, 
latitude  14  degrees  south,  longitude  40  degrees  30  inches  east.  Whales 
had  been  reported  to  come  in  to  the  mouth  of  the  Tembo  to  calve. 
Here   we   anchored. 

The  people  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  were  hostile;  on  the 
south,   friendly. 

The  coasters  from  Mozambique,  a  Portuguese  settlement  about  100 
miles  south,  trading  for  Colombo  root,  often  touched  at  this  point. 
The  country  was  heavily  timbered  and  abounded  with  large  game — 
lions,  tigers  and  panthers.  We  saw  monkeys  and  baboons  without 
number.     One  day  we  saw  perhaps  a  thousand  monkeys  in  one  drove. 

ADVENTURE  WITH  A  LION. 

One  morning  Harry,  another  sailor  and  myself  went  shore  in  a 
whale  boat  to  shoot  guinea  hens,  which  appeared  in  a  little  opening 
in  the  timber  just  above  a  rocky  point  on  the  river. 

Landing  below  the  point  we  walked  along  the  shore,  hoping  to  get 
a  shot  at  the  hens  from  the  rocks  at  the  point.  As  we  rounded  the 
point  and  had  passed  a  large  bowlder,  we  beheld  a  monster  lion 
within  fifty  feet  of  us,  standing  with  his  fore  paws  on  a  rock,  facing 
us.  Seeing  us,  the  lion  gave  a  terrible  roar  and  lashed  his  tail  to 
right  and  left. 


15 

"We  turned  and  ran  for  the  boat.  The  lion  followed  us  to  the  point 
of  rocks  and  there  paused.  He  had  been  lurking  in  the  vicinity  for 
more  than  a  month  and  had  killed  one  native.  I  had  a  shot-gun  but 
my  comrades  were  unarmed. 

TRAPPING   A   LION. 

Afterwards  the  natives  built  a  heavy  log  trap  and  caught  the  lion. 
I  saw  it.  The  logs  were  as  large  as  a  man's  body,  notched  and  bound 
together  with  wythes.  The  trap  was  about  ten  feet  square;  the 
heavy  log  door  was  supported  by  a  figure-four  device  and  the  bait 
was  attached  to  the  end  of  the  horizontal  lever  or  spring  pole.  The 
lion  entered,  and  in  detaching  the  bait,  entrapped  himself.  He  was 
caught  at  night.  The  natives  were  soon  aroused  and  early  in  the 
morning  assembled  with  their  spears  in  hand.  The  roaring  of  the 
lion  as  he  bounded  from  one  side  of  the  trap  to  the  other,  tearing 
pieces  from  the  solid  wood,  was  heard  on  ship  board.  However, 
the  natives  succeeded  in  despatching  the  monster. 

He  was  a  real  man-eater,  one  of  the  largest  of  his  kind;  his  color 
was  yellowish  and  he  had  an  immense  dark  and  shaggy  mane.  The 
natives  kept  the  skin  and  I  presume,  ate  the  flesh. 

We  visited  a  native  settlement  about  five  miles  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Tembo,  where  we  found  about  a  thousand  negroes.  They 
lived  in  huts  made  of  the  limbs  of  trees  and  covered  with  boughs  and 
bark.  The  settlement  had  one  main  street  but  otherwise  the  huts 
were  located  without  order.  These  negroes  strongly  resembled  those 
at  Augustine  Bay. 

ATTACKED  BY  NEGROES. 

While  at  Tembo  Bay,  Harry,  two  other  sailors  and  myself  took  a 
boat  and  rowed  to  the  north  shore  to  gather  shells  on  the  reef  at 
low  tide.  The  shells  were  numerous  and  beautiful.  There  were 
harps,  spotted  cowries  and  many  other  varieties. 

Having  landed,  we  were  walking  along  the  reef  in  search  of  shells, 
about  forty  yards  from  the  boat,  when  the  man  left  with  the  boat 
called  out,  "Come  quick,  the  niggers  are  after  usJ  "  and  sure  enough, 
a  dozen  negroes  armed  with  spears  were  coming  down  upon  us  with 
the  speed  of  race  horses. 

Of  course  we  lost  no  time  in  entering  and  shoving  off  our  boat. 

Fortunately  the  wind  was  blowing  a  strong  breeze  off  shore,  for 
soon  the  negroes  were  upon  us  and  their' spears  were  flying  all  around 
us.  Two  men  lay  down  in  the  bottom  of  the  boat  while  I  took  my 
chances  standing  and  dodging  the  spears.  A  number  of  the  spears 
passed  through  both  sides  of  the  boat  and  more  than  one  came  very 
near  my  head.  AVe  escaped  without  injury  but  did  not  again  visit 
that  locality  for  shells. 


16 
RECRUITING  IN  THE  FEYCHELLE  ARCHIPELAGO. 

From  Tembo  Bay  we  sailed  for  the  island  of  Mahe  in  the  Feychelle 
archipelago,  latitude  four  degrees  and  fifty  minutes  south,  longitude 
55  degrees  30  minutes  east.  This  group  of  islands  formally  belonged 
to  the  French,  but  had  now  fallen  into  possession  of  the  English. 

We  went  to  Mahe  to  recruit— that  is,  to  secure  a  supply  of  fresh 
vegetables  and  give  the  crew  a  chance  to  go  ashore. 

The  principal  business  of  the  inhabitants  of  those  islands  was  the 
manufacture  and  sale  of  aqua  ardiente.  At  the  time  of  our  visit 
slavery  existed  on  these  islands.  The  liquor  made  by  these  people 
was  a  very  powerful  stimulent;  it  at  once  intoxicated  the  drinker 
and  produced  temporary  insanity.  The  inhabitants  were  French, 
English,  and  natives.  The  slaves  did  all  the  work.  The  climate  of 
Mahe  is  perfect. 

These  islands  are  subject  to  trade  winds,  or  monsoons.  The  soil  is 
very  fertile,  pineapples  growing  spontaneously. 

PINEAPPLE   AND   LIQUOR   AT   MAHE. 

A  gunny-sack  of  pineapples,  as  much  as  a  man  can  carry,  was  sold 
by  the  slaves  for  two  cents.  I  have  seen  vast  stretches  of  country 
covered  w-ith  this  delicious  fruit,  yellowish  when  ripe. 

There  were  two  English  whalers  at  Mahe.  The  name  of  one  of 
them  was  Harpoonier.  Drunkenness  and  fighting  was  the  order  of 
the  day  when  the  sailors  were  ashore.  In  fact,  the  chief  business 
of  Mahe  was  liquor-making  and  selling,  and  prostitution. 

CATCHING    TURTLES    AT    ALDABRA. 

From  Mahe  we  sailed  to  Aldabra  Island,  latitude  9  degrees  30 
minutes  south,  46  degrees  30  minutes  east.  This  island  abounds  in 
green  turtles  and  fish.  Here  we  went  ashore.  In  the  night  the  turtles 
came  above  high  water  mark  to  lay  their  eggs.  We  turned  the  turtles 
on  their  backs  and  in  the  morning  took  them  aboard  ship.  These 
turtles  weighed  from  400  to  500  pounds  each.  We  kept  them  alive 
on  deck  for  a  month,  by  throwing  water  on  them. 

Aldabra  was  low — not  more  than  fifteen  feet  above  the  ocean,  and 
of  volcanic  origin. 

CAUGHT  BY  THE  TIDE  IN  A  CAVE. 

There  was  a  lagoon  in  the  center,  and  along  the  shore  were  many 
openings,  or  caves,  which  at  low  tide  you  could  enter,  often  going 
a  hundred  yards  or  more  up  into  the  island.  Harry  and  I,  at  low 
tide,  entered  one  of  these  caves.  Beautiful  shells  of  many  species 
adorned  the  sides.  Before  we  were  aware  of  it  the  tide  rose,  the 
breakers  came  in  over  the  reef  and  we  were  entrapped  in  the  cave;  the 


17 

waves  came  in  with  such  force  that  we  were  driven  back  Into  total 
darkness — and   still  the   tide   rose. 

Slowly  we  groped  our  way  some  fifty  or  seventy-five  yards,  when 
ahead  of  us  we  saw  a  light,  and  continuing  our  way  we  saw  a  hole 
leading  up  through  the  lava  roof  of  the  cave.  But  the  hole  was  not 
large  enough  to  admit  of  our  escape!  Hour  after  hour  we  shouted 
and  holloed  through  this  hole,  at  the  top  of  our  voices. 

Finally,  when  almost  exhausted,  our  shipmates  heard  us,  and  pro- 
curing a  maul  and  axes,  broke  away  the  rock  just  in  time  to  save 
us  from  a  horrible  fate,  for  soon  after  we  emerged  from  the  cave  the 
water  was  forced  by   the   incoming  tide   through  the   place   of   our 

escape. 

A    HURRICANE    IN    THE    INDIAN    OCEAN. 

Having  obtained  a  goodly  supply  of  turtles,  the  Cicero  sailed  south 
in  search  of  whales.  Off  the  Isle  of  Bourbon  we  encountered  a  hur- 
ricane. This  was  a  regular  cyclone.  It  came  on  in  the  night.  There 
had  been  every  indication  of  a  storm  the  day  previous.  The  clouds 
were  heavy  and  leaden.  We  had  no  barometer,  but  everything  was 
made  ready  for  a  heavy  gale. 

At  nine  o'clock  the  following  morning  it  was  blowing  a  furious 
gale  from  the  southeast. 

At  twelve  o'clock  it  suddenly  moderated  nearly  to  a  calm.  The 
sea  was  mountain-high  and  we  carried  no  sail. 

For  a  half  hour  the  calm  continued,  when  the  wind  came  from  the 
southwest,  blowing  with  terrible  fury.  The  seas  coming  from  the 
southeast  and  the  southwest  met  and  broke  over  the  ship,  tossing  it 
like   a   shingle. 

The  captain  was  greatly  frightened.  Our  steward  was  the  only 
religious  man  aboard  our  ship,  and  although  he  had  been  derided  by 
the  captain  for  his  religion,  the  captain  now  called  him  down  into 
the  cabin  and  requested  him  to  pray,  which  the  steward  did  most 
earnestly.  The  ship  shook  like  an  aspen  leaf  and  we  expected  to  go 
down. 

About  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  storm  broke  and  the  next 
morning  we  resumed  our  southerly  course. 

HOW  WHALES  ARE   CAUGHT. 

In  latitude  32  degrees  south  we  fell  in  with  right  whales  and 
captured  several.  Our  method  of  capturing  a  whale  was  this:  two 
men,  one  on  the  foremast,  and  the  other  on  the  mainmast,  were  kept 
on  the  lookout  during  the  day.     They  were  relieved  every  two  hours. 

When  a  whale  is  seen  the  lookout  cries,  "There  she  blows!"  The 
captain  or  officer  on  deck  immediately  responds,  "Where  away?" 
to  which  the  lookout  replies,  "Off  the  lee  bow,"  or  "Ahead,"  as  the 
case  may  be. 


18 

If  the  whale  is  under  the  lea,  the  ship  is  kept  away  until  it  is  a 
mile  distant  from  the  whale,  when  the  boats  are  lowered  and  proceed 
with  caution  to  approach  the  whale  without  being  discovered. 

If  the  whale  comes  up  so  near  the  boat  that  there  is  a  good  prospect 
of  reaching  him  before  he  goes  down,  the  boat  pushes  ahead  with  all 
possible  speed,  frequently  landing  the  bow  of  the  boat  on  the  back 
of  the  whale. 

The  harpooner  stands  ready  in  the  bow  of  the  boat  and  as  soon  as 
possible  plunges  the  harpoon  into  the  side  or  back  of  the  whale. 

When  the  iron  strikes  the  whale  it  instantly  cuts  right  and  left 
with  its  flukes  and  sometimes  smashes  the  boat  in  so  doing. 

From  four  to  six  hundred  fathoms  of  line  are  attached  to  the 
harpoon.     I  have  know  a  whale  to  take  out  six  hundred  fathoms. 

The  next  step  is  to  lance  the  whale.  When  the  lance  is  driven  into 
Ms  lungs  the  whale  spouts  vast  quantities  of  blood. 

POINTS   ABOUT   WHALES. 

I  may  here  state  for  the  information  of  my  younger  readers  that 
the  whale  is  a  warm-blooded  mammal. 

It  is  valuable  for  its  oil  and  bone.  About  1,500  pounds  of  bone  is 
usually  taken  from  the  scalp  of  the  whale.  The  right  whale,  the  kind 
from  which  whale  bone  is  obtained,  found  in  the  northern  seas,  yields 
about  100  barrels  of  oil;  those  found  in  the  south  seas  about  eighty 
barrels. 

The  blubber  is  tried  out  on  deck,  in  large  pots  set  in  brick. 

It  takes  about  thirty  hours  to  dispose  of  a  whale  after  its  capture. 

The  right  whale  feeds  upon  an  insect  smaller  than  a  shrimp  that 
is  found  in  immense  beds  or  schools  in  the  ocean. 

The  right  whale  has  an  immense  tongue,  which,  with  its  append- 
ages, weighs  about  two  tons,  and  is  about  eight  feet  wide  and  about 
twelve  feet  long. 

In  its  head  are  more  than  a  hundred  slabs  of  bone,  ten  inches  wide 
at  the  base  and  running  to  a  point. 

The  inner  edges  of  these  bony  slabs  are  covered  with  hair  which 
serves  as  a  screen  to  catch  the  whale's  food. 

The  bones  are  placed  about  one-fourth  of  one  inch  apart.  The 
right  whale  has  two  spout  holes. 

HOMEWARD   BOUND— VISITING   NAPOLEON'S    GRAVE. 

On  our  way  home  from  the  coast  of  Africa,  we  touched  at  Simons- 
town,  opposite  Cape  Town,  on  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  There  we 
obtained  Irish  potatoes  and  other  vegetables. 

About  ten  days  thereafter  we  touched  at  the  island  of  St.  Helena. 
Harry  and  I  went  ashore  and  visited  Napoleon  Bonaparte 's  grave  at 
Longwood.     There  we  found  on  guard  an  English  sentinel  in  a  red 


19 

coat.  For  twenty-five  cents  apiece  he  allowed  us  to  climb  over  tiie 
iron  fence  and  stand  on  the  granite  slab  that  covered  the  grave.  I 
don't  remember  whether  the  slab  bore  any  inscription.  The  grave 
was  on  the  highland  a  mile  or  more  from  the  ocean. 

The  harbor  of  St.  Helena  is  an  open  roadstead,  and  a  gale  is  seldom 
or  never  known  there.  We  did  not  anchor  but  simply  stood  off  and 
on.     Here  we  procured  some  supplies. 

In  all  my  voyaging  I  never  got  into  a  greater  sink  of  iniquity 
than  St.  Helena  was  at  that  time. 

A  FATAL   STABBING. 

A  few  hours  after  leaving  St.  Helena  my  friend  Harry  was  fatally 
stabbed.  Harry  was  passing  up  the  gangway  when  one  of  the  drunken 
Portuguese  sailors  stabbed  him  in  the  side.  Harry  came  up  from  the 
forecastle  and  called  for  me.  I  was  near.  "I  am  stabbed!"  said 
he.  "We  took  him  into  the  steerage.  We  had  no  doctor  on  board,  but 
we  dressed  his  wound  as  well  as  we  could  and  kept  him  very  quiet — 
but  all  in  vain.  Harry  died  on  the  seventh  day.  I  took  down  from 
his  lips  his  last  messages  to  his  parents  and  sister,  which  I  promised 
to   deliver. 

It  was  supposed  that  Harry  was  mistaken  by  his  murderer  for  a 
Portuguese.  An  investigation  was  had  by  the  captain  with  no  satis- 
factory result.  Both  the  captain  and  the  mate  were  more  or  less 
intoxicated,  but  Harry  and  myself  had  wholly  abstained  from  the  use 
of  liquor  during  the  voyage. 

Mv  friend's  premature  and  violent  death  at  the  hands  of  a  drunken 
assailant  confirmed  me  in  my  resolution  never  to  touch  the  fatal  cup. 
I  was  constantly  with  my  friend  from  the  time  he  was  stabbed  till 
his  death.  My  feelings  in  witnessing  his  suffering  can  better  be 
imagined  than  described. 

Harry's  death  was  lamented  by  all  his  shipmates,  and  the  scene 
when  he  was  buried  was  a  sadder  one  than  I  care  to  witness  again. 
My  feelings  at  the  time  were  so  intense  that  I  believe  it  would  have 
taken  little  more  to  induce  me  to  go  down  to  the  bottom  of  the  ocean 
with  him. 

The  Cicero  reached  New  Bedford  in  March,  having  been  absent 
twenty-one  months.  We  had  secured  about  1,400  barrels  of  oil,  400 
barrels  of  sperm  and  5,000  pounds  of  bone.  My  share  amounted  to 
about  $600.00. 

BREAKING   BAD   NEWS. 

I  had  promised  Harry  to  deliver  his  last  message  to  his  parents 
and  sister.  We  arrived  in  port  in  the  afternoon.  I  went  ashore, 
procured  suitable  clothing  and  the  next  day  proceeded  by  stage  to 
Charleston,  a  suburb  of  Boston,  where  Harry's  parents  resided. 


20 

I  arrived  at  Charleston  at  about  four  o  'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and 
recognized  the  place  from  Harry's  description.  Harry's  father  had 
made  himself  very  -wealthy  in  the  liquor  business  and  had  provided 
his  family  with  a  home  that  betokened  wealth.  The  house  was  a 
erand  brown-stone  edifice,  the  stables  were  on  a  scale  to  correspond, 
and  the  grounds  in  perfect  keeping.  The  whole  appearance  of  the 
place  was  that  of  refinement  and  comfort. 

My  approach  was  first  discovered  by  Harry's  sister,  Angeline,  who, 
mistaking  me  for  her  brother,  cried  out  to  her  mother  "Harry's 
come!"  The  mother,  who  I  remember  as  a  beautiful  lady  with 
dark  hair  and  eyes,  of  medium  stature,  and  graceful  in  her  move- 
ments, at  once  came  to  the  door  and  exclaimed,  "Oh,  my  boy!" 
then  seeing  her  mistake  she  turned  Dale  and  cried,  "Where  is  my 
Harry?"     The  tears  from  my  eyes  told  the  sad  tale. 

The  poor  mother  fainted  and  would  have  fallen  to  the  floor  had  I 
not  caught  her  and  laid  her  on  the  lounge.  The  daughter,  a  beautiful 
girl  of  sixteen,  had  joined  us,  and  did  all  she  could  to  restore  her 
mother  to  consciousness.  The  mother  that  day  did  not  recover  suffi- 
ciently to  converse,  but  on  the  following  day  I  recounted  to  them 
the  details  of  Harry's  death.  The  third  day  I  returned  to  New 
Bedford.  At  the  request  of  Harry 's  relatives  I  returned  to  Charleston 
and  remained  with  them  about  a  week,  or  until  Harry 's  mother  passed 
away.    Her  last  act  was  to  place  her  daughter's  hand  in  mine. 

THE   RESULT   OF   DRINKING. 

The  father  was  drinking  hard  and  came  home  more  or  less  in- 
toxicated. 

Two  years  thereafter,  at  St.  Helena,  I  was  horrified  to  read  in  a 
Boston  paper  that  the  father  in  a  fit  of  delirium  caused  by  excessive 
drinking  to  drown  his  sorrow,  had  stricken  his  daughter  a  blow  which 
had  caused  her  death,  and  that  having  become  conscious  of  his  crime 
he  shot  himself  and  was  found  lying  dead  between  the  graves  of  his 
wife  and  daughter. 

The  receipt  of  this  news,  at  St.  Helena,  near  the  scene  of  Harry's 
untimely  death,  carried  with  it  a  wave  of  feeling  that  I  cannot 
express  with  words,  and  was  a  blow  from  which  I  did  not  recover 
for  years. 

All  these  heart-pangs,  and  all  this  destruction  of  life,  were  the 
direct  fruits  of  liquor-drinking,  and  I  trust  the  reading  of  them  here 
will  serve  as  a  temperance  lesson  which  shall  bear  much  good  fruit. 

A   SECOND   WHALING  VOYAGE. 

I  next  shipped  as  boat-steerer,  on  the  ship  Fenelon,  Captain  John  K.  L. 
Smith,  of  New  Bedford,  bound  for  the  South  Atlantic  on  a  whaling 
voyage.     John  Mackinbur  was  first-mate,  and  Kobert  Smith  (no  rela- 


21 

tion   to   tlie    captain)    second-mate,   both    of   whom   afterwards   com- 
manded  ships. 

Eobert  Smith  was  an  unusually  fine-looking  man,  and  a  good  officer. 
He  was  a  great  whale-man — a  perfect  lion  in  courage  when  about  a 
whale.  At  last  accounts  he  was  still  living  in  or  near  South  Darts- 
mouth,  Massachusetts. 

We  sailed  about  the  first  of  August,  1835.  Captain  Smith  was  a 
fine  navigator,  kind  to  his  crew,  and  one  of  the  best  of  men.  At 
the  same  time  he  was  careful  for  the  interests  of  the  owners. 

Our  company,  all  told,  numbered  thirty-five.  This  voyage  was  com- 
paratively uneventful.  We  touched  at  St.  Catherine,  Brazil,  south 
of  Eio  Janeiro,  and  also  on  the  Isle  of  Grand.  We  were  gone  two 
summers,  and  between  the  seasons  crossed  over  to  St.  Helena.  We 
returned  to  New  Bedford  after  an  absence  of  twenty-two  months 
with  about  2,800  barrels  of  whale  oil  and  250  barrels  sperm. 

DRAGGED  THROUGH  THE  WATER  BY  A  WHALE. 

On  one  occasion,  on  this  voyage,  having  harpooned  a  right  whale 
and  thrown  over  the  coil  of  the  line  from  the  bow  of  the  boat,  the 
whale  struck  the  boat  with  its  flukes,  and  threw  me  overboard  into  the 
coil.  I  caught  hold  of  the  gunwhale  and  jumped  on  board  to  find 
that  the  line  was  fast  around  my  right  leg  below  the  knee.  The 
whale  was  rushing  away  at  great  speed,  and  I  was  instantly  again 
drawn  over  the  gunwhale.  I  caught  hold  of  the  clumsy-cleet  of  the 
boat  with  one  arm,  and  with  the  disengaged  hand  I  drew  from  its 
sheath  in  the  box  of  the  boat  the  knife  always  kept  there  for  cases 
of  emergency.  The  mate  endeavored  to  wrench  the  knife  from  my 
hand,  to  cut  the  rope  between  the  boat  and  where  it  was  fast  about 
my  leg,  but  I  resisted,  as  in  case  the  whale  dove  the  knife  would 
be  my  only  hope  of  life,  as  I  could  then  cut  the  rope  between  me 
and  the  whale. 

For  at  least  a  mile  the  whale  dragged  me  through  the  water  and 
the  boat  behind  me.  To  escape  was  impossible.  The  tension  of  my 
leg  was  terrible.  It  seemed  as  if  it  would  be  torn  from  the  sockets. 
Finally  the  whale  paused  and  came  up  to  breathe;  the  rope  slackened, 
and  with  my  left  foot  I  pushed  the  coil  from  my  leg  and  was  saved. 
My  leg  was  terribly  bruised  and  blackened,  and  I  have  never  fully 
recovered  from  that  terrible  torture. 

In  the  short  space  of  time  that  I  was  being  dragged  through  the 
water  at  a  terrific  speed,  carrying  the  resistance  of  the  boat  with 
my  body,  the  whole  panorama  of  my  life  passed  before  me,  and  I 
saw  parents,  brothers  and  sisters  and  other  departed  love  ones  as 
never  before.     I  lived  over  years  in  those  few  moments. 


22 
HOW   HARDSHIP   REFORMED    A    GAMBLER. 

One  of  our  men  was  Morris,  the  son  of  a  New  York  millionaire. 
The  final  act  of  dissipation  which  exhausted  his  father's  patience  was 
gambling  away  a  fine  span  of  horses  and  a  carriage.  Morris  was 
accordingly  shipped  for  the  voyage  on  the  Penelon  as  a  common  sailor, 
and  was  brought  on  board  by  the  shipping  agent,  Morris  being  in- 
toxicated.     Upon   entering  the   forecastle,   he   inquired,   "Where   the 

d 1  do  you  set  the  table?"     He  was  of  little  or  no  use  aboard 

the  ship  except  to  pitch  the  pieces  of  blubber  from  the  hatchway, 
to  the  mincing  tub. 

At  Saint  Catharine  he  persuaded  the  captain  to  release  and  send 
him  home,  assuring  the  captain  that  if  his  father  knew  what  kind 
of  a  life  the  sailor  led  he  would  pay  the  captain  $10,000  for  the 
release. 

The  Captain  told  Morris  that  he  did  not  want  the  $10,000,  but  he 
sent  him  to  New  York  at  the  first  opportunity. 

Afterwards  William  Hempstead,  one  of  the  crew  of  the  Fenelon, 
saw  Morris  in  New  York  City  finely  dressed,  assisting  ladies  to  enter 
a  carriage. 

"Horses-pieces,  Morris!"  shouted  Hempstead.  Morris  turned,  and 
recognizing  his  old  shipmate  caught  him  by  the  hand  and  took  him 
in  the  carriage  up  town  to  his  father's  residence,  where  he  enter- 
tained him  royally  for  a  week. 

The  voyage  on  the  Fenelon  from  New  Bedford  to  Saint  Catharine 
had  cured  Morris  of  drinking  and  gambling. 

MOST  REMARKABLE  FALL  ON  RECORD. 

While  there  was  no  calamity .  attending  this  voyage,  there  were 
many  incidents  that  perhaps  have  some  interest.  "Daddy  Batts" 
was  an  old  sailor,  and  a  droll  character,  honest  and  pleasant  withal. 
One  day  he  fell  from  the  mast-head,  a  distance  of  about  ninety  feet, 
and,  strange  enough,  struck  and  went  entirely  through  a  whale  boat 
on  the  cranes  and  into  the  water.  "Daddy"  was  somewhat  scratched 
and  bruised,  but  was  not  seriously  injured.  The  boat  was  in  the 
worse  condition  of  the  two. 

When  he  fell  I  was  in  my  berth,  but  not  asleep.  The  man  at  the 
wheel  cried  out,  ' '  Man  overboard ! ' '  and  put  the  helm  hard  a  lea.  I 
rushed  on  deck  and  hoisted  one  end  of  the  boat  and  swung  the  crane 
ready  for  lowering  before  the  others  arrived  to  assist.  We  lost  no 
time  in  lowering  away  the  boat,  but  still  "Daddy"  was  picked  up 
about  two  hundred  yards  from  the  ship.  I  never  expected  to  see  him 
alive,  after  such  an  adventure. 

He  was  dressed  in  thick,  heavy  boots  and  monkey  jacket,  and 
when  we  picked  him  up  he  was  about  exhausted.     By  way  of   ex- 


23 

plaining  how  he  could  fall  from  the  mast-head  and  go  overboard,  it 
must  be  remembered  that  a  ship  sailing  by  the  wind  heels  over  so 
as  to  bring  the  mast-head  in  a  perpendicular  line  over  the  side  of 
the  ship.  "Daddy"  never  heard  the  last  of  being  equal  to  a  whale 
in  staving  in  a  boat. 

AN  INSANE  MAN  CUEED   BY   A   BATH. 

During  this  same  voyage  one  of  the  sailors,  an  American  boy,  be- 
came insane.  One  morning  he  came  up  from  the  forecastle,  dressed 
simply  with  shirt  and  overalls;  he  had  a  wild,  hunted  look,  which  I 
observed.  Going  at  once  to  the  side  of  the  ship  he  mounted  the 
railing,  and  giving  an  unearthly  shriek — such  a  yell  as  only  a  crazy 
person  could  make — he  plunged  into  the  ocean,  head  first.  When  he 
came  up  he  stuck  out  for  the  ship,  swimming  like  a  fish.  We  lowered 
a  boat  and  took  him  aboard.  The  strange  part  of  this  adventure  is 
that  the  shock  of  the  plunge  into  the  water  restored  the  man's  mind. 
He  was  all  right  after  his  bath. 

A  PINEAPPLE  PATCH  EPISODE. 

The  vicinity  of  St.  Catherine  was  a  great  fruit-producing  section. 
The  oranges  were  something  grand.  Pineapples  were  plentiful.  Some 
of  us  had  been  ten  months  on  shiji-board,  and  were  glad  of  an  oppor- 
tunity to  go  ashore.  One  day  we  discovered  a  magnificent-looking 
pineapple  grove,  or  patch,  and  although  the  fruit  was  not  ripe,  a 
party  of  about  five  of  us  from  the  ship  were  examining  the  fruit  and 
admiring  it. 

While  we  were  thus  engaged  a  Portuguese  came  running  towards  us, 
brandishing  a  club,  and  yelling  in  his  native  tongue,  "Get  out  of 
here  you  dogs!"  We  merely  laughed  at  the  old  man  as  he  came  up, 
and  although  several  of  us  could  talk  a  little  Portuguese  we  pre- 
tended not  to  understand  him.  "No  sabe, "  said  one.  "Que  care?" 
said  another. 

By  standing  our  ground  we  got  the  old  man  in  a  good  humor,  and 
he  finally  invited  us  up  to  the  house.  He  had  several  daughters — 
young  ladies  between  fifteen  and  twenty  years  of  age,  who  were 
engaged  in  making  artificial  flowers — and  they  brought  out  their 
guitars  and  banjos  and  gave  us  a  fandango. 

We  had  a  good  time  there,  notwithstanding  our  reception  in  the 
pineapple  patch. 

A  SLAVE  WHIPPED  TO  DEATH. 

While  lying  at  Saint  Catharine's,  on  my  second  voyage,  on  the 
Fenelon,  I  went  with  the  captain  about  ten  miles  to  the  port  of  entry. 
As  we  landed  we  saw  a  crowd  on  the  plaza,  and  as  we  passed  saw 
that  they  were  binding  a  negro  slave  over  a  gun. 


24 

We  paused  a  while  and  learned  that  the  slave  had  been  sentenced 
to  receive  a  hundred  lashes  for  stealing  a  head  of  tobacco.  The 
whipping  began,  but  the  scene  was  too  horrible  to  witness  and  we 
soon  left.  We  were  subsequently  informed  that  the  miserable  victim 
did  not  survive  the  terrible  ordeal. 

THE    THIRD    VOYAGE— ON    THE    SHIP    "FENELON." 

August  1st,  1837,  I  again  sailed  on  the  Fenelon,  as  second  mate. 
She  was  an  old-fashioned  ship,  a  dull  sailor  but  a  good  sea  boat.  Our 
destination  was  the  South  Atlantic  and  Brazil  Banks. 

We  were  absent  nine  and  one-half  months,  taking  2,500  barrels  of 
oil.  It  was  a  successful  and  for  me  an  interesting  voyage,  for  I  had 
never  before  headed  a  watch  or  a  boat, 

A  boat's  crew  consists  of  six  men — one  officer,  the  harpooner,  the 
steerer  and  four  oarsmen. 

When  on  whaling  ground  there  are  three  watches — the  first,  the  mid- 
dle, and  the  morning  watch,  each  of  four  hours.  The  first  watch  is 
set  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning.  When  the  captain  is  not  on  deck 
the  head  of  the  watch  is  in  command. 

A   TERRIFIC   TEMPEST. 

On  my  last  voyage  I  had  devoted  particular  attention  to  navigation. 
I  kept  near  me  a  copy  of  ' '  Bodwitch  's  Navigator, ' '  and  became  fami- 
liar with  its  use,  so  that  when  I  shipped  as  second  mate  I  could  navi- 
gate the  ship. 

On  this  voyage  we  encountered  a  most  terrific  tempest  northeast 
from  the  West  Indian  Islands,  in  what  are  known  as  the  "Horse 
Latitudes."  It  was  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning.  The  captain 
and  mate  went  below  and  left  me  in  charge  of  the  deck.  The  sky  was 
black  with  clouds.  The  rain  was  falling  in  torrents.  The  thunder 
peals  were  continuous.  Shafts  of  lightning  fell  in  all  directions; 
one  struck  the  head  of  the  main-mast,  shattering  it,  and  came  out 
just  above  the  eyes  of  the  rigging;  thence  it  struck  the  deck.  Balls 
of  fire  rolled  about  the  deck  and  knocked  down  several  men.  I  was 
standing  on  the  ship's  rail  opposite  the  starboard  boat,  and  fell  into 
it,  partially  paralyzed,  but  did  not  lose  consciousness.  After  four 
hours  the  storm  subsided  and  we  resumed  our  south-easterly  course, 
crossing  the  equator  and  reaching  the  whaling  ground  without  note- 
worthy incident. 

GELETT  CAPTURES   HIS  FIRST  WHALE. 

The  captain  had  taken  four  whales  and  the  mate  one  before  I  was 
allowed  to  lower  the  waist-boat,  which  I  commanded.  But  one  day 
when  they  were  pursuing  a  whale  about  two  miles  distant,  off  the  lea 
beam,  I,  being  at  the  mast-head,  saw  a  whale  off  the  weather  beam. 


25 

Lowering  my  boat  I  succeeded  in  harpooning  him.  When  the  captain 
and  mate  returned  unsuccessful  to  the  ship  the  former  saw  that  the 
waist  boat  was  missing  and  was  told  that  I  was  up  on  the  weather 
beam  towing  a  whale.  Captain  Smith  was  much  pleased  and  thence- 
forth I  had  an  equal  chance  with  the  others,  and  when  we  left  the 
ground  I  had  captured  eleven,  the  mate  five,  and  the  captain  eleven 
whales.  One  of  mine  was  a  sperm,  caught  on  the  main  banks  off  the 
coast  of  Brazil. 

One  afternoon,  it  being  my  watch  below,  I  heard  the  lookout  cry, 
"There  she  blows!"  I  at  once  went  aloft  and  reached  the  mast-head 
just  in  time  to  see  the  whale  turn  out  his  flukes  and  go  down.  At 
once  the  boats  were  lowered.  Running  about  a  mile  to  the  leeward 
I  saw  the  "slick"  where  the  whale  sank. 

The  "slick"  on  the  surface  of  the  water  is  caused  by  the  oil  that 
exudes  from  the  whale.  Its  location  is  often  indicated  by  the  stormy 
petrels,  or  "Mother  Gary's  chickens,"  that  follow  the  wake  of  the 
whale  and  feed  on  the  oil. 

CHARGED   BY   A   WHALE. 

The  oblique  direction  of  the  whale's  flukes  as  he  disappeared  satis- 
fied me  that  he  was  not  on  his  camping  ground,  but  was  making  a 
passage,  and  having  calculated  where  probably  he  would  reappear, 
I  ran  my  boat  about  two  miles  from  the  point  where  I  had  left  the 
other  boats,  when  to  my  delight  the  whale  rose  about  fifty  yards 
ahead  of  my  boat.  With  our  paddles  and  sail  we  were  soon  up  with 
him  and  he  was  pierced  with  two  harpoons.  Then  with  his  flukes 
he  lifted  the  boat  nearly  clear  of  the  water,  causing  her  to  leak  badly. 

As  the  whale  stopped  I  pulled  up  to  lance  him,  when,  before  I  was 
near  enough  to  lance  him,  he  suddenly  turned  and  furiously  charged 
on  the  boat,  snapping  his  twelve-foot  jaw  and  breaking  two  oars 
as  he  passed  us.  I  had  now  only  three  oars,  and  as  my  boat  leaked 
badly  I  resolved  to  keep  it  at  a  respectful  distance  from  the  whale 
until  the  arrival  of  the  other  two  boats. 

The  captain  boldly  approached  and  lanced  the  whale,  which  began 
to  spout  blood.  The  whale  proved  to  be  a  large  hundred-barrel  bull 
and  a  warrior.  The  captain  lost  two  oars  and  his  boat  was  shattered, 
but  he  kept  afloat. 

My  experience  proves  that  the  safest  method  of  attacking  the  whale 
is  the  boldest — that  is,  approach  him  at  full  speed,  and  if  possible 
land  on  his  back. 

MYSTERIOUS   DISAPREARAXCE   OF    AN    ISLAND. 

The  season  was  late  and  the  whales  having  left  their  usual  feeding 
grounds,  we  steered  southerly  for  an  island  shown  on  our  chart  to  be 
located  in  south  latitude,  hoping  to  find  whales  in  its   vicinity.     To 


26 

our  surprise,  on  reaching  this  place  we  found  no  island,  but  large 
masses  of  dead  trees,  limbs  and  leaves  floating  on  the  surface  of  the 
sea.  For  two  hours  we  sailed  through  this  debris  of  the  lost  island, 
which  had  disappeared  in  a  submarine  convulsion.  Thence  we  sailed 
to  the  main  bank  off  the  coast  of  Bolivia,  where  we  captured  our  last 
whale  and  thereupon  put  away  for  New  Bedford. 

FOURTH    VOYAGE— AS   FIRST    MATE. 

About  the  middle  of  July,  1838,  I  shipped  for  my  fourth  voyage  as 
first  mate  of  the  ship  India,  with  Captain  Wilmot  Luce,  of  New 
Bedford. 

The  India  was  a  vessel  of  about  350  tons,  and  her  complement  was 
about  thirty-four  men,  all  told. 

Captain  Luce  was  unpopular  and  could  not  easily  find  a  mate.  For 
two  successive  voyages  his  mates  had  been  brought  home  "off  duty." 
Finally  the  owners  and  captain  insisted  so  strongly  that  I  consented 
to  go.     The  captain  owned  one-quarter  of  the  ship. 

A  CRUISE  TO  DELAGOA  BAY. 

We  visited  the  South  Atlantic  and  Delagoa  Bay,  and  were  very 
successful.  A  number  of  ships  were  cruising  off  Delagoa  Bay.  This 
bay  is  on  the  African  side  of  the  Mozambique  Channel.  It  was  dis- 
covered by  Vasco  de  Gama,  the  celebrated  Portuguese  navigator,  in 
1498.  The  shores  are  heavily  timbered  and  the  bay  is  a  commo- 
dious and  a  safe  harbor.  In  1838  and  1839  the  port  of  Mozambique 
was  a  Portuguese  settlement  where  a  considerable  trade  in  ivory 
and  Colombo  root  was  carried  on. 

Scuttlefield  Shoads,  a  reef  forming  a  crescent-shaped  harbor  of 
Delagoa  Bay,  extend  along  the  shore  about  ten  miles  from  near  Point 
St.  Mary's,  leaving  a  narrow  passage-way  into  the  harbor  at  the 
north  end  of  the  reef.  The  coast  thence  runs  east,  northeast,  for  150 
to  200  miles.    There  gales  from  the  south  often  arise  very  suddenly. 

STORM  BOUND  ON  A  HOSTILE  COAST. 

While  the  India  was  anchored  in  Delagoa  Bay  we  had  a  noteworthy 
adventure.  It  was  usually  calm  in  the  morning  and  we  often  left  the 
ship  and  rowed  down  the  coast,  looking  for  whales.  Once  we  were 
caught  down  the  coast  about  fifteen  miles  in  one  of  these  gales.  Our 
company  consisted  of  a  boat's-crew  from  each  of  four  ships.  The 
wind  blew  so  heavily  on  shore  that  it  was  impossible  to  return  to 
the  ships. 

Night  came  on  and  our  only  alternative  was  to  effect  a  landing. 
The  natives  were  hostile,  and  it  was  with  much  hesitation  that  we 
determined  to  turn  our  boats  into  the  surf. 

After  a  long  consultation  between  the  officers  of  the  boats  of  the 


27 

different  ships  it  was  finally  decided  to  make  the  trial.  Two  of  the 
ship's  captains  were  present,  but  Captain  Luce  was  not.  Two  boats 
safely  landed;  the  other  two  boats  not  taking  so  favorable  an  oppor- 
tunity were  swamped  in  the  breakers.  By  the  assistance  of  those  on 
shore,  the  men,  being  good  swimmers,  were  saved  and  the  boats  were 
hauled  up  on  the  beach  and  placed  on  their  sides,  so  as  to  form  a 
barricade  for  our  defense.  We  then  so  rigged  our  harpoons  and  lances 
that  they  pointed  outwards  all  around. 

SURROUNDED    BY    HOSTILE    SAVAGES. 

Soon  after  our  landing  the  negroes  began  to  gather  on  the  beach 
within  speaking  distance  of  us.  They  were  naked,  armed  with  spears, 
and  made  much  noise  chattering  and  jabbering.  We  attempted  to  en- 
gage them  in  friendly  intercourse  by  sending  a  man  with  a  white  flag. 
He  had  taken  but  a  few  steps  outside  our  enclosure  when  more  than 
a  hundred  natives  sprang  to  their  feet  and  aimed  their  spears  at  him. 

Seeing  that  to  advance  was  death,  the  man  with  the  flag  of  truce 
at  once  retreated.  Then  after  much  deliberation,  we  resolved  to 
make  everything  secure  for  the  night.  The  natives  continued  to  as- 
semble, and  when  night  came  they  probably  numbered  between  five 
hundred  and  a  thousand  fighting  men,  and  made  a  semi-circle  around 
us,  cutting  off  every  way  of  escape. 

Soon  after  dark  fires  were  kindled  by  the  negroes  and  kept  up  by 
them  all  night.  The  gale  at  daybreak,  had  not  in  the  least  abated, 
and  there  seemed  no  chance  of  our  escape. 

Another  attempt  to  communicate  with  the  natives  by  means  of  a 
white  flag  was  made  and  again  failed.  We  numbered  twenty-four 
men,  but  had  no  firearms.  All  we  could  do  was  to  be  quiet  and  wait. 
Men  who  never  prayed  before  were 

ON  THEIR  KNEES  PRAYING  FOR  HELP! 

All  that  (tay  and  all  the  following  night  we  waited  and  watched, 
expecting  to  be  assaulted  and  knowing  that  in  such  a  case  death 
would  be  inevitable. 

On  the  second  morning  the  multitude  of  savages  had  inrceased  to 
probably  two  thousand.  Fortunately  we  had  with  us  hard  bread  and 
water. 

It  rained  during  the  night.  About  midnight  the  gale  began  to  sub- 
side, and  by  morning  it  was  nearly  calm.  As  soon  as  the  daylight  was 
sufiicient  we  began  to  launch  our  boats. 

Each  boat  was  headed  into  the  breakers  ready  to  be  shoved  off, 
and  while  the  guard  stood  behind  with  lances  making  a  show  of 
defense,  when  all  was  ready  the  word  was  given,  ' '  Shove  off,  altogeth- 
er! "  and  we  all  started  at  the  same  time  and  succeeded  in  clearing 
the  breakers  without  accident. 


28 

As  we  pushed  off  the  natives  set  up  a  great  howl  and  rushed  down 
to  the  water's  edge — but  no  spears  were  1;hrown.  Once  clear  of  the 
shore  we  made  our  way  to  the  ships  as  soon  as  possible. 

The  savages  probably  supposed  we  had  firearms,  of  which  the  coast 
tribes  were  then  much  afraid. 

On  more  than  one  occasion,  seeing  natives  on  the  shore,  I  have 
aimed  a  waif -pole  at  them,  which,  observing,  they  at  once  retreated 
into   the  forest. 

The  natives  at  this  point  were  filthy  beyond  description,  living  on 
the  putrid  flesh  of  whales,  and  eating  snakes,  worms  and  other  equally 
repulsive  food. 

^N  AFRICAN  TEST  OP  LOYALTY. 

From  Delagoa  we  sailed  to  Augustine  Bay,  Madagascar.  Here  we 
found  the  natives  much  as  we  had  left  them  on  our  previous  voyage. 
They  were  glad  to  see  us. 

One  chief,  called  Captain  Jack  Stubbs,  came  on  board  and  endeavor- 
ed to  tell  Captain  Luce,  in  broken  English,  how  he  had  longed  to  see 
him. 

''How  muchee  sorry  me  was,"  said  he. 

"Me  go  walkee  in  the  woods  and  plenty  cry  belong  to  you!" 
Meaning  that  he  had  walked  in  the  woods  and  cried  to  see  Captain 
Luce  again. 

After  a  long  palaver  Captain  Stubbs  concluded  his  affecting  ora- 
tion by  requesting  brandy  and  bread. 

Prince  Willie  and  wife  were  both  blind  in  one  eye.  Before  becom- 
ing king  and  queen  each  was  compelled  to  submit  to  the  loss  of  an 
eye  as  a  test  of  loyalty.  To  accomplish  this  a  red-hot  needle  was 
thrust  into  one  of  the  eyes. 

A  SOUTH  ATLANTIC  GALE. 

Leaving  Augustine  Bay  we  rounded  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and 
cruised  to  the  South  Atlantic  until  we  filled  our  ship  with  oil. 

When  near  the  gulf  stream  on  our  return  voyage  the  weather  be- 
came threatening,  and  one  moriiing  at  about  11  o'clock  the  clouds 
gathered  about  us  and  it  was  so  dark  that  we  were  obliged  to  place 
a  light  in  the  binnacle  to  see  to  steer. 

Our  ship  was  made  ready;  the  sails  were  furled  and  we  were  pre- 
pared for  any  emergency.  At  noon  the  gale  came  down  on  us  from 
the  north,  with  hailstones  as  large  as  hens'  eggs,  driving  every  man 
from  the  deck.  Some  received  scalp  wounds  and  all  were  more  or 
less  pelted  and  bruised  by  the  hailstones.  The  storm  lasted  about 
two  hours.  We  were  then  about  one  hundred  miles  from  the  Ber- 
muda Islands. 

In  March,  1840,  we  reached  New  Bedford,  without  the  loss  of  a 


29 

man,  and  were  cordially  -welcomed,  especially  by  the  family  of  Cap- 
tain Luce.  Our  voyage  vras  A'ery  successful,  yielding  the  owners 
large  profit,  as  well  as  a  generous  compensation  for  the  officers  and 
crew. 

FIFTH  VOYAGE— MASTER  OF  THE  SHIP  "INDIA." 

Soon  after  our  return  to  Xew  Bedford,  I  vras  requested  to  take 
command  of  the  ship  India  for  a  voyage  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The 
India  was  thereupon  repaired,  put  in  prime  order  and  fitted  for  a 
two-years'  cruise.  David  Chadwiek,  of  South  Dartmouth,  in  all 
respects  a  first-class  officer,  was  my  first  mate. 

Our  complement  was  thirty-six  men  all  told.  I  was  now  twenty- 
seven  years  of  age,  in  perfect  health,  and,  I  believe,  the  youngest  ship 
captain  then  sailing  from  Xew  Bedford. 

"We  sailed  on  the  -ith  day  of  August,  18-iO,  and  before  reaching 
Fayal  captured  two  eighty-barrel  sperm  whales,  I  shipped  the  oil 
home  from  Fayal,  much  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  owners  of  the  India. 

From  Fayal  we  proceeded  to  the  Cape  de  Verde  Islands.  Thence 
we  crossed  the  equator  and  steered  on  our  course  for  Cape  Horn. 

A  GIANT  KANAKA   STOAT  AWAY. 

Soon  after  leaving  Xew  Bedford  we  found  on  board  a  stowaway — 
a  Kanaka,  or  a  native  of  the  Sandwich  Islands — the  most  powerful 
man  I  ever  saw. 

One  day  three  men  vainly  endeavored  to  move  an  anchor.  The 
Kanaka  pushed  them  away  and  took  up  the  flukes  of  the  anchor  with 
apparent  ease. 

He  had  little  to  say  to  the  crew,  and  when  we  were  in  latitude  3 
degrees  south  one  moonlight  evening,  his  watch  on  deck  being  out, 
instead  of  going  below  with  the  rest  of  the  men  as  he  should  have 
done,  he  placed  himself  in  the  bow  boat,  which  was  no  unusual  thing 
for  men  to  do.  One  of  the  men  on  deck  came  along  to  the  bow  boat 
and  said  to  the  Kanaka: 

''Joe,  why  don't  you  go  below?" 

A  DESPERATE  HAND  TO  HAND  FIGHT. 

He  immediately  rose  up   and   with   a  spade   struck   at   the  man's 

neck. 

The  man  dodged  and  the  spade  struck  his  shoulder,  cutting  a  ter- 
rible gash. 

The  sailor  was  bleeding  fearfully  and  I  took  him  down  into  the 
cabin  and  began  to  dress  the  wound.  The  mate  at  the  same  time 
loaded  his  pistol  and  climbed  up  on  one  of  the  boats  overhead. 

Meanwhile  the  crew  had  all  come  aft  on  the  quarter-deck. 

About  this  time  the  Kanaka  jumped  out  of  the  bow  boat  with  the 


30 

spade,  and  rushed  at  the  men  gathered  on  the  quarter-deck.  ^  Some 
of  the  men  fled  into  the  rigging  and  others  down  into  the  cabin. 

As  the  Kanaka  came  aft  the  third  mate  on  the  boat  fired  at  him, 
the  ball  taking  effect  in  the  hand  and  cutting  the  inside  of  the  fiugers. 
This  caused  the  Kanaka  to  slacken  his  pace  and  gave  the  men  time 
to  escape. 

The  Kanaka  then  leaving  the  spade  on  the  main  hatch  came  aft 
with  a  lance. 

A  NAKROW  ESCAPE  FROM  DEATH. 

At  the  time  of  the  rush  I  foolishly  jumped  up  the  cabin  gangway. 
As  my  head  appeared,  the  Kanaka  hurled  the  lance  at  me.  The  lance 
struck  the  corner  post  near  my  head  .^nd  buried  its  head  in  the  solid 
oak. 

I  then  retreated  to  the  cabin.  The  Kanaka  came  and  ran  the  lance 
down  the  cabin  gang-way.     It  was  a  bright  full-moonlight  night. 

The  mate  having  loaded  his  gun  I  told  him  to  be  ready  to  jump  on 
deck  whenever  I  gave  the  word.  I  then  sprang  into  the  gang-way, 
caught  hold  of  the  lance  just  above  its  head,  and  bent  up  the  shank. 

My  mate  and  a  number  of  the  men  then  sprang  on  deck.  The  Ka- 
naka retreated  to  the  main  hatch,  where  he  had  left  the  spade.  As 
he  seized  the  spade  the  mate  passed  him,  and  turning  took  aim  and 
attempted  to  shoot  tim;  but  his  gun  missed  fire. 

Then  with  all  vengeance  the  Kanaka  ran  upon  the  mate  with  the 
spade.  The  mate  raised  his  gun  to  parry  the  blow.  The  spade  caught 
the  stock  of  the  gun  splitting  off  about  one-half  of  it,  and  passed  by 
the  mate's  side,  cutting  a  deep  gash  in  his  hip. 

At  this  moment  I  came  up  behind  and  clasped  the  Kanaka  around 
the  neck.  He  at  once  raised  the  spade  to  cut  behind  him.  At  the 
same  instant  the  mate  lowered  his  head,  ran  under  the  Kanaka  and 
threw  him  on  his  face.  I  fell  on  his  back.  We  struggled  fearfully 
to  hold  him  down. 

NAKED  LUNATIC  GREASED  WITH  SLUSH. 

He  was  stark  naked  and  had  greased  himself  all  over  from  the 
cook's  slush  barrel.     We  held  him  by  his  long  hair. 

Finally  I  noticed  that  he  had  fainted,  and  turning  him  over,  we 
saw  a  puddle  of  blood  on  the  deck  and  found  he  had  fallen  on  the 
spade,  cutting  a  gash  four  inches  long  across  the  abdomen. 

As  soon  as  I  discovered  that  the  Kanaka  was  wounded,  I  put  a 
bandage  around  him  and  we  took  him  down  the  fore-hatch,  between 
decks,  and  fixed  for  him  a  bed.  I  set  a  watch  of  two  men  with 
loaded  muskets  over  the  hatch-way. 

As  soon  as  we  laid  him  in  the  hold  he  tore  off  the  bandages  and 
said  he  did  not  want  to  live;  that  he  would  die  contented  if  he  had 


31 

only  killed  some  of  us;  that  he  had  killed  his  father  and  escaped 
from  prison  in  the  Island  of  Maui,  (as  we  afterward  learned),  one  of 
the  Hawaiian  Islands,  whence  he  had  swum  off  to  a  ship  bound  for 
New  Bedford. 

The  next  morning  I  again  dressed  his  wound,  but  he  again  tore  off 
the  bandage. 

On  the  seventh  day  the  Kanaka  died.  We  sewed  up  his  body  in 
canvas  and  launched  it  overboard,  after  having  read  a  burial  service 
over  him.  The  wounded  sailor  was  laid  up  about  two  months,  but 
the  mate  recovered  in  two  weeks. 

ANOTHER  CRAZY  HAWAIIAN  ON  BOARD. 

We  had  another  Kanaka  on  board,  a  boat-steerer.  He  very  soon 
showed  signs  of  insanity. 

We  watched  him  closely  and  the  day  after  the  burial  of  his  ship- 
mate the  officers  told  me  that  he  had  put  on  his  best  suit  of  clothes. 
I  knew  in  a  moment  that  he  intended  to  jump  overboard. 

I  gave  orders  to  post  two  men  at  the  steerage  gang-way  to  watch 
him.  He  soon  came  on  deck  and  made  a  rush  for  the  side  of  the 
ship,  when  he  was  prevented  from  carrying  into  effect  his  suicide 
purpose. 

He  then  became  furious  and  we  were  obliged  to  handcuff  him.  We 
were  now  about  sixty  days  from  New  Bedford.  We  kept  the  Kanaka 
confined  several  days  until  we  spoke  a  New  London  ship. 

The  captain  came  on  board,  and  having  heard  my  account  of  what 
happened,  and  the  Kanaka  begging  hard  to  go  aboard  the  New  Lon- 
don ship,  the  captain  consented  to  take  him  and  let  me  have  another 
man  in  his  place. 

The  New  London  ship  touched  at  Saint  Catharine's,  on  the  coast 
of  Brazil.  Soon  after  that  the  Kanaka  ran  away  into  the  forest  and 
became  a  wild  man. 

He  was  afterwards  found  dead  on  the  shore,  and  was  supposed  to 
have  drowned  himself. 

A  CALL  AT  THE  GALAPAGOS  ISLANDS. 

After  doubling  Cape  Horn  we  touched  at  the  Galapagos  Islands,  on 
the  equator,  off  Panama. 

The  name  Galapagos  signifies  "tortoise,"  for  which  this  group  of 
island  are  famous. 

The  Ecuadorians  have  a  penal  colony  on  these  islands.  Here  we 
obtained  a  quantity  of  terrapin.  They  live  on  the  island,  one  or  two 
thousand  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  ocean.  Many  of  them  weighed 
from  200  to  300  pounds.  One  bore  two  dates  carved  on  the  shell — 
1810  and  1816.  One  large  turtle  bore  the  name  of  a  Nantucket  ship, 
and  a  date. 


32 
A   CRUISE   TO   HAWAII   AND   THE    NORTHWEST    COAST. 

Having  cruised  about  a  week  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Galapagos  Is- 
lands, and  having  captured  several  sperm  whales,  we  sailed  for  the 
Sandwich  Islands  and  arrived  at  Maui  about  the  first  of  April.  There 
we  took  on  board  a  supply  of  sweet  and  Irish  potatoes  and  other  vege- 
tables for  a  six-months'  cruise  on  the  northwest  coast  of  North 
America. 

The  northern  whale  is  so  different  from  the  southern  that  we  were 
obliged  to  learn  how  to  capture  it.     It  is  larger  and  more  active. 

Our  cruising  ground  was  between  the  Queen  Charlotte  Islands  and 
Kodiack  Island.  "We  took  2,000  barrels  of  oil  and  30,000  pounds  of 
bone. 

We  captured  five  whales  that  had  been  so  much  milked  by  their 
calves  that  they  had  no  oil  except  in  their  lips. 

CHARACTERISTICS  OF  THE  NORTHERN  WHALE. 

The  lip  of  a  whale  weighs  about  1,000  pounds.  The  throat,  tongue 
and  lips  weigh  about  seven  tons. 

This  part  of  the  whale,  and  especially  the  lips,  seem  to  be  cut  off 
from  the  general  circulation  of  the  body,  and  have  oil  when  the  main 
part  of  the  body  is  impoverished. 

One  of  these  whales  measured  one  hundred  feet  in  length.  Several 
of  our  boats  were  knocked  into  pieces,  and  we  soon  learned  to  ap- 
proach the  northern  whale  with  caution. 

My  mate  harpooned  one  whale  that  stove  his  boat  into  splinters. 
I  was  near  him  and  got  hold  of  the  line. 

By  the  time  I  had  fixed  the  turn  around  the  logger  head,  the  whale 
had  taken  out  nearly  all  the  line.  He  continued  to  run  to  the  wind- 
ward against  the  sharp  sea.  It  was  a  long  time  before  I  got  the 
line  in  so  that  I  could  work  on  the  whale. 

I  finally  struck  the  muscles  of  the  fluke  with  the  spade. 

The  whale  then  sank  about  twenty  fathoms  with  great  speed,  and 
suddenly  stopped.  The  line  being  slack  we  hauled  it  in,  keeping  a 
good  lookout,  as  I  knew  he  was  coming  back  to  the  boat. 

A  FIGHT  WITH   A   NORTHERN  WHALE. 

We  soon  saw  his  old  white  bonnet  coming  up  at  an  angle  of  45 
degrees  for  the  boat  at  a  furious  speed. 

As  soon  as  he  came  within  reach  of  my  lance  I  pricked  his  head, 
which  caused  him  to  turn  it  aside  from  the  boat,  and  as  he  passed 
I  shoved  my  lance  into  him  abreast  of  the  lungs. 

He  suddenly  stopped  as  if  he  were  shot,  threw  his  head  off  from  the 
boat  and  his  flukes  came  directly  under  the  boat,  lifting  it  some 
six  or  eight  feet  out  of  the  water. 

The  whale  slightly  turning  his  flukes  the  boat  slid  off.     Had  I  not 


33 

lanced  him  as  lie  passed  he  would  probably  have  staved  the  boat  to 
splinters  and  I  should  not  be  here  to  tell  the  story,  for  there  was  not 
a  boat  within  three  miles  of  us,  and  the  fog  was  growing  very  thick. 

The  mate  having  lost  sight  of  our  boat  followed  the  "slick"  or 
wake  of  the  whale,  came  up  to  us  between  nine  and  ten  o  'clock  in 
the  evening,  and  made  fast  to  the  whale,  which  had  turned  fin  out. 

The  fin  of  a  full-grown  whale  is  from  six  to  eight  feet  in  length. 
When  he  is  dying  he  lashes  the  ocean  fearfully  and  when  his  struggles 
cease  and  he  rolls  on  his  side,  the  fin  becomes  rigid.  When  he  is 
dead  the  muscles  relax,  the  fin  drops  and  rises  and  falls  with  the 
water. 

MAKES   ACQUAINTANCE    OF   HONOLULU    MISSIONARIES. 

The  season  closed  the  last  of  September,  1841,  when  we  returned 
to  Honolulu,  whence  I  shipped  home  oil  and  bone.  Here  we  fitted  for 
another  season. 

While  at  Honolulu  I  became  acquainted  with  the  missionaries  who 
were  laboring  under  the  auspices  of  the  American  Board  of  Foreign 
Missions.     My  acquaintance  with  them  began  in  this  way: 

On  my  first  voyage  in  the  India,  I  took  Mrs.  Chamberlain  and  her 
children  from  Lahaina,  Island  of  Maui,  to  Honolulu.  I  was  much  in- 
terested in  her  youngest  child,  a  beautiful  girl,  about  three  years  of 
age,  with  dark  eyes,  and  hair  flowing  in  heavy  curls  over  her  shoulders. 

Soon  after  I  was  invited  to  tea  at  Mrs.  Chamberlain's,  where  I 
met  Mr.  Chamberlain,   and  other  missionaries. 

I  had  been  prejudiced  against  the  missionaries  by  unfavorable  re- 
ports circulated  by  sea-faring  men;  but  their  kind  attentions  and 
Christian  sympathy  won  my  confidence  in  their  integrity  and  unsel- 
fish devotion  to  the  cause  of  Christ. 

Years  thereafter  I  was  present  at  the  wedding  of  my  little  friend. 

I  shall  ever  be  grateful  for  their  many  favors  to  me  and  mine. 

DINED  WITH  KING  KAMEHAMEHA  III. 

Honolulu  was  the  chief  port  and  capital  of  the  Sandwich  Islands. 
Whaling  vessels  were  continually  arriving  and  departing,  and  the 
natives  were  kind  and  friendly. 

King  Kamehameha  III  invited  the  captains  to  dine  with  him  one 
evening  in  the  fall  of  1841. 

I  attended  the  dinner  and  I  remember  that  the  palace  was  a 
wooden  structure  and  the  grounds  were  enclosed  by  a  wall.  The 
building  was  large  and  commodious. 

Thirty  of  us,  including  the  king,  his  prime  minister,  and  other 
friends,  were  present. 

English  was  spoken  at  the  table.  The  food  was  excellent  and  well- 
cooked. 


34 

All  kinds  of  potables — wines,  brandies  and  other  liquors  were  serv- 
ed. I  had  not  used  intoxicating  liquors  for  many  years,  and  on  this 
occasion  I  declined  to  partake  of  the  same. 

The  king  was  dressed  as  a  citizen,  in  black,  and  seemed  to  be  a 
young  man  about  thirty-five  years  of  age.  He  was  a  voluble  talker 
and  his  glass  was  often  filled. 

Speeches  were  made,  songs  were  sung,  and  ere  the  dinner  was 
ended  not  a  few  of  the  guests  lay  under  the  table. 

Prime  Minister  Young,  a  native  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  was  the 
son  of  a  foreigner  and  a  native  woman.  He  was  a  gentleman  of 
splendid  physique  and  culture. 

Our  dinner  began  at  7  p.  m.  and  continued  four  hours.  When  I 
retired  at  11  p.  m.  the  king  and  prime  minister  were  still  at  the  table. 

On  the  Sabbath  I  attended  divine  services  at  the  Seaman's  Chapel. 
All  my  officers  and  men  who  desired  to  attend  the  service  had  per- 
mission to  do  so.  The  minister,  Eev.  S.  C.  Damon,  who  had  been 
sent  to  Honolulu  by  the  American  Seaman's  Friend's  Society,  was  a 
very  excellent  man.  He  visited  the  ship  and  looked  after  the  inter- 
ests of  the  sailors. 

TO   THE  WHALING   GROUNDS   AGAIN. 

We  sailed  from  Honolulu  in  the  fall  of  1841.  Going  to  the  equator 
we  steered  westerly  to  longitude  160  degrees;  thence  going  north  we 
touched  the  Ladrone  Islands,  where  we  took  on  supplies  for  our 
voyage  north.  Eeturning  to  our  old  cruising  ground  on  the  north- 
west coast,  we  filled  our  ship  with  oil  and  bone,  and  returned  to 
the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  we  recruited  for  our  home  voyage. 

As  we  were  weighing  anchor  to  depart  a  man-of-war  from  Masset 
Land  anchored  near  us,  lowered  a  boat,  and  sent  an  officer  aboard 
my  ship  who  delivered  to  me 

A  LETTER  ONLY  FORTY  DAYS  FROM  BOSTON, 

(in  those  days  a  most  unusual  thing).  The  letter  was  from  my 
betrothed  wife,  and  I  regarded  it  as  a  favorable  omen  for  the  home- 
ward voyage. 

Leaving  Honolulu  we  encountered  adverse  winds  and  squalls  until 
we  reached  latitude  22  degrees  south. 

Having  crossed  the  equator  at  160  degrees  west  longitude,  we 
met   strong  southeast   trade   winds   and   squally   weather. 

We  sighted  the  Samoan  Islands,  passing  about  twenty  miles  east 
of  them.  In  the  month  of  December  the  weather  was  so  dark  and 
squally  for  many  days  we  had  failed  to  take  any  observations. 

AN  UNEXPECTED  ISLAND. 

According  to  my  dead  reckoning  we  were  near  a  sunken  reef,  laid 
down  on  my  chart  as  having  been  seen  by  an  English  man-of-war  in 


35 

about  1790,  and  subsequently  searched  for  by  another  English  war 
vessel,   and   not   found. 

Thinking  the  reef  did  not  exist,  I  concluded  to  keep  on  my  course 
through  the  night,  though  according  to  my  reckoning  we  should 
pass  over  or  near  the  reef.     The  weather  was  dark  and  stormy. 

As  usual  I  went  to  bed  between  eight  and  nine  o'clock  and  fell 
asleep,  having  charged  the  officer  of  the  deck  to  keep  a  good  lookout 
for  danger. 

At  about  ten  o'clock  I  found  myself  sitting  up  in  my  berth  with 

THE   WORDS    "TACK    SHIP"    RINGING   IN    MY   EARS. 

Without  hesitation  I  rang  the  bell  and  ordered  the  officer  on  deck 
to  put  the  ship  about,  not  telling  him  the  reason  for  my  order.  I 
ordered  the  officer  on  deck  to  lay  the  head  sails  back. 

At  three  o'clock  the  next  morning  I  dressed  and  went  on  deck. 
As  the  wind  had  somewhat  abated  I  put  all  sail  on  the  ship,  steering 
on  our  course.  Soon  after,  holding  my  head  under  the  lea  of  the 
ship's  rail,  I  heard  the  unmistakable 

ROAR  OF  THE  BREAKERS  ON  THE  REEF! 

I  immediately  wore  ship  and  again  laid  the  head  sails  aback.  There 
we  lay  until  daylight  at  about  five  o'clock  in  the  morning,  when  we 
discovered  the  reef  in  the  shape  of  a  horse-shoe,  into  which  we  had 
been  heading,  not  a  mile  distant. 

Keeping  the  ship  away  we  ran  to  the  leeward  of  the  reef.  No 
land  was  seen  except  a  small  spot  of  sand,  visible  as  the  breakers 
receded. 

The  voice  had  saved  us  from  destruction,  and  I  believe  it  to  have 
been  a  merciful  interposition   of   Providence   in   our  behalf. 

On  my  return  to  the  States  I  reported  this  reef  as  still  existing, 
and  it  is  now  noted  on  the  English  charts  as  Haran's  Eeef,  seen  in 
1842.  On  the  old  charts  it  was  noted  as  seen  by  a  man-of-war  in 
1790. 

This  reef  is  in  169  degrees  west  longitude  and  latitude  21  degrees 
40  minutes  south,  and  is  very  dangerous. 

Our  voyage  from  this  point  to  Cape  Horn  was  rough,  with  strong 
westerly   gales   and  heavy   squalls. 

Much  of  the  time  I  was  scudding  before  the  wind  and  carrying  all 
the  sail  the  ship  would  bear  to  run  her  away  from  the  sea. 

One  very  squally  morning  I  observed  the  barometer  drop  suddenly. 
Going  on  deck  I  discovered  in  the  west  a  very  black  cloud,  looking 
like  a  water  spout. 

We  at  once  clewed  down  our  main-top  sail,  just  in  time,  for 


36 

THE   SQUALL   STRUCK  THE   SHIP, 

taking  my  old  pet  hen  off  the  deck  over  the  fore-yard.  I  have  not 
seen  her  since. 

The  ship  settled  down,  planks  sheer  to  the  water.  The  squall 
lasted  about  fifteen  minutes,  and  then  the  wind  subsided  to  the 
usual  gale. 

During  five  days  the  cook  was  unable  to  keep  a  fire  in  his  galley, 
owing  to  the  water  on  deck. 

During  this  part  of  the  homeward  voyage,  in  running  over  from 
New  Zealand  to  Cape  Horn,  for  a  distance  of  about  2,000  miles,  I 
was  unable  to  take  a  single  observation  on  account  of  the  bad 
weather. 

SHIP  ON  HER  BEAM  ENDS. 

Once  the  ship  broached  to,  and  lay  for  some  minutes  on  her  beam- 
ends  before   righting. 

We  lay  to  some  hours,  till  about  8  o'clock  in  the  morning;  but 
home  was  ahead  of  us  and  we  were  anxious  to  be  on  our  way,  so 
the  ship  was  again  kept  away  on  her  course  for  Cape  Horn.  In  the 
afternoon  the  wind  abated,  and  there  came  in  a  thick  fog. 

The  weather  finally  did  clear  off  during  the  night,  and  taking  a 
lunar  observation  I  found  myself  in  the  longitude  of  Cape  Horn, 
and  about  thirty  miles  south  of  the  Cape. 

A  LONG,   LOW,   SNAKISH-LOOKING   CRAFT. 

After  passing  Cape  Horn,  in  latitude  about  30  degrees  south,  in 
the  night  a  vessel  was  discovered  on  our  weather  beam,  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  distant.  She  bore  down  upon  us,  running  across 
the  stern  of  our  ship,  and  luffed  to  under  our  lea  within  hailing  dis- 
tance, but  no  words  were  exchanged.  She  was  a  long,  low,  snakish- 
looking  craft.  She  shortened  sail  and  remained  near  us  until  day- 
light, when  she  bore  away  for  another  vessel  under  our  lea. 

I  always  believed  this  vessel  to  be  a  Mexican  man-of-war,  as  the 
United  States  was  at  that  time  involved  in  war  with  Mexico. 

I  had  made  all  preparations,  in  case  the  vessel  proved  to  be  a 
pirate,  to  defend   ourselves  from  the  boarding   attack. 

We  had  no  large  guns,  so  of  course  we  had  no  means  of  returning 
a  long-range  attack,  but  we  would  have  brought  into  play  our  skill 
with  lances  and  harpoons  in  case  of  a  hand-to-hand  conflict. 

I  had  on  board  3,000  barrels  of  oil  and  40,000  pounds  of  bone.  I 
had  previously  shipped  home  30,000  pounds  of  bone. 

We  rounded  Cape  Horn  and  steering  to  the  north,  crossed  the 
equator  on  the  15th  day  of  January,  1842. 

When  in  latitude  24  degrees  north,  the  so-called  "Horse  Latitudes," 
the  weather  being  mild,  we  painted  the  ship.     The  day  was  fine,  but 


37 

that  evening  we  saw  flashes  of  lightning,  on  the  northeast,  which 
betokened  foul  weather.  Our  running  rigging  was  all  stopped  to  the 
standing  rigging,  so  as  to  be  out  of  the  way  of  the  painting,  and 
we  were  ill  prepared  for  a  squall. 

A  SUCCESSION   OF   STORMS. 

At  10  p.  m.  I  ordered  the  rigging  to  be  taken  down  to  where  it 
belonged,  to   the   belaying   pins. 

The  clouds  grew  thicker  and  there  was  every  indication  of  a  strong 
wind  from  the  northeast. 

I  ordered  the  ship  to  be  put  under  double-reefed  top-sails,  as  the 
weather  had  assumed  a  very  threatening  aspect.  At  midnight  the 
gale  came  down  upon  us  with  fury;  we  steered  on  our  course,  how- 
ever, to  the  northwest,  the  seas  frequently  breaking  over  the  ship. 

We  were  now  south  of  the  Burmudas,  near  the  Tropic  of  Cancer. 

When  near  the  Gulf  Stream  we  encountered  a  very  heavy  north- 
west gale  which  lasted  three  days  and  nights. 

The  gale  moderating,  we  resumed  our  course,  striking  the  Gulf 
Stream   in   longitude    69    degrees    west. 

When  near  the  northern  edge  of  the  Gulf  Stream  we  met  another 
gale  from  the  northwest. 

When  north  of  the  Gulf  Stream  the  weather  was  very  cold.  This 
gale  also  lasted  three  days  blowing  the  ship  back  across  the  Gulf 
Stream.  The  ice  melted  from  the  ship.  We  then  met  a  heavy  south- 
east gale  which  run  us  in  back  of  Long  Island,  when  again  we  were 
struck  by  a  northwest  gale  and  intensely  cold  weather. 

Again  the  ship  became  covered  with  ice,  so  much  so  that  I  was 
obliged  to  run  off  into  the  Gulf  Stream  to  get  clear  of  it.  After 
which  we  took  a  gale  from  the  southeast  with  a  tremendous  sea  that 
broke  over  our  ship,  washing  away  all  the  boats  and  everything  on 
deck,  even  to  the  cook's  galley. 

The  wind  finally  changed  to  the  southwest  when  we  steered  on 
our  course,  determined  to  make  a  port. 

The  gale  continued,  gradually  veering  to  the  west,  but  so  great 
was  my  anxiety  to  get  into  port  that  I  declared  that  I  would  not 
take  in  sail.  First  went  the  jib-boom,  then  the  cross-jack-yard  was 
carried  away,  and  the  main-yard  badly  sprung.  But  this  we  did  not 
heed,  for  the  cry:    "Land,  Ho!"  was  heard  ahead. 

We  stood  in  back  of  Long  Island  and  made  Easthampton,  and 
shaped  our  course  for  Montauk  Point. 

MANOEUVERING  IN  THE  DARK. 

At  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  saw  a  ship  take  a  pilot  from 
a  pilot  boat. 


38 

Just  as  the  sun  set,  much  to  our  chagrin,  we  saw  the  pilot  boat 
put  away,  to  make  a  harbor  as  we  supposed,  to  Tarpaulin  CovCj  to- 
gether  with   the    ship. 

At  eight  o'clock  that  night  we  ran  under  the  lea  of  Block  Island, 
the  wind  blowing  a  gale  from  the  northwest. 

Eeefing  our  top-sails  we  shaped  our  course  toward  Martha's  Vine- 
yard, and  at  three  o  'clock  in  the  morning  were  in  the  mouth  of  the 
Vineyard   sound,  between  Montauk   and   Cuttyhunk   Light. 

"We  had  on  board  ship  a  large  cannon  and  began  firing  for  a  pilot. 
The  wind  now  came  out  from  the  northeast,  and  it  began  to  snow. 
For  three  hours  we  lay  with  the  main-top-sail  to  the  mast  and  the 
deep  sea  lead  on  the  bottom  to  ascertain  in  which  direction  we  were 
drifting,  firing  our  cannon  every  fifteen  minutes.  Without  my  knowl- 
edge the  boys  were  putting  in  two  cartridges  instead  of  one,  and 
ramming  in  slush  from  the  cook's  barrel. 

Until  seven  o'clock  the  ship  had  drifted  only  the  length  of  the 
deep  sea  lead  line,  for  the  reason  that  the  wind  was  opposed  to  the 
current. 

At  eight  o'clock  the  ship  began  rapidly  to  drift  and  as  no  light 
or  land  had  been  seen  for  the  last  five  hours,  I  knew  we  must  be  very 
near  No  Man's  Land,  and  gave  the  order,  "Wear  ship!" 

As  the  ship  was  going  round  we  heard  a  man  hello,  and  immediately 
brought  the  ship  to  the  wind  with  the  head  sails  back. 

A  pilot  boat  soon  emerged  from  the  blinding  snow,  and  Captain 
Flanders,  the  Vineyard  pilot,  came  alongside  and  aboard.  If  ever 
I  was  glad  to  see  man  it  was  Flanders.  He  at  once  gave  the  order, 
"Wear  ship,"  as  we  were  near  a  reef,  as  I  had  feared. 

Captain  Flanders  informed  me  that  we  would  have  to  make  a 
harbor  on   Tarpaulin   Cove.     I  said: 

"Captain  Flanders,  New  Bedford,  beef,  pork,  flour,  hardbread, 
cordage,  small  stores,  and  whatever  you  wish,  but  Tarpaulin  Cove, 
not  a   smitch!  " 

Captain  Flanders  answered,  "It  is  New  Bedford." 

MAKING  NEW  BEDFORD   IN  A   SNOW   STORM. 

Before  night  we  entered  Buzzard's  Bay-  Owing  to  the  snow  storm 
the  lights  were  not  visible,  and  the  pilot  was  obliged  to  depend  upon 
sounding.     I  went  below  for  much  needed  rest. 

At  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  the  ship  mis-stayed.  There  not 
being  room  to  wear  around,  the  anchor  was  let  go  immediately,  the 
sails  were  furled  and  all  hands  sent  below.  At  this  time  I  came  ou 
deck   and   took   charce. 

At  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning  all  hands  were  called  up  and  the 
ship  got  under  way.     No  land  was  seen  on  account  of  the  storm. 

At  noon  we  sighted  Clark's  Point  Lisrht,  off  New  Bedford  harbor, 


39 

and  at  one  o  'clock  we  came  to  anchor  within  two  miles  of  New 
Bedford. 

Up  to  this  time  we  had  seen  only  the  Light  House.  The  snow  fell 
so  thick  and  fast  we  could  not  see  the  city,  and  as  all  our  boats  had 
been  washed  away,  we  could  not  land,  but  we  kept  our  cannon 
booming,  much  to  the  astonishment  of  the  people  on  shore. 

At  three  p.  m.  a  Vineyard  packet  boat,  bound  in,  hove  in  sight. 
Being  hailed,  he  kindly  came  alongside  and  took  myself  and  others 
ashore.     The  harbor  for  a  mile  down  the  river  was  closed  with  ice. 

On  landing  at  the  so-called  "Smoking  Eocks"  we  met  a  large  party 
awaiting   our   arrival. 

My  agent,  Capt.  Abram  H.  Howland,  was  one  of  the  number.  As 
we  landed  he  rushed  forward  and  grasped  my  hand,  exclaiming, 
"Gelett,  I  knew  'twas  you!  No  other  in  the  fleet  would  venture 
in  in  such   weather  as  this!" 

Delivering  the  ship's  papers  to  Captain  Howland,  I  procured  a 
new,  warm  suit  of  clothes,  hired  a  span  of  gay  horses  attached  to  a. 
light  buggy,  and  drove  them  thirty  miles  in  three  hours  facing  the 
northeast  snow-storm  to  Kingston,  where  I  was  welcomed  by  my 
intended   wife   and  her  mother. 

For  ten  months  they  had  had  no  word  of  me,  since  all  news  must 
come  around  Cape  Horn,  and  their  surprise  and  delight  at  my  arrival 
may  be  imagined.     This  was  St.  Valentine's  Day,  1843. 

SAFE  HOME  AND  WRECKED  IN  A  SLEIGH. 

Some  of  my  land  experiences  have  been  vividly  carried  in  my  mind, 
without  the  aid  of  a  "log." 

The  next  morning  after  arriving  at  Kingston  from  my  long  voyage 
as  captain  of  the  "India,"  I  wanted  to  do  the  proper  thing  and  so 
arranged  to  take  my  intended  wife  out  for  a  sleigh  ride. 

Kingston  at  that  time  was  a  small  place,  and  did  not  support  a 
livery-stable.  Undaunted,  I  borrowed  a  cutter,  or  sleigh,  of  a  neigh- 
bor, and  hitched  to  it  one  of  the  spirited  horses  I  had  driven  from. 
New  Bedford.  Now,  the  horse  was  young  and  strong,  and  the  sleigh 
was  old  enough  to  be  laid  gently  in  the  wood-box — but  it  was  that 
or  nothing. 

We  had  been  out  but  a  few  minutes  when  calamity  overtook  us. 
It  had  been  snowing  for  three  days,  and  the  ground  was  covered  with 
a  deep  mantle. 

In  attempting  to  turn  around,  one  of  the  runners  bent  under  the 
sleigh  and  we  went  down  with  a  crash. 

The  horse  raised  objections  and  his  heels  at  the  same  time,  and  at 
the  first  objection  the  dash-board  was  converted  into  kindling. 

It  was  likely  to  get  unpleasant  there,  and  without  much  ceremony 
I  grabbed  my  girl  and  got  to  another  part  of  the  road  as  quickly  as 


40 

possible.  There  wasn't  mucli  left  of  the  sleigh  when  the  horse  got 
through  with  it. 

Some  men  were  attracted  to  the  spot,  and  to  them  I  turned  over 
the  task  of  clearing  away  the  wreck  and  bringing  home  the  horse, 
while  we  who  had  started  out  to  have  a  jolly  sleigh  ride,  accom- 
panied by  jingling  bells  and  the  other  delights  we  so  often  read 
about,  waded  homeward  through  the  deep  snow. 

It  is  a  mere  matter  of  education,  but  I  have  found  it  easier  to 
manage  a  ship  in  a  storm  than  to  engineer  a  horse  and  sleigh  in  a 
deep  carpet  of  snow. 

MORE  TROUBLE  IN  STEERING  A  SLEIGH. 

I  didn't  feel  disposed  to  give  up  the  sleigh-riding  business  so  easily, 
and  sent  my  two  horses  down  to  Plymouth,  about  four  miles  from 
Kingston,  and  had  them  hitched  to  a  two-seated  sleigh. 

Some  half  dozen  of  us  getting  in  the  sleigh,  I  again  took  the  wheel 
— or  lines — and  we  got  to  Plymouth  in  good  style. 

"We  were  out  to  see  the  historical  sights,  and  the  first  stopping 
place  was  Pilgrim's  Hall.  They  had  been  shovelling  the  snow  from 
the  walk  into  the  street,  and  had  made  quite  a  mound  near  the 
gutter.  I  saw  this  diminutive  hill,  but  supposing  the  sleigh  runners 
would  cut  through  it,  I  attempted  to  drive  up  with  a  dash.  But  I 
had  miscalculated.  The  hill  of  snow  had  frozen  so  hard  that  it  would 
not  yield  to  the  runner,  which  was  compelled  to  run  up  over  it.  This 
tipped  the  sleigh  on  its  side,  without  much  ado,  and  myself  and 
invited  guests  were  thrown  out  sprawling  upon  the  sidewalk.  We 
were  landed  pilgrims,  sure   enough. 

We  soon  recovered  our  feet  and  our  composure,  and  made  a  visit 
to  the  interior  of  the  hall,  where  behind  a  railing,  are  shown  many 
interesting   relics. 

There  is  Governor  Carver's  chair,  an  ancient  spinning  wheel.  Elder 
Brewster's  chair,  the  sword,  boiling  pot,  and  pewter  platter  of  Miles 
Standish,  and  the  cradle  of  Peregrine  White.  This  cradle  was  for 
years  in  the  possession  of  Captain  James  Sever,  an  uncle  of  Mrs. 
Gelett,  but  was  finally  added  to  the  other  relics. 

Among  other  interesting  exhibits  in  the  hall  are  two  large  paint- 
ings, about  ten  by  twelve  or  fourteen  feet,  one  of  the  "Landing  of 
the  Pilgrims,"  and  the  other  the  "Departure  from  Delft  Haven." 

MARRIAGE   AND  WEDDING  TOUR. 

On  the  14th  day  of  March,  1843,  just  one  month  from  the  date 
of  my  arrival  in  Kingston,  I  was  married  to  Miss  Jane  Russell,  in 
Kingston,  Mass.,  by  Eev.  Joseph  Peckman,  who  afterward  was  mar- 
ried to  my  wife 's  sister,  Mary  H.  Russell,  who  was  bridesmaid  at  my 
wedding.     Mr.  Peckman  has  passed  away,  but  his  wife  is  still  living, 


41 

she  and  my  wife  being  the  only  survivors  of  a  family  of  eleven 
children. 

My  wife  and  I  went  on  a  wedding  tour  to  Saratoga,  Niagara  Falls, 
the  Great  Lakes,  the  Thousand  Islands,  and  Montreal,  which  in  those 
days  was  recognized  as  a  remarkable  excursion. 

On  our  return  to  Kingston,  I  bought  a  two-story  house  of  my  wife 's 
aunt,  Mrs.  Parris,  about  a  block  from  where  my  mother-in-law  lived. 
Mr.  Russel,  my  wife's  father,  died  when  she  was  about  three  years 

old. 

FURNISHING  A   NEW   HOME. 

We  furnished  the  house  complete,  and  I  recollect  that  there  was 
much  new  experience  and  no  little  sport  about  it.  Business  houses 
in  those  days  were  not  as  well  stocked  or  systematic  as  now.  For 
instance,  it  was  not  possible  to  give  the  measurement  of  a  room  and 
have  the  dealer  return  a  carpet  sewed  and  ready  to  put  down — or 
better  still,  have  him  attend  to  the  entire  matter. 

"We  bought  a  roll  of  carpet,  and  cut  and  fitted  and  sewed  it  our- 
selves. Everybody  knew  best  about  how  it  should  be  done,  and  so 
the  work  was  almost  never-ending.  But  differences  were  compromised 
and  the  house  was  finally  furnished. 

I  had  enjoyed  about  six  months  of  home  life,  when  I  again  went 
to  sea,  leaving  my  wife  in  the  new  home  I  had  provided  for  her,  and 
surrounded  by  relatives  and  friends. 

GELETT'S   SIXTH  VOYAGE   AS  MASTER  OF  THE   SHIP   "UNCAS." 
The  India  having  been  sent  away  soon  after  my  arrival,  another 
ship,   the   Uncas,   was   bought   for   me    by   the   company   owning   the 
India,  and  new  officers  and  crew  were  shipped  for  the  voyage. 

On  the  fifteenth  of  August,  1843,  we  sailed  for  the  North  Pacific 
Ocean.  On  this  voyage  I  circumnavigated  the  globe,  rounding  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  returning  by  Cape  Horn. 

In  the  Indian  Ocean  I  fell  in  with  Captain  Barker,  of  New  Bedford, 
an  old  shipmate.  I  spoke  him  in  a  gale  of  wind,  while  on  our  way 
from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  to  Van  Dieman's  Land. 

MEETING   A    CHRISTIAN    CAPTAIN    IN    THE    INDIAN    OCEAN. 

Captain  Barker  and  myself  had  been  friends  for  years,  and  were 
about  the  same  age.  He  came  aboard  and  dined  with  me,  and,  to  my 
surprise,  requested  permission  to  ask  the  blessing  at  the  table,  to 
which  I  consented.  This  was  followed  by  a  conversation  between 
us,  wherein  he  informed  me  that  a  number  of  captains  of  his  ac- 
quaintance had  reformed  their  lives,  and  that  he  had  united  with 
a  Christian  Church  at  New  Bedford. 

The  news  deeply  impressed  me,  and  having  had  pious  parents  I 
began  to  reflect  upon  my  obligations  to  myself  and  the  men  under 
my   command. 


42 

FISHING    AKD    HOT    SPRINGS    AT    ST.    PAUL'S    ISLAND. 

We  touched  at  St.  Paul's  Island,  latitude  36  degrees  42  minutes 
south,  longitude  77  degrees  50  minutes  east,  landed  and  caught  a 
boat-load  of  fish,  which  were  so  plenty  that  they  bit  the  bare  hook. 
There  were  fish  of  different  species — some  large  and  dark,  and  of 
the  finest  quality  for  food. 

Saint  Paul  Island  is  about  three  miles  in  length.  It  is  of  volcanic 
origin,  and  has  no  trees  or  shrubbery.  On  the  east  side  a  hot  spring 
of  fresh  water  boils  up  just  below  high  water  mark.  We  put  fish  in 
a  bag  and  boiled  them  in  the  spring  as  quickly  as  if  they  were  in  a 
pot  over  a  fire. 

The  soil  of  the  island  is  too  warm  for  vegetation.  The  hand  can 
hardly  be  held  in  it  two  feet  below  the  surface. 

On   the   east   side   are   large   beds   of   kelp   growing   in    fifty   feet   of 

water.     Here  we  caught  our  fish. 

My  chart  of  Bass  Strait,  published  by  Commodore  Stokes  in  1843, 
quotes  from  the  report  of  Mr.  Parish  of  the  voyage  of  the  ship  Lion, 
1793,   as  follows: 

"This  singular  spot  is  of  volcanic  origin,  and  its  fires,  still  active, 
may  be  seen  from  a  great  distance.  It  has  several  craters,  but  the 
principal  one  is  on  the  eastern  side.  Natural  cause-ways  form  its 
entrance,  and  a  connecting  bar  has  nine  feet  of  water  over  it  at 
high  tide.  At  the  watering  place  marked  w,  the  temperature  of  the 
water  was  112  degrees.  At  some  distance  more  to  the  west  the  heat 
of  the  mud  was  found  to  be  212  degrees.  In  the  crater  fish  abound, 
and  may  be  boiled  in  the  hot  spring  on  the  shore." 

The  depth  of  the  water  in  the  crater  varies  from  17  to  26  fathoms. 
The  bluffs  are  about  700  feet  high.  We  arrived  at  St.  Paul  Island 
in  the  morning,  and  had  the  volcano  been  active  we  should  have  seen 
it.     The  day  and  following  night  were   fair. 

ACROSS    THE    PACIFIC    TO    TAHITI. 

From  St.  Paul  Island  we  passed  in  sight  of  Van  Dieman's  Land, 
whence  we  steered  for  the  south  point  of  New  Zealand,  passing  be- 
tween it  and  "The  Traps,"  a  reef  about  forty  miles  south  of  the 
point.  When  we  passed  through,  the  night  was  dark,  and  the  wind 
blew  a  heavy  gale.  Not  having  seen  sun,  moon  nor  star  for  three 
days,  I  was  somewhat  anxious  for  our  safety. 

On  the  third  day  we  made  Chatham  Island,  south  latitude  44% 
degrees,  longitude  176%  degrees  west,  which  we  sighted  in  a  thick 
fog,  having  passed  it  at  only  a  few  ships'  lengths  from  the  south 
point. 

From  Chatham  Island  we  sailed  for  Tahiti.  Here  I  anchored,  went 
ashore  and  placed  a  sick  sailor  in  the  hospital,  leaving  money  suffi- 
cient to  pay  his  passage  home  in  case  of  his  recovery.     He  was  a 


43 

native  of  Fayal,  one  of  the  Azores.  His  moaning  for  Ms  mother  was 
pitiful.  He  did  not  die  as  he  expected  to,  but  recovered  and  was 
sent  home.  On  a  subsequent  voyage  my  ship  touched  at  Fayal,  and 
his  mother  came  aboard  and  embraced  and  thanked  me  for  my  kind- 
ness to  her  son.     Her  gratitude  was  unbounded. 

THREE  WEEKS  AT  LAHAINA. 

We  arrived  at  the  Sandwich  Islands  about  the  middle  of  April, 
1844,  and  anchored  in  the  port  of  Lahaina^  Island  of  Maui,  where 
we  lay  some  three  weeks.  There  were  at  that  time  some  thirty 
whale  ships  in  this  harbor.  They  were  from  New  Bedford,  Sag 
Harbor,  Stonington,  and  Nantucket.  I  frequently  enjoyed  pleasant 
meetings  with  old  friends  and  acquaintances. 

On  one  occasion  my  third  mate  having  made  ashore  the  acquain- 
tance of  a  liquor  dealer,  sought  to  introduce  him  to  me.  I  was 
greatly  annoyed  and  rebuked  the  officer  in  severe  terms  in  the  pres- 
ence of  twenty  other  ship-masters. 

RIDING  A  RUNAWAY  HORSE. 

One  day  more  then  twenty  of  us  ship-masters  together  rode  horse- 
back along  the  beach.  The  natives  hired  us  horses  ready-saddled 
for  a  dollar  each. 

It  so  happened  that  I  was  the  last  comer,  and  was  obliged  to  take 
a  large  spotted  gelding  that  no  one  else  would  ride,  for  his  reputation 
was  bad,  and  well-deserved,  will  be  seen.  The  saddle  was  English, 
and  I  was  no  sooner  in  it  than  the  horse  was  off  on  a  dead  run  up 
the  coast.  My  feet  were  in  the  stirrups,  but  I  could  not  control  the 
horse  with  the  bit.  He  bore  me  whither  he  would.  All  the  captains 
followed  at  full  speed.  Coming  in  view  of  a  clump  of  young  cocoa- 
nut  trees,  my  horse  left  the  path  and  ran  under  the  trees.  I  leaned 
down  on  the  left  side  with  my  arm  around  the  horse's  neck,  and 
the  spur  of  one  foot  hooked  under  the  saddle.  The  horse  ran 
furiously  under  the  trees,  intending  to  brush  me  off.  But  with  the 
exception  of  having  one  coat-sleeve  torn  away  by  a  limb  I  escaped 
unhurt. 

My  horse  next  described  a  curve  toward  the  sea-shore,  and,  coming 
to  a  cliff,  leaped  off  into  what  had  been  a  taro  patch,  where  the 
mud  was  three  feet  deep.  Here  he  floundered  for  some  minutes 
before   reaching  the   opposite   bank. 

He  then  directed  his  course  for  the  sand-beach,  along  which 
canoes  were  hauled  up,  some  single,  others  double.  As  he  reached  the 
canoes  he  scaled  them  like  a  bird.  When  he  had  reached  the  end 
of  the  sand-beach  I  succeeded  in  controlling  him. 

Before  we  finished  our  ride  I  had  broken  the  stubborn  will  of  the 
horse  so  that  he  behaved  as  well  as  the  best  of  them. 


44 

I  rode  him  many  times  afterwards,  but  he  never  again  attempted 
to  be  the  captain.  He  was  a  very  lithe  and  active  animal,  and  would 
leap  over  a  wall  or  fence  while  other  horses  were  obliged  to  go 
around. 

My  chief  pleasure  with  the  horse  was  riding  on  the  beach  and 
making  him  leap  over  the  canoes. 

About  the  10th  of  May,  1844,  we  sailed  from  the  Sandwich  Islands 
for  the  northwest  coast,  fell  in  with  whales  in  latitude  35  degrees 
north,  longitude  160  degrees  west,  and  captured  several.  Inasmuch 
as  a  large  fleet  had  sailed  for  the  northwest  coast,  I  decided  to  take 
my  chances  on  new  ground. 

WHALING   ON   SUNDAY   AND   SWEARING,   TABUED. 

About  this  time  my  convictions  became  so  strong  that  it  was  a 
duty  to  make  a  change  in  my  life,  and  in  the  discipline  aboard  the 
ship,  that  I  called  my  officers  together,  and  we  held  a  consultation 
with  regard  to  whaling  on  the  Sabbath,  and  profane  swearing.  It 
was  decided  that  a  religious  service  should  be  held  on  the  Sabbath. 

The  owners,  officers  and  crew  expected  us  to  whale  on  the  Sabbath. 
When  the  first  Sabbath,  after  our  discussion  came,  whales  were  dis- 
covered in  the  morning  and  I  reluctantly  permitted  the  boats  to  go 
and  chase. 

After  an  unsuccessful  effort  to  capture  a  whale,  lasting  all  day, 
the  boats  returned.  The  same  evening  I  called  the  officers  and  men 
together  and  told  them  that  we  must  either  give  up  whaling  on 
Sunday  or  religious  service. 

I  gave  them  my  views  on  the  subject  and  submitted  this  question 
to  a  vote: 

"Shall  we  catch  whales  on  the  Sabbath?" 

The  vote  was  unanimous  for  keeping  the  Sabbath. 

RELIGIOUS    SERVICES    INAUGURATED    ON    SHIPBOARD. 

All  were  invited  into  the  cabin  that  night  for  religious  service. 
The  meeting  was  very  interesting.  My  officers  and  more  than  half 
of  the  men  expressed  a  determination  to  reform  their  lives. 

These  services  were  regularly  held,  and  had  a  most  salutary  effect 
upon  the  ship's  company.  No  profane  word  was  heard  about  the 
ship. 

I  caused  a  notice  to  be  attached  on  the  pinnacle,  "No  swearing 
allowed   aboard   this   ship." 

No  liquor  had  ever  been  used  aboard  the  ship,  except  for  medical 
purposes. 

A  WHALE   KNOCKS  ENAMEL  OFF  MATE'S   TEETH. 

We  pursued  our  voyage  most  successfully,  whaling  on  new  ground 
in  east  longitude,  near  the  coast  of  Japan.     Then  steering  north  we 


45 

fell  in  witli  whales  off  the  Kurile  Islands.  My  first  officer,  in  cap- 
turing a  whale,  got  badly  injured,  the  whale  striking  him  on  the 
head  so  that  the  enamel  of  his  teeth  was  scaled  off,  and  one  of  his 
eyes  injured  so  that  he  always  thereafter  saw  two  objects,  one  above 
the  other  when  there  really  was  but  one. 

The  boat  was  not  stove  in,  the  whale  throwing  his  flukes  over  the 
boat,  knocking  the  mate  overboard.  The  mate  sunk,  and  the  boat- 
steerer,  Peter  Childs,  with  another  man  dove  down  into  the  water 
and  brought  the  injured  man  to  the  surface. 

Childs  afterwards  commanded  a  ship,  and  is  still  living.  This 
accident  disabled  my  mate  from  successfully  performing  his  duty,  as 
regards   whaling,    afterwards. 

KNOCKED    OVERBOARD   BY    A   WHALE. 

Shortly  after  the  mishap  to  my  mate,  I  also  met  with  an  experi- 
ence. We  had  captured  a  whale  and  was  cutting  him  up  at  the  ship 's 
side,  when  another  whale  appeared  near  the  vessel. 

I  was  on  deck,  but  lost  no  time  in  getting  into  a  boat  and  making 
an  attack  on  the  new-comer.  He  evidently  was  determined  to  stand 
his  ground.  When  we  harpooned  him  he  settled  down  so  our  boat 
shot  over  him. 

I  had  the  steering  oar  held  firmly  against  my  side.  When  the  whale 
came  up  he  struck  the  blade  of  the  oar  with  his  fliike.  My,  but 
didn't  I  go  flying  out  of  that  boat  and  into  the  water  some  distance 
away!  The  breath  was  nearly  knocked  out  of  my  body,  but  I  man- 
aged to  swim  back  to  the  boat. 

I  got  into  the  boat,  and  going  to  the  bow  lanced  and  killed  the 
whale,  which  all  the  time  kept  floundering  about  the  boat,  but  doing 
no  damage  to  speak  of,  other  than  my  flying  trip. 

One  Sunday  after  we  had  given  up  whaling  on  that  day,  two 
whales  sported  about  the  ship  all  day.  That  night  was  calm,  and  lo! 
the  next  morning  (Monday)  the  same  whales  were  near  the  ship. 
I  knew  they  were  the  same  ones,  because  one  was  marked  with  a 
white  spot  on  his  back.  We  captured  both  of  them,  and  they  made 
350  barrels  of  oil  for  us. 

A  WHALE    COLLIDES   WITH   THE    SHIP. 

On  this  same  voyage,  one  foggy,  calm  Sunday  night,  a  large  cow- 
whale  struck  the  ship  with  her  fins,  breaking  away  the  gangway 
board.  When  morning  came  the  whale  was  still  near  the  ship.  We 
lowered  a  boat  and  captured  her,  and  got  150  barrels  of  oil  from 
the  carcass. 

"BLUBBER-LOGGED"    ON   A   LEE    SHORE. 

We  whaled  during  the  last  part  of  this  season  in  company  of  a 
number  of  other  whale-ships,  on  the  east  coast  of  Kamchatka. 


46 

Once,  after  taking  a  numlDer  of  whales,  and  being  what  is  called 
blubber-logged  (so  much  whale-fat  on  board  there  was  room  for  no 
more),  whire  off  Kronotzkoi  Bay,  a  strong  gale  sprung  up,  blowing 
on  shore. 

Our  ship  was  top-heavy,  and  could  not  carry  sail  to  keep  off.  By 
working  hard  and  trimjning  ship  we  managed  to  keep  off  shore  until 
the  gale  abated. 

The  coast  is  a  dangerous  one,  and  the  ship  being  unmanageable,  I 
had  fears  for  our  safety,  \\aien  the  gale  subsided,  we  found  that 
we  had  drifted  south  to  off  Petropaulowski,  a  Russian  settlement  on 
the  coast  of  Kamchatka,  where  a  large  trade  in  furs  is  carried  on. 

DESPERATE    FIGHTING   WITH    TWO    SPERM   WHALES. 

When  north  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  in  latitude  32  degrees,  longi- 
tude 160  degrees  west,  we  fell  in  with  a  school  of  large  sperm  whales. 

Lowering  our  boats,  the  third  mate  harpooned  a  large  whale.  The 
whale  went  down  and  took  out  about  three  hundred  fathoms  of  line. 

After  waiting  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour  for  the  whale  to 
come  to  the  surface,  another  large  whale  came  up  near  my  boat. 

We  immediately  pulled  alongside  and  harpooned  him.  He  proved 
to  be  a  warrior,  and  showed  fight.  I  immediately  pierced  his  lungs 
with  my  lance.  He  resented  my  lance  thrust  by  turning  on  his  back 
and  running  alongside  the  boat,  and  with  his  jaws  cut  in  two,  at  one 
snap,  every  oar  on  that  side,  missing  the  boat  by  not  more  than  a 
foot. 

He  made  it  very  lively  for  us  for  some  time  after,  as  he  "milled" 
around  shortly  and  again  came  at  the  boat.  Having  only  two  oars 
left  we  were  poorly  prepared  to  keep  out  of  his  way. 

When  near  the  boat  I  shoved  my  lance,  to  the  socket,  into  his 
head,  and  by  bracing  the  lance,  kept  the  boat  just  so  far  from  the 
whale. 

In  this  manner  the  whale  pushed  our  boat  through  the  water  quite 
a  distance,  and  constantly  snapping  his  jaws. 

Tiring  of  these  fruitless  efforts,  he  turned  to  one  side;  and  I  hoped 
he  had  given  up  the  chase — but  not  so,  for  he  again  turned  and  came 
at  us  with  apparently  redoubled  fury. 

I  had  another  lance  ready,  and  again  pierced  his  head  as  before, 
succeeding  this  time,  also,  in  keeping  the  boat  out  of  his  reach. 

After  running  the  boat  another  mile  or  more,  he  seemed  to  conclude 
that  he  was  making  a  fruitless  chase:  he  slackened  his  speed,  milled 
around  and  headed  in  another  direction,  all  the  time  throwing  out 
quantities  of  blood. 

After  this  he  soon  turned,  fin  out,  and  the  battle  was  over. 

In  the  mean  while,  the  whale  struck  by  the  third-mate's  boat  came 


47 

to  the  surface  and  was  killed,  but  not  until  he  had  stoved  one  boat 
into  spliters,  and  badly  bruising  two  men. 

$6,975,    RECEIPTS   FROM   ONE   DAY'S   WHALING. 

The  two  whales  made  us  180  barrels  of  sperm  oil.  This  oil  at 
that  time  was  worth  $1.25  a  gallon,  and  there  were  31  gallons  to 
the  barrel.  Consequently,  these  two  whales,  yielded  us  $6,975 — a 
pretty  good  day's  work. 

This  kind  of  game  being  such  a  fruitful  source  of  revenue,  will 
fully  explain  why  men  were  willing  to  take  so  many  life-risks.  Out 
of  the  jaws  of  one  of  these  whales  I  sawed  out  a  cane,  which  I  have 
at  the  present  time,  and  which  I  will  be  pleased  to  show  to  any  one 
who  will  call  at  my  home  in  Nordhoff. 

Late  in  the  season,  the  20th  of  September^  we  put  away  for  the 
Hawaiian  Islands,  from  where  we  shiped  a  portion  of  our  catch. 
We  took  this  season  2,500  barrels  of  oil,  and  4,000  pounds  of  whale- 
bone. 

JOINED  THE   CHURCH   IN  HONOLULU. 

After  returning  from  our  first  trip  to  the  northwest  coast,  we 
remained  at  the  Sandwich  Islands  about  one  month,  recruiting. 

While  at  the  Islands  I  became  acquainted  with  a  number  of  mis- 
sionary families,  among  them  Kev.  Eichard  Armstrong  and  family. 
His  son  General  Samuel  Armstrong  is  now  president  of  Hampton 
College,  Virginia.  I  also  formed  the  acquaintance  of  Eev.  Lowell 
Smith,  and  many  others.  The  kindness  and  attention  I  received 
from  these  people  is  worthy  of  remark. 

During  this  month's  stay  in  Honolulu,  myself  and  two  officers  and 
thirteen  seamen  united  with  the  Bethel  Church,  Kev.  S.  C.  Damon, 
seaman's   chaplain,   pastor. 

So  many  men  from  one  ship  uniting  at  one  time  with  a  church, 
was  a  new  thing  in  Honolulu  and  caused  much  comment  in  the  gov- 
ernment newspaper,  and  in  public  and  private  places. 

Myself,  officers,  and  five  of  the  sailors,  were  baptised  by  immersion 
in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  the  other  seven  sailors  being  baptised  by  pour- 
ing or  sprinkling. 

The  Uncas  was  the  first  ship  to  fly  the  Bethel  flag  in  Honolulu 
harbor.  I  was  called  by  the  natives  the  "mickonary  sapin" — mis- 
sionary captain. 

Our  month's  recruiting  stay  at  Honolulu  being  exhausted,  we  sailed 
south,  cruising  on  or  near  the  equator  for  about  two  months,  and 
taking  about  150  barrels  of  oil.  While  in  low  latitudes  and  mild 
weather  we  fitted  our  rigging  for  another  northern  cruise. 


48 
HOW   MY   TEN-DOLLAR   PANAMA   HAT    CAME    TO   GRIEF. 

One  pleasant  day  the  mizzen-top-naast  rigging  was  being  overhauled. 
As  I  was  walking  back  and  forth  on  the  quarter-deck,  a  large  iron 
marlin-spike  came  down,  going  through  the  rim  of  my  hat,  and  in 
its  descent  picking  off  one  waistband  button.  Striking  the  deck  the 
spike  pierced  a  three-inch  plank.  That  was  how  my  new  Panama 
hat  came  to  be  ruined;  and  it  was  a  pretty  close  call  for  me,  too. 

There  is  always  a  laniard,  or  cord,  attached  to  these  marlin-spikes, 
and  a  man  working  with  one  in  the  rigging  is  supposed  to  have  it 
either  fastened  to  the  rigging  beside  him,   or  the  cord  slipped  over 

his  head. 

I  immediately  called  the  man  down  from  aloft  and  asked  him  what 
I  had  done  to  him  that  he  should  drop  a  marlin-spike  onto  me. 

He  burst  into  tears  and  begged  my  forgiveness.  I  took  him  by 
the  hand  and  said: 

"1  trust  this  will  be  a  warning  to  you  to  hereafter  be  careful 
when  working  aloft." 

I  did  hate  to  have  my  nice  Panama  hat  ruined,  but  was  thankful 
for  my  escape. 

CHRONOMETERS  AND  WATCHES  ALL   OUT   OP   COMMISSION. 

Eeturning  from  the  south  we  made  a  brief  stay  at  Honolulu,  taking 
on  board  recruits  for  another  northern  cruise.  The  fore  part  of 
February,  1845,  we  again  sailed  for  the  northern  whaling  grounds, 
and  saw  whales  on  the  15th  of  that  month. 

A  few  days  after  first  seeing  whales,  going  to  wind  my  chrono- 
meters at  6  o'clock,  the  usual  time  in  the  morning,  I  found  that  one 
of  them  had  stopped.  On  examination  its  chain  was  found  to  be 
broken.  Two  mornings  thereafter  the  mate's  watch  stopped,  its 
main  spring  being  broken. 

On  the  following  day  my  old  chronometer  watch  refused  duty.  We 
had  now  nothing  but  a  fifteen-minute  hour  glass  to  measure  time. 

I  found  it  very  inconvenient  to  keep  the  ship's  position  in  that 
foggy  region.  My  sole  dependence  was  lunar  observations.  A  lunar 
observation  could  not  often  be  obtained,  because  of  the  fogs  and 
hazy  weather. 

MIRAGE  OP  A  MAN  WALKING  ON  THE  WATER. 

One  morning  about  daybreak,  the  weather  being  foggy,  the  lookout 
on   deck   cried: 

"Man  walking  on  the  water!" 

Taking  my  glass  I  went  aloft,  and  sure  enough  there  was  a  man 
apparently  a  mile  distant  standing  on  the  water.  It  proved  to  be 
a  man  on  the  lookout  of  another  ship,  which  gradually  came  plainly 
into  view  on  the  horizon,  and  there  seemed  to  lengthen  out  until  it 


49 

was   a   quarter   of   a   mile   long,   when   it   disappeared.      This    was   a 
mirage. 

A  few  days  after  the  mirage  I  fell  in  with  a  French  whaler  from 
Havre.  I  boarded  his  ship  and  succeeded  in  buying  a  watch.  The 
weather  was  thick  and  foggy. 

RUN  INTO  BY  A  FRENCHMAN. 

At  4  o'clock  the  following  morning  the  lookout   cried   out: 

"A  ship  coming  into  us!" 

At  about  the  same  time  the  French  whaler  struck  us  on  her  lea- 
bow,  leaving  her  bobstays  on  t"he  flukes  of  our  anchor.  Her  bow- 
sprit tore  away  all  our  standing  rigging,  to  the  foremast,  except  one 
top-mast  back-stay. 

The  strain  on  the  lea-rigging  split  the  dead-eye  to  the  weather- 
rigging,  and  cut  off  the  Ian-yards  so  that  only  one  weather  top-mast 
back-stay  was  left  to  support  the  mast.  Our  ship's  rail  was  stripped. 
The  jib-boom,  flying-jib-boom,  and   fore-sail  were  carried   away. 

Fortunately  the  French  ship  had  no  cargo,  and  being  of  light 
draught  the  Uncas  escaped  without  serious  damage. 

As  soon  as  we  could  see  we  secured  the  mast  and  before  night 
everything  was  rigged  in  good  shape. 

Taking  the  Frenchman's  bob-stays  in  a  whale  boat  I  boarded  him. 
He  could  speak  little  English  and  was  greatly  excited.  But  he  was 
very  grateful  and  polite,  making  up  in  smiles  and  gestures  his  in- 
ability to  talk  with  me. 

A    CLOSE    CALL— ESCAPE    FROM    SHIPWRECK    ON    BEHRING'S    ISLAND. 

I  then  steered  for  the  north,  and  in  a  few  days  entered  Behring's 
sea.  There  being  a  dense  fog  all  the  time  I  judgd  myself  to  be  near 
Behring's  Island,  latitude  55  degrees  north,  longitude  166  degrees 
east. 

I  hove  to  with  a  strong  breeze  from  the  southwest  in  an  ugly  sea. 
In  the  afternoon  the  wind  died  away  to  a  dead  calm,  and  breakers 
were  heard  to  the  northeast  of  us. 

The  weather  continuing  calm,  and  the  heavy  swell  heaving  to  the 
northeast,  whence  came  the  sound  of  the  breakers,  the  ship  became 
unmanageable  in  the  heavy  sea,  and  we  found  we  were  nearing  the 
rocks  on  the  coast  of  Behring  Island. 

At  5  o'clock  p.  m.  we  were  in  the  rollers  just  outside  the  breakers. 
The  ship  was  rolling  heavily,  and  the  rollers  were  breaking  over  our 
deck.  All  sail  was  set,  but  there  was  no  wind.  About  this  time  the 
fog  lifted  and  we  saw  that  our  ship  was  in  a  most  dangerous  posi- 
tion, for  the  rocks  were  within  a  stone's  throw. 

At  the  last  moment,  when  all  hope  of  saving  the  ship  and  our 
lives  was  gone,  a  light  breeze  from  the  land  struck  us,  and  the  ship 


50 

began  slowly  to  gather  headway,  and  escaped  from  the  jaws  of  cer- 
tain destruction. 

The  white  polar  bears  seen  on  shore  awaiting  our  arrival,  were 
doomed  to  disappointment. 

Behring's  Island  is  high,  has  a  rock-bound  coast,  and  no  harbor, 
but  at  this  time  was  green  with  vegetation.  That  evening  we  held 
a  meeting  in  the  cabin,  and  returned  thanks  to  God  for  our  preser- 
vation. 

We  cruised  in  this  region,  capturing  a  number  of  whales,  and  on 
the  20th  day  of  September  put  away  for  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

On  our  trip  back  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  two  whales  came  along- 
side the  ship,  and  stayed  with  us.  We  didn't  feel  like  ignoring  them, 
and  so  secured  them  both,  without  unusual  incident.  They  netted 
us  300  barrels  of  oil,  and  3,500  pounds  of  bone,  which  we  carried 
on  deck. 

A  TEMPERANCE    SHIP. 

The  last  of  October,  1845,  the  Uncas  left  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
homeward  bound.  On  our  way  home  we  touched  at  Talcahuano, 
Chili,  which  at  that  time  of  its  history  was  one  of  the  vilest  rum- 
holes  on  the  coast  of  South  America.  We  had  formed  a  temperance 
society  on  our  ship,  and  every  man  had  joined  it.  The  rum-sellers  at 
Talcahuano  were  much  disappointed,  expecting  to  reap  a  rich  harvest 
when  our  ship  came  in. 

Having  given  my  men  a  temperance  lecture,  I  sent  them  ashore. 
Instead  of  visiting  the  saloons  each  of  them  hired  a  horse  and  rode 
out  to  the  city  of  Concepcion,  seven  miles  distant  from  the  port  of 
Talcahuano. 

Concepcion  is  the  capital  of  the  province  of  the  same  name,  and 
is  situated  on  the  river  Biobio.  The  city  is  an  interesting  one  to 
strangers.  It  has  broad  streets  and  many  handsome  houses,  and  it 
also  had  in  1847  many  ruins,  reminders  that  the  city  was  three  times 
destroyed  by  earthquakes — in  1730,  in  1752,  and  in  1825. 

AN   EXPERIENCE   WITH  RUM    SELLERS   IN   CHILI. 

My  sailors  spent  the  day  inspecting  the  ruins,  and  in  the  evening 
they  all  came  aboard  sober,  and  in  good  order.  Not  one  of  them  had 
tasted  liquor. 

While  we  were  at  Talcahuano  the  liquor-sellers  declared  that  they 
would  not  tolerate  temperance  ships  in  their  port,  and  that  when 
I  came  ashore  for  my  clearance  papers  I  should  receive  a  pounding. 

The  morning  I  intended  to  leave  I  took  a  boat's  crew  of  six  picked 
men  and  went  ashore.  After  receiving  my  papers,  on  returning  to 
the  wharf,  the  rum-sellers  and  their  supporters  appeared  in  full 
force.     I  marched   down  with   my   men,   and   when   w^e   came   to   the 


51 

boat  we  halted,  as  the  boys  were  ready  for  an  encounter.  "Waiting 
long  enough  for  our  enemies  to  execute  their  threat,  we  gave  three 
hearty  cheers  for  Temperance,  and  shoved  off  without  being  at- 
tacked. 

After  remaining  at  Talcahuano  about  twelve  days,  we  resumed  our 
homeward  voyage.  In  March,  1846,  we  again  arrived  in  New  Bedford, 
after  an  uneventful  passage,  with  4,000  barrels  of  oil  and  70,000 
pounds  of  bone. 

MRS.  GELETT  MAKES  A  VOYAGE. 

The  ship  having  been  thoroughly  overhauled,  was  nicely  fitted  up 
to  accommodate  my  wife,  who  had  resolved  to  accompany  me  on 
my   seventh   voyage. 

We  sailed  from  New  Bedford  on  the  27th  of  August,  1846.  My 
first  mate,  Mr.  Eldridge,  afterwards  a  captain,  was  an  excellent 
whaleman. 

My  second  mate,  Mr.  Childs,  had  served  with  me  on  the  Uncas, 
and  was  a  worthy  and  efficient  officer;  he  afterwards  commanded  a 
ship. 

On  our  way  to  the  Western  Islands  we  encountered  a  gale  from 
the  northwest.  The  ship  rolled  heavily;  Mrs.  Gelett  was  very  sea- 
sick, and  was  lying  on  the  lounge  in  the  cabin,  but  during  the  plung- 
ing of  the  ship  the  lounge  broke  its  lashings  and  moved  across  the 
room.  Mrs.  Gelett  looked  up,  and  notwithstanding  her  deathly  sick- 
ness asked: 

"Is  that  what  you  call  'a  lee-lurch?'  " 

She  was  really  so  sick  that  I  feared  she  would  not  live  to  reach 
Fayal.  But  we  came  to  anchor  at  this  port  in  good  time,  and  re- 
mained some  days. 

Mrs.  Gelett  was  so  weak  from  sea-sickness  that  when  we  went 
ashore  it  was  necessary  to  carry  her  in  a  Sedan  chair  from  the  pier 
to  the  hotel. 

Fayal  was  overrun  with  donkeys,  which  kept  up  an  incessant  bray- 
ing. The  sound  was  a  new  one  to  Mrs.  Gelett,  as  she  had  never 
before  heard  or  seen  a  "mountain  canary,"  and  she  asked,  "What 
kind  of  a  celebration  is  being  held  in  this  place,  that  they  are  blow- 
ing horns  so  much?" 


^& 


TRAVELLING  BY  DONKEY  EXPRESS. 

My  wife  and  myself  accepted  an  invitation  to  dine  with  the  Amer- 
ican consul,  Mr.  Dabney,  and  his  family.  As  carriages,  hacks  or 
omnibusses  were  not  yet  dreamt  of  in  Fayal,  to  make  the  trip  from 
the  hotel  to  the  consul's  house,  Mrs.  Gelett  was  provided  with  a 
donkey  to  ride,  and  two  attendants,  one  to  lead  and  the  other  to 
drive.     When  the  donkey  stopped  to  bray  the   attendant  beat  him 


52 

over  the  head,  as  a  reprimand.  A  pillion  was  fastened  to  the  donkey's 
back  which  served  as  a  seat  for  Mrs.  Gelett,  but  as  she  had  nothing 
to  hold  on  to  I  walked  along  one  side  to  support  her.  And  thus  we 
proceeded  to  the  consul's. 

DESCRIPTION    OF    A    FAYAL    DWELLING    AND    PREMISES. 

Mr.  Dabney  owned  a  beautiful  and  extensive  home  at  Fayal,  which 
I  believe  is  still  in  the  possession  of  the  family.  The  house  was  in- 
comparably grand — was  the  dwelling  of  the  place,  and  the  grounds 
were  very  inviting  and  extensive,  being  covered  with  many  acres  of 
orange,  lemon,  and  other  semi-tropical  and  tropical  fruit  trees,  be- 
sides much  ornamental  shrubbery  and  a  profusion  of  flowers. 

There  is  never  frost  at  Fayal  to  cheek  the  growth  of  vegetation. 
TVe  were  royally  entertained  at  Mr.  Dabney 's  home. 

Mrs.  Gelett  gained  strength  very  rapidly  during  our  stay  at  Fayal, 
so  that  when  we  again  went  aboard  the  Uncas,  she  was  a  much  better 
sailor  than  when  she  was  carried  from  the  ship  to  the  hotel. 

From  Fayal  we  steered  south,  passing  in  sight  of  the  Cape  de  Verde 
Islands.  The  second  day  after  leaving  Fayal  a  school  of  large  sperm 
whales  came  in  sight.  They  were  the  first  whales  Mrs.  Gelett  had 
ever  seen.  We  gave  chase  and  captured  one  of  the  school — a  big 
fellow  who  showed  fight,  and  gave  us  something  to  do  for  about  ten 
hours,  in  killing  him  and  cutting  up  his  carcass.  He  netted  us  109 
barrels  of  sperm  oil.  Mrs.  Gelett  took  great  interest  in  this  capture, 
sitting  in  the  quarter-boat  most  of  the  day,  and  for  the  time  forget- 
ting her  sea-sickness. 

A  POEM  ON  WHALING. 

Notwithstanding  her  illness,  that  same  evening  Mrs.  Gelett  wrote 
the  following  poem  on: 

"There  She  Blows!" 

What  sound  is  this  salutes  my  ear, 

And  breaks  my  sweet  repose? 
I  list  again  and  plainly  hear 

The  cry  of  "There  she  blows!" 

I'll  sleep  once  more — no,  that's  in  vain. 

As  any  whaleman  knows. 
Oh,  who  could  sleep  to  such  a  strain, 

Of  music?— "There  she  blows!" 

Now  I'll  on  deck,  my  glass  in  hand, 

To  hold  above  my  nose, 
I've  caught  a  glimpse,  there's  no  mistake, 

I'm  certain,  "There   she  blows!" 


53 

Clear  all  the  boats  from  stern  to  bow, 

His  hump  the  monster  shows: 
He's  going  to  the  leeward,  slow — 

Come,  hasten,  "There  she  blows!" 

To  man  the  boats  each  sailor  speeds, 

His  shoes  far  off  he  throws — 
Where  they  may  light  he  never  heeds — 

He's  thinking,  "There  she  blows!" 

Now  pull  ahead,  my  hearties,  ere 
'He  turns  his  flukes  and  goes; 
Pull,  pull  ahead,  we'll  soon  be  there; 
I  see  him — "There  she  blows!" 

"They're  fast!  they're  fast!"  the  captain  cries; 

"And  see,  his  life  blood  flows!" 
The  crimson  through  his  glass  he  spies, 

Whenever,  "There  she  blows!" 

He's  dead;  now  whaleman,  come  aboard. 

And  see  how  much  he  stows. 
And  count  the  coppers  you  can  hoard 

From  hearing  "There  she  blows!" 

Kind  lady,  scholar,  squire  or  sage. 

If  out  your  candle  goes, 
I  pray  you,  never  get  in  a  rage 

But  think  of  "There  she  blows!" 


TYPHOID  FEVER  AND  A  DEATH  AT  SEA. 

The  day  after  we  sailed  from  New  Bedford,  Mr.  Summers,  one  of 
our  crew,  was  prostrated  with  typhoid  fever.  He  recovered  after 
twenty  days;  but  a  few  days  after  we  lost  sight  of  the  Cape  de 
Verde  Islands,  James  M.  Sever,  my  wife's  nephew,  was  attacked  by 
a  fever,  which  terminated  fatally  on  the  23d  of  October,  1846.  He 
was  a  young  man  of  good  principle  and  always  kept  a  Bible  under 
his  pillow.  We  buried  him  near  the  equator  one  evening  just  at  sunset. 
At  this  point  I  will  take  the  liberty  of  quoting  from  the  journal  of 
this  voyage,  kept  by  Mrs.  Gelett.  As  soon  as  our  nephew  complained 
of  being  sick  we  took  him  into  the  cabin  where  better  attention  could 
be  given  him: 

EXTRACT    FROM    MRS.    GELETT 'S    JOURNAL. 

"Since  I  last  wrote  in  my  journal  I  have  been  called  to  pass 
through  one  of  the  most  trying  scenes  I  ever  experienced.  All  our 
efforts  to  afford  relief  to  our  dear  nephew  proved  unavailing.  When 
he  first  came  from  the  forecastle  I  noticed  that  he  trembled,  but  sup- 
posed that  it  was  occasioned  by  weakness  arising  from  his  bowel 
complaint.     He  had  been   with   us   but   a   day   or   two   when  I  felt 


54 

alarmed  at  his  symptoms.  He  complained  of  his  mouth  as  being  dry 
and  perched.  There  was  a  convulsive  motion  of  the  hands  that  made 
me  fear  an  affection  of  the  brain.  We  applied  mustard  to  his  feet 
and  wrists  and  bathed  his  head  iu  cold  water.  His  nights  were  sleep- 
less and  confused;  strange  visions  filled  his  thoughts. 

"We  soon  began  to  notice  appearances  of  delirium  in  the  daytime; 
still,  he  was  mild  and  pleasant.  He  would  look  up  at  me  and  smile 
and  tell  me  what  he  was  thinking.  He  complained  very  little,  except 
of  a  sticky  feeling  about  his  mouth  and  throat,  which  drinking  did 
not  relieve.  The  wandering  of  his  mind  increased  as  his  disease 
advanced. 

"On  Tuesday  morning,  October  20th,  I  went  to  him  as  soon  as  I  left 
my  room,  and  bade  him  good  morning.  He  returned  the  salutation. 
I  asked  him  if  he  was  glad  to  see  me;  he  said,  'Yes,'  and  remarked, 
'I  guess  I  shan't  let  you  go  away  from  me  again  tonight.' 

"As  I  sat  by  him  after  breakfast  he  began  to  talk  about  going 
home.  He  said  he  guessed  the  folks  would  be  glad  to  see  him,  and 
started  up  to  look  for  his  cap,  and  to  see  if  his  clothes  looked  well 
enough.  It  was  with  difficulty  I  persuaded  him  to  lie  down  again. 
He  said,  'I  must  go;  I  want  to  see  Charlotte  today.' 

"Afterward,  his  uncle  was  sitting  by  him,  and  he  began  to  talk 
on  the  subject  again.  He  had  two  sisters  at  home,  and  he  wanted 
to  see  them.  After  talking  a  while  he  said,  'There,  is  it  impossible?' 
His  uncle  replied  that  it  was;  he  then  turned  over  and  said  no  more 
about  it. 

"During  the  forenoon  he  was  removed  to  Mr.  Child's  room,  that 
he  might  have  less  light  and  noise.  He  was  delirious  during  the  day 
and  we  were  obliged  to  hold  him,  to  keep  him  from  getting  out  of  bed 
to  go  to  perform  ship's  duty.  He  seemed  to  have  but  little  conscious- 
ness of  what  was  going  on  around  him.  He  continued  to  grow  worse 
during  the  day.  I  stayed  with  him  but  little  after  he  ceased  to 
know  me,  for  I  could  not  bear  to  see  him  suffer. 

"About  11  o'clock  p.  m.  he  fell  asleep.  I  think  he  had  not  slept 
quietly  before,  during  his  sickness.  We  hoped  he  would  wake  to  con- 
sciousness;  but  it  was  not  so. 

"He  failed  fast  from  that  on,  and  at  11  o'clock  on  Wednesday  he 
breathed  his  last.  It  was  painful  for  me  to  think  that  he  must  be 
buried  on  the  ocean,  but  I  prayed  for  strength  to  bear  it,  and  I  think 
it  was  granted. 

"After  the  burial  had  been  read,  Ms  youthful  shipmates  performed 
the  last  sad  rites  of  launching  his  body  into  the  deep.  They  seemed 
to  feel  his  death,  for  he  had  gained  their  friendship,  as  well  as  the 
approbation  of  his  officers.  If  his  peace  was  made  with  God,  he  has 
made  a  happy  exchange  of  worlds. 

"The  day  after  he  came  into  the  cabin,  he  desired  to  talk  with  my 


55 

husband.  They  had  quite  a  long  conversation,  in  which  he  expressed 
his  desire  to  be  a  Christian,  and  to  live  right  on  board  the  ship.  He 
requested  his  uncle  to  tell  him  if  he  should  see  him  do  wrong.  He 
seemed  to  feel  very  deeply,  and  wept  while  he  spoke.  He  said  he 
had  been  thinking  on  the  subject  a  good  while,  but  had  never  told 
any  one  before;  he  mentioned  that  he  had  been  taught  to  pray  when 
a  child,  and  he  never  felt  as  though  he  could  go  to  sleep  without 
praying. 

"This  affliction  is  from  the  hand  of  the  Father,  and  it  becomes  us 
to  profit  by  it.  Nothing  earthly  can  console  in  such  an  hour.  'The 
Lord  reigneth, '  and  shall  not  the  Judge  of  all  the  earth  do  right?" 

IN  QUARANTINE  AT  RIO  JANEIRO. 

A  few  days  after  the  death  of  our  nephew,  six  more  of  the  sailors 
were  attacked  by  the  fever,  and  I  resolved  to  sail  for  Eio  Janeiro 
for  medical  aid. 

On  our  arrival  at  Eio,  November  4th,  1846,  we  were  met  by  the 
boarding  officer  and  put  in  quarantine.  I  requested  him  to  send  a 
physician  aboard  immediately,  which  he  promised  to  do.  The  day 
passed  away  but  no  physician  came.  I  hoisted  my  flag  half  mast, 
union  down,  the  signal  of  distress.  The  next  day  went  by  and  no 
doctor  appeared. 

On  the  following  morning  I  decided  to  go  on  board  the  United 
States  flagship  Columbia,  which  was  lying  in  the  harbor  about  four 
miles  distant. 

UNDER    FIRE    BY    A    BRAZILLIAN    WARSHIP. 

A  guard  boat  was  anchored  on  the  quarantine  ground,  within  hailing 
distance  of  my  ship.  When  I  lowered  my  boat  I  was  hailed,  but 
not  understanding  Portuguese,  of  course,  did  not  comprehend,  neither 
did  I  care,  what  was  said.  I  took  a  picked  crew  and  shoved  off, 
steering  for  the  flagship. 

When  we  had  pulled  about  a  hundred  yards,  a  shot  fired  from  the 
guard  boat  crossed  my  bow  at  about  the  distance  of  a  ship's  length. 
I  knew  the  next  shot  would  be  aimed  at  the  boat  and  I  swung  off 
so  as  to  bring  her  stern  to  the  cutter,  saying  to  the  boys: 

"Don't  be  frightened — they  can't  hit  us." 

The  next  minute  there  came  a  shot  striking  under  the  oars  along- 
side the  boat,  and  throwing  the  water  over  us.  In  a  few  minutes 
another  shot  struck  on  the  side  of  our  boat. 

We  were  now  about  a  mile  distant  from  the  cutter.  One  more 
shot  was  fired,  but  it  did  not  reach  us,  and  we  were  soon  alongside 
the  Columbia,  and  pulling  up  within  hail  I  informed  them  that  I 
needed  medical  aid.  The  Commodore  replied  that  my  wants  should  be 
attended  to  immediately.    The  chief  surgeon  and  his  assistant,  in  their 


56 

cutter,  accompanied  me  back  to  my  sMp;  and  visited  us  every  morn- 
ing, while  the  sickness  continued. 

According  to  the  regulation,  a  boat,  before  going  ashore,  was 
obliged  to  go  alongside  the  guard  boat  to  be  inspected  for  contra- 
band goods,  and  likewise  on  returning. 

GELETT  DEFIES  BRAZILIAN  GOVERNMENT. 

After  having  been  fired  upon,  as  heretofore  narrated,  I  paid  no 
further  attention  to  this  regulation,  but  went  ashore  and  returned  to 
my  ship  in  spite  of  the  cutter,  and  without  further  molestation. 

My  action,  in  leaving  the  ship  in  spite  of  the  guard  boat,  was 
reported  to  the  American  Consul.  An  investigation  was  had,  and  it 
being  shown  that  no  physician  had  been  sent,  as  requested,  I  was 
commended  for  my  course;  which  caused  much  merriment  on  board 
the  U.  S.  flagship,  where  I  was  called,  "The  Plucky  Captain." 

INCIPIENT    WAR    BETWEEN    BRAZIL    AND    UNITED    STATES. 

The  christening  of  the  Princess  Isabella,  daughter  of  Dom  Pedro  of 
Brazil,  was  celebrated  soon  after  our  arrival  at  Eio.  Bunting  and 
flags  were  profusely  displayed  everywhere,  and  salutes,  in  honor  of 
the  occasion,  were  fired  by  all  the  war  vessels  in  the  harbor,  except 
those  of  the  United  States — the  Preble,  and  the  flagship  Columbia. 

The  United  States  Commodore  refused  to  participate  in  the  cele- 
bration, for  the  reason  that  some  of  his  men,  while  on  shore,  in 
charge  of  their  oflicers,  had  been  arrested  by  the  Brazilian  police. 

The  Brazilian  authorities  were  very  indignant,  and  ordered  the 
Commodore  to  leave  the  harbor  within  forty-eight  hours,  otherwise 
they  would  sink  his  ship. 

A  short  time  before  the  expiration  of  the  time  limited,  the  Com- 
modore hauled  the  Columbia  in,  opposite  one  of  the  large  forts,  and 
broadside  to,  opened  his  ports,  and  ran  out  his  guns  ready  for  action. 
The  threat  to  sink  the  flagship  was  not  executed. 

The  Comm^idore  having  waited  a  reasonable  time,  and  not  being 
attacked,  took  his  ship  back  to  her  moorings. 

Complaint  having  been  made  by  the  Brazilians  to  the  United  States 
government,  an  investigation  was  had  and  the  Commodore's  course 
approved. 

OBSERVATIONS   AND   EXPERIENCES    IN   RIO   JANEIRO. 

Mrs.  Gelett  and  myself,  with  some  of  the  officers  of  the  Columbia, 
visited  the  Botanical  Gardens,  and  other  places  in  Eio  Janeiro  of 
interest. 

During  the  festivities  attending  the  celebration  of  the  christening 
of  the  young  princess,  at  the  imperial  palace  Mrs.  Gelett  and  I  saw 
a  body-guard  of  soldiers  that  surrounded  Dom  Pedro,  but  he  was  so 


57 

completely  guarded  that  we  did  not  get  a  good  view  of  His  Majesty. 
Years  afterward,  when  Dom  Pedro  made  a  tour  of  the  United  States, 
Mrs.  Gelett  was  in  a  train  that  passed  the  Emperor's  train — but  she 
did  not  see  him  that  time,  either. 

At  Eio  we  were  frequently  invited  on  board  the  flagship,  and  were 
shown  most  courteous  attention  by  the  Commodore  and  officers. 

There  was  scarcely  a  day  while  we  were  at  Eio  that  I  didn't  see 
a  procession  of  perhaps  fifty  persons,  headed  by  two  or  more  chant- 
ing priests,  passing  through  the  streets,  and  carrying,  under  a  canopy, 
some  sort  of  an  image  of  some  saint.  As  the  procession  passed  along 
everybody  was  expected  to  drop  on  the  knees,  and  remain  in  an 
abject  attitude  till  the  priestly  procession  had  passed.  People  who 
failed  to  obey  this  regulation  were  rapped  on  the  head  with  clubs. 
I  have  seen  persons  badly  hurt  in  this  way.  Whenever  I  saw  this 
procession  coming,  I  always  got  out  of  the  way,  and  so  probably 
saved  someone  trouble. 

RED   TAPE   AND   AN  ANCHOR. 

My  sick  men  having  improved,  we  resumed  our  voyage  around 
Cape  Horn. 

I  must  mention  here  of  the  red  tape  one  must  wind  in  order  to 
get  out  of  Eio  Janeiro,  after  you  are  once  there. 

At  Fayal,  on  the  way  out,  we  broke  our  anchor,  and  replaced  it 
with  another  one  at  Eio.  The  customs  regulations  there  kept  me 
busy  for  three  days,  however,  before  I  could  get  permission  to  load 
the  anchor  on  a  scow  and  take  it  out  to  my  ship,  after  I  had  bought  it. 

I  was  furnished  with  a  Portuguese  interpreter,  who  accompanied 
me  here,  there,  and  apparently  everywhere  that  an  official  had  an 
office.  Going  to  a  door,  the  interpreter  would  rap  and  make  a  noise 
that  might  be  employed  by  a  herder  of  geese. 

It  seemed  that  every  government  official  in  the  place  had  to  be 
personally  consulted  about  that  anchor.  But  I  finally  got  it  aboard 
the  ship — and,  weighted  as  it  was  with  ceremony,  it  should  have  held 
the  ship  better  than  an  ordinary  anchor. 

A  FAKE  PASS  WORD. 

There  was  a  good  deal  of  ceremony  about  going  out  of  the  harbor, 
too.  We  were  required  to  shout  a  pass-word,  previously  given  to  us, 
at  the  last  fort  as  we  passed  out  to  sea.  The  pass-word  given  to  me 
was  in  Portuguese,  and  I  couldn't  pronounce  it,  didn't  remember  its 
sound  half  a  minute,  and  didn't  know  its  meaning.  So  when  we 
passed  the  fort  I  shouted  out  something  that  meant  nothing;  and  we 
went  by  unchallenged. 

After  leaving  Eio  Janeiro,  another  man  was  stricken  with  typhoid 
fever,  making  the  ninth  case  I  had  had  on  board.    He  was  sick,  and 


58 

we   worked    unceasingly   over   him   three   days   and   nights,   and   had 
the  satisfaction  of  seeing  him  recover. 

Off  Falkland  Island  we  captured  several  large  sperm  whales. 

SOME  PACTS  ABOUT  THE  ALBATROSS. 

I  have  never  read  a  correct  description  of  the  albatross,  which 
are  very  numerous  in  the  South  Atlantic. 

Captain  Morrell  says,  in  his  book,  that  the  albatross  takes  his  prey 
on  the  wing.  Nothing  can  be  more  absurd;  for  it  feeds  chiefly  upon 
the  squid  that  rise  to  the  surface  after  having  been  cut  up  by  sperm 
whales. 

The  albatross  is  a  marine  scavenger — the  buzzard  of  the  sea — and 
feeds  on  the  carcasses  of  whales  and  other  large  fish. 

The  albatross  have  rookeries  at  Falkland  Island,  and  also  at  the 
Galapagos  Islands  on  the  Equator,  and  many  other  islands  in  the 
Southern  Seas.  They  are  also  seen  in  the  northern  ocean,  and  doubt- 
less cross  over  from  north  to  south. 

I  have  seen  southern  albatross  in  northern  latitudes,  they  evidently 
following  up  the  whaling  fleet.  The  northern  albatross  is  not  so  largo 
as  the  southern, 

AN  ALBATROSS  ORATOR. 

When  the  ocean  was  calm  I  often  saw  ten  or  twelve  albatross  form 
a  circle.  A  large  male  bird,  distinguished  by  the  red  spots  on  either 
side  of  his  neck,  took  position  at  the  center  and  appeared  to  address 
the  circle  upon  some  subject  of  common  interest.  With  a  graceful 
movement  he  turned  from  one  albatross  to  another,  until  his  speech 
being  ended,  he  took  his  place  in  the  circle,  to  be  followed  by  another 
equally  eloquent  albatross.  Sometimes  I  saw  six  or  seven  advance 
in  succession. 

SAILOR  JOKES  ON  THE  ALBATROSS. 

Although  sailors  never  kill  them,  they  often  play  practical  jokes 
at  their  expense.  Taking  two  pieces  of  blubber  that  an  albatross 
can  swallow,  they  tie  them  to  each  end  of  a  spuuyarn  about  two 
feet  in  length.  The  albatross  descend  in  numbers;  one  would  swallow- 
one  piece  of  blubber,  another  the  other.  Now  the  tug  of  war  begins, 
affording  great  amusement  for  the  sailors,  especially  when  two  well- 
matched  albatross  brace  off  for  a  desperate  swallow. 

The  motion  of  the  albatross  on  the  wing  is  very  rapid  and  grace- 
ful. One  was  caught  off  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  a  tag  attached  to 
its  neck,  showing  the  latitude,  longitude  and  date  of  its  capture.  Six 
days  thereafter  the  same  bird  was  caught  off  the  coast  of  Australia, 
four  thousand  miles  away.  It  must  have  flown  with  the  westerly 
gale,  at  an  average  of  twenty-eight  miles  an  hour. 


59 

FALKLANDS  A   GREAT   BIRD  RESORT. 

The  Falkland  Islands,  about  three  hundred  miles  northeast  of  Cape 
Horn,  are  a  famous  resort  for  different  kinds  of  sea  fowls,  which 
seem  to  have  a  most  perfect  system  in  the  arrangement  of  nests  and 
distribution   of  territory  among  the   different   species. 

Uncountable  numbers  of  geese  go  there  to  hatch  their  young.  The 
ganders  act  as  guards  while  their  mates  are  attending  to  their  part 
of  the  business.  It  is  not  safe  for  a  man  to  molest  these  birds,  as 
they  show  fight  and  are  very  ferocious. 

Albatross,  speckled  haglets,  sea-hens,  gulls,  mollymokes  (so-called 
by  the  sailors),  and  other  sea  birds,  almost  too  numerous  to  mention, 
also  make  their  home  on  these  islands. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  FALKLAND  ISLANDS. 

The  Falkland  group  is  composed  of  nearly  200  islands,  and  has 
an  area  of  about  13,000  square  miles.  The  two  largest  islands  are 
called  East  and  West  Falkland,  respectively.  They  are  separated 
from  each  other  by  a  narrow  sound.  East  Falkland  has  about  3,000 
square  miles,  and  west  Falkland  about  2,000  square  miles.  The  others 
are  small  islets  mostly  inhabited  by  the  birds  above  mentioned. 

On  account  of  the  peculiar  climate,  the  thermometer  ranging  in 
winter  between  30  degrees  and  50  degrees,  and  in  summer  between 
40  degrees  and  65  degrees,  with  frequent  rain  and  high  winds,  the 
soil  is  much  better  for  pasturage  than  for  cultivation. 

No  trees,  no  fruits,  very  little  of  anything  but  a  few  vegetables, 
are  raised.  The  grass  is  very  rich,  and  horses  and  cattle  are  raised 
in  great  numbers.  Pigs  and  rabbits  are  abundant,  and  the  coasts 
teem  with  fish. 

The  islands  were  first  discovered  by  Davis  in  1592.  In  1690  they 
were  visited  by  Strong,  who  gave  them  the  name  they  now  bear. 

French,  Spanish  and  English  settlements  have  at  different  times 
been  formed,  but  the  English  have  ultimately  retained  possession  of 
the  islands.  Port  Stanley  is  a  thriving  town  on  East  Falkland.  It 
has  a  good  harbor,  and  a  population  of  about  1,500. 

A  SNOW  BIRD  COMES  ABOARD. 

We  had  pleasant  weather  after  passing  the  Falkland  Islands,  and 
while  rounding  Cape  Horn.  While  off  the  Cape  a  snow-bird  came 
aboard  the  ship,  and  served  not  only  to  break  the  monotony  of  life 
upon  the  ship,  but  was  a  reminder  to  us  of  home,  and  especially  so  to 
Mrs.  Gelett,  who  at  the  time — forty-five  years  ago — wrote  in  her 
journal  of  the  voyage,  the  following  poem,  inscribed  to  our  little 
feathered   visitor: 


60 

Lines  To  a  Snow  Bird. 

Addressed  to  a  Snow  Bird,  that  came  on  board  the  Uncas,  Feb- 
ruary 23d,  1847,  latitude  about  57  degrees  south,  longitude  74  degrees 
west. 

Welcome,  welcome,  little  stranger! 
(Welcome  to  our  fl.oating  home. 

0  'er  the  ocean  wide,  a  ranger. 
Longer,  now,  thou  needst  not  roam. 

Sure,  thy  little  wings  are  weary, 

And  thy  downy  breast  is  chill; 
Leave  the  billows,  cold  and  dreary — 

In  our  cabin  all  is  still. 

Long  I've  looked  on  sky  and  ocean. 

And  thy  image  glads  my  eye. 
Fills  me  with  a  strong  emotion — 

Tell  me  stranger,  is  home  nigh? 

Oft  around  my  mother's  dwelling, 

WTien  the  snow  fell  light  and  free, 
Have  I  heard  thy  kindred  telling 

The  sweet  tale  of  "Chick-a-dee!  " 

But  thou  art  silent,  downy  rover. 

And  thou  bringest  no  news  to  me; 
Canst  thou  not  forget  thy  lover 

And  once  sing  me  "Chick-a-dee?" 

Silent  still?     Then  silent,  teach  me 

Not  to  murmur  or  repine. 
He  who  in  thy  wanderings  watched  thee, 

Still  will  have  an  eye  on  mine. 

Should  He  please,  once  more  we'll  wander 

Where  our  feet  were  used  to  stray, 
Gaze  once  more  on  home  and  loved  ones. 

O'er  the  billows,  far  away. 

Stay  thee,  little  rover,  stay  thee! 

No,  thou  art  gone  to  soar  on  high. 
Thus  my  thoughts  should  upward  bear  me, 

To  the  scenes  beyond  the  sky. 

Then  should  ocean  make  my  pillow. 
Or  a  foreign  land  my  tomb, 

1  should  mount  upon  the  billow. 
To  my  loving  Saviour's  home. 


We  made  a  quick  passage  along  the  coast  to  the  island  of  Juan  Fer- 
nandez, or  Eobinson  Crusoe  Island. 


61 

DESCRIPTION  OF  ROBINSON   CRUSOE  ISLAND. 

The  island  of  Juan  Fernandez,  or  Mas-a-Tierra,  is  in  latitude  33 
degrees  37  minutes  south  and  longitude  78  degrees  53  minutes  west. 
It  is  about  four  hundred  miles  off  the  coast  of  Chile,  to  which  it  be- 
longs. The  island  is  eighteen  miles  long,  six  miles  broad,  and  is 
mountainous,  with  steep  shores;  but  the  soil  is  fertile,  producing 
sandalwood  and  other  sorts  of  timber,  and  figs,  grapes,  and  many- 
other  kinds  of  fruit. 

This  island  was  discovered  in  1563  by  a  Spanish  pilot  named  Juan 
Fernandez.  The  story  of  Alexander  Selkirk,  a  Scotch  sailor,  who 
was,  at  his  own  desire,  put  ashore  on  this  island,  and  lived  there  for 
four  years  in  solitude,  is  supposed  to  have  suggested  the  idea  of 
De  Foe's  tale  of  "Robinson  Crusoe." 

The  island  upon  which  De  Foe  places  his  hero  is  oif  the  coast  of 
Venezuela,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Orinoco. 

Mrs.  Gelett  and  I  went  ashore  and  visited  the  cave,  where  she 
sang  the  song  of  "Eobinson  Crusoe/'  with  the  echoes  for  an  accom- 
paniment. The  island  was  then  inhabited  only  by  a  few  Chilean 
convicts  in  charge  of  a  guard  of  soldiers;  now  there  are  people  from 
the  United  States  and  Tahiti  living  there.  Here  we  obtained  peaches 
and  quinces. 

The  scenery  of  Juan  Fernandez  is  wild  and  rugged.  The  landing 
is  on  the  north  side.  We  did  not  anchor,  but  stood  off  and  on  for  a 
few  hours. 

IN   HAWAII   ONCE   MORE,    IN    1847. 

We  arrived  at  Maui,  Sandwich  Islands,  on  the  19th  of  April,  18-i7. 
Having  recruited  for  our  northern  voyage,  we  proceeded  to  Honolulu, 
where  Mrs.  Gelett  disembarked  and  remained  until  my  return  the 
following  autumn. 

On  the  15th  of  May  we  sailed  for  the  Okhotsk  Sea,  which  we  en- 
tered through  the  Boussole  channel,  at  latitude  46  degrees  40  min- 
utes north,  and  longitude  151  degrees  east,  and  passed  near  the  island 
of  Chernoi,  which  is  an  active  volcano.  Cruising  between  this  point 
and  Saghalin  Island  we  took  2,000  barrels  of  oil. 

A   FATAL  FIGHT   WITH   A  WHALE. 

In  July  one  of  my  crew  was  killed  while  harpooning  a  whale.  As 
soon  as  the  whale  was  struck  he  threw  the  corner  of  his  fluke  over 
the  gunwale,  striking  the  midship-oarsman  on  the  side,  killing  him 
instantly;  then  taking  a  turn  the  whale  came  up  under  the  boat, 
staving  it  into  pieces,  and  throwing  out  the  crew  in  every  direction. 
I  was  soon  on  the  scene.  Having  picked  up  the  men  we  renewed 
our  attack  and  finally  captured  the  prize.  He  was  a  hundred-barrel 
whale. 


62 

At  the  last  of  September  we  put  away  again  for  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  We  had  taken  30,000  pounds  of  whale  bone,  in  addition  to 
2,000  barrels  of  oil,  which  I  shipped  to  New  Bedford. 

CANOEING    AND    TRAMPING    AROUND    HAWAII. 

After  shipping  our  cargo  of  oil  and  bone  to  New  Bedford,  we  took 
Mrs.  Gelett  aboard  the  Uncas  at  Honolulu,  and  sailed  to  the  west 
coast  of  Hawaii,  where  we  landed  at  Kealakekua  Bay.  Sending  the 
ship  to  Hilo,  on  the  east  side  of  Hawaii,  in  charge  of  the  mate,  I 
procured  a  double  canoe,  intending  to  double  the  South  Point  of  the 
Island,  but  finding  the  sea  too  rough,  we  put  back  to  a  little  harbor 
where  I  engaged  twelve  natives  to  carry  Mrs.  Gelett,  who  was  too 
ill  to  walk,  and  our  baggage.  Our  caravan  consisted  of  Mrs.  Gelett, 
her  friend  Miss  Mills,  the  natives,  one  of  my  crew,  and  myself. 

Our  way,  over  rough  lava,  impassable  by  horses,  led  us  around 
the  south  end  of  the  island.  An  old  stuttering  Portuguese  accom- 
panied us  as  guide,  and  interpreter.  The  first  night  we  pitched  our 
tent  amid  brush  and  ferns.  The  Portuguese  stuttered  so  fearfully 
that  it  took  him  sometimes  several  minutes  to  reply  to  a  question. 

This  was  for  us  a  constant  source  of  merriment,  since  when  he 
finally  succeeded  in  talking  intelligibly  be  spoke  at  the  top  of  his 
voice. 

A  SHORTAGE  OF  WATER. 

On  the  second  day  out  our  water  fell  short  and  following  the  ad- 
vice of  our  native  carriers  we  left  the  main  track,  about  500  yards, 
and  entered  a  cave,  through  the  roof  of  which  the  water  dripped  and 
fell  into  calabashes,  which  had  been  provided  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  travellers.  Here  we  found  a  good  supply  of  pure,  cool  water. 
Just  before  reaching  the  cave  we  came  to  a  tomato  patch.  Up  to  this 
time  I  had  always  declined  to  eat  tomatoes,  but  now  thirst"  overcame 
my  aversion  and  I  ate  tomatoes,  for  the  first  time,  and  have  never 
since  ceased  to  like  them. 

On  the  third  day  just  before  dark  the  native  carriers  cried  out: 

"Ua  ike  ia  ka  hale" — "A  house  in  sight." 

Mrs.  Gelett  was  borne  on  a  manele,  or  stretcher.  We  soon  reached 
the  house,  which  was  vacated  for  our  accommodation,  there  being 
other  houses  near.  Here,  in  spite  of  a  horde  of  fleas,  we  secured 
needed  rest. 

AT  WAIOHINU,   KAU. 

The  following  morning  we  obtained  horses  and  made  the  best  of 
our  way  to  the  mission  station  of  Waiohinu,  on  the  south  end  of  the 
island.  Arriving  about  noon  we  found  that  the  missionary  was  ab- 
sent. We  took  possession  of  the  house  and  remained  therein  several 
days,  waiting  for  the  rain  to  cease. 


63 

Becoming  impatient  after  five  days,  I  discharged  all  but  four  of 
the  natives,  and  resumed  our  journey  on  horse-back.  The  mission 
house  was  under  the  lea  of  a  high  blufP,  and  rounding  this  we  en- 
countered the  storm  trade-wind  and  a  tremendous  down-pour  of  rain, 
which  in  a  very  short  time  filled  my  boots.  Mrs.  Gelett  being  pro- 
tected by  a  canvas  hood  that  covered  the  manele,  we  kept  on  our 
way  until  about  four  o  'clock  p.  m.  when  we  reached  a  native  village 
called  Waiohinu,  now  a  large  sugar  plantation. 

HOSPITALITY   OF   THE   NATIVES. 

Here  a  hundred  natives  gathered  around  our  little  party,  and  the 
old  deacon  of  the  mission  church  conducted  us  to  a  large  grass-house, 
which  had  a  number  of  rooms.  This  he  consigned  for  our  use.  Food 
was  brought  us — taro,  roast  pork  and  bread  fruit.  These,  with  our 
own  stock  of  provisions,  made  very  good  fare. 

The  rain  continued  the  following  day,  and  we  remained  in  camp. 
On  the  weather-side  of  the  island  it  rains  about  three-fourths  of  the 
time,  for  the  northeast  trade  winds  blow  the  clouds  directly  on  the 
mountains,  which  lower  the  temperature  and  cause  the  rain-fall. 

The  next  day  the  natives  brought  us  roast  pig  and  chicken,  with 
vegetables  and  tropical  fruits.     Still  it  rained. 

ARRIVAL  AT  THE  VOLCANO. 

On  the  fourth  day  the  weather  improved  and  we  started  out  early, 
hoping  to  reach  the  Volcano  House  before  dark.  By  pushing  for- 
ward with  all  speed  we  succeeded,  having  traveled  about  forty  miles. 
Mrs.  Gelett  having  improved,  rode  part  of  the  way  on  horse-back. 
Here  we  remained  over  two  nights.  In  the  morning  we  visited  the 
lava  lake  in  the  crater,  which  is  about  three  miles  from  the  rim,  or 
margin,  near  the  Volcano  House. 

DESCRIPTION  OP  THE   VOLCANO   IN   1848. 

The  visitor  descends  from  the  top  of  the  bluif  about  three  hundred 
feet  to  the  floor  of  the  crater,  and  travels  three  miles  to  the  lake, 
which  at  this  time  was  very  active.  The  crater  is  about  a  mile  wide, 
and  elliptical  in  form. 

We  reached  the  lake  at  about  eleven  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and 
remained  several  hours.  The  lake  was  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  dia- 
meter, and  depressed  about  ten  feet  below  the  floor  of  the  crater. 
The  walls  of  the  lake  were  black  lava  in  ragged  and  jagged  forms. 
Owing  to  the  sulphureous  gas  it  was  not  safe  to  stand  on  the  lea 
side  of  the  lake.  On  this  occasion  the  lake  did  not  overflow  its 
banks. 

I  had  a  pole  to  which  was  attached  an  iron  spoon.  With  this 
ladle  I  dipped  up  two  spoonfuls  of  liquid  red-hot  lava.     It  was  so 


64 

hot  where  I  stood  that  my  boots  and  pants  were  burned  and  after- 
wards, in  consequence,  fell  in  pieces.     But  I  kept  the  lava,  and  still 

have  it. 

I  then  attached  my  pocket-knife  to  the  pole  and  wound  the  hot 
lava  around  the  handle.  Near  the  entrance  to  the  crater  we  were 
guided  to  the  spot  where  three  distinct  echoes  were  heard. 

DESCRIPTION    OF    KILAUEA   IN    1871. 

I  will  here  record  my  recollection  of  a  subsequent  visit  to  Ki- 
lauea  in  1871,  when  the  lake  was  unusually  active  and  overflowing 

its  banks. 

A  number  of  cones  were  found  on  the  crust  of  the  lake.  I  ap- 
proached near  enough  to  extend  a  long  pole  toward  a  cone.  It  caught 
fire  when  within  four  feet  of  the  red-hot  cone.  To  approach  these 
cones  I  was  obliged  to  walk  ten  rods  on  the  hot  lava.  My  feet  being 
uncomfortably  hot,  I  retreated  on  the  double-quick  and  removed  my 
boots  as  soon  as  possible.  Their  soles  were  burnt  and  soon  after 
fell  to  pieces. 

While  I  was  there  the  lava  broke  out  about  twenty  rods  from  where 
I  stood,  with  a  tremendous  roar,  the  column  of  molten  lava  rising 
to  the  height  of  fifty  feet.  No  language  can  describe  the  terrific 
grandeur  of  the  scene. 

Being  alone  and  three  miles  from  the  entrance  to  the  crater,  and 
the  heat  being  intense,  I  thought  it  wise  to  retreat,  and  make  my 
way  back  to  the  Volcano  House. 

AN  EXPERIENCE  IN  THE  CRATER. 

When  about  two  miles  from  the  lake  I  came  to  a  fissure  in  the 
crater  floor  where  one  of  its  sides  had  sunk  below  the  other.  Being 
weary  I  lay  down  and  used  the  higher  side  of  the  fissure  for  a  pillow. 

After  I  had  laid  there  perhaps  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  there 
came  a  sudden  tremor,  or  quiver,  like  an  earthquake,  which  was 
followed  by  a  discharge  of  hot  sulphureous  gas  through  the  fissure, 
nearly  suffocating  me. 

It  is  needless  to  add  that  I  arose  and  resumed  my  retreat  without 
delay. 

The  spectacle  from  the  Volcano  House  by  night  was  magnificent; 
the  darker  the  night  the  grander  the  exhibition. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  VOLCANO  BY  MRS.  GELETT. 

From  Mrs.  Gelett's  journal  I  am  permitted  to  make  the  following 
extracts: 

January  6th,  1848. — It  seemed  as  if  we  should  never  reach  the 
houses  at  the  volcano.  We  were  ' '  almost  there ' '  a  long,  long  while 
before  we  quite  reached  the  place. 


65 

Between  3  and  4  o'clock  p.  m.  we  arrived  at  the  accommodation 
house,  which  stands  at  the  brink  of  the  crater. 

A  man  had  come  from  Hilo  to  have  the  house  open,  and  we  found 
a  blazing  fire  ready  to  warm  and  dry  our  wet  clothing.  The  house 
and  fire-place  are  in  native  style.  A  fire  feels  very  comfortable  in 
this  chilly  atmosphere.  We  have  a  prospect  of  some  dry  bedding 
tonight.  The  lake  looks  very  brilliant  this  evening,  but  we  ladies 
are  too  tired  to  enjoy  it. 

Friday,  January  7th. — Woke  several  times  during  the  night  and 
by  rising  up  in  my  bed  could  look  out  upon  the  burning  lake;  it  was 
very  bright. 

This  morning  was  foggy,  and  we  feared  it  would  continue  so 
during  the  day.  But  the  sun  broke  out  between  9  and  10  o'clock  a. 
m.,  and  we  immediately  prepared  to  descend  into  the  crater.  I  felt 
unable  to  undertake  it,  but  could  not  be  denied. 

The  manele  was  taken  down,  that  I  might  ride  when  it  was  level. 
In  descending  we  had  some  steep  precipices  to  encounter,  and  by  the 
time  I  had  descended  the  first  I  was  glad  to  take  the  manele  until 
we  reached  the  next. 

Upon  the  "black  ledge"  it  was  quite  level,  and  I  walked  and  rode 
as  I  chose,  until  we  reached  the  brink  of  the  lake,  which  is  about 
three  miles  from  the  house. 

MAKING   LAVA    SPECIMENS. 

My  husband  and  John  Green  went  where  the  bank  was  low  and 
dipped  up  some  of  the  burning  mass  with  au  iron  sjjoon,  which  they 
had  attached  to  a  long  pole.  The  spoon  was  swallowed  by  "Pele, " 
and  they  then  got  some  on  the  handle  of  a  jack-knife. 

M5ss  Mills  and  I  sat  down  to  rest,  and  watch  the  liquid  fire.  We 
wished  only  for  the  darkness  of  the  night  to  add  to  the  grandeur 
of  the  scene;  we  wanted  to  have  a  near  view  of  the  waves  which 
were  breaking  against  the  bank  on  which  we  stood,  but  we  did  not 
dare  go  very  near  its  edge,  fearing  it  might  give  way  and  precipitate 
us  into  the  burning  mass. 

The  crust  which  forms  upon  the  surface  afterwards  breaks,  and 
affords  a  fine  view  of  the  brilliant  fire.  In  many  places  jets  were 
cast  up  many  feet  into  the  air,  producing  a  brilliant  display  of  fire- 
works. 

I  was  not  half  satisfied  with  looking  when  my  husband  said  it  was 
time  to  return,  and  we  might  be  shut  in  by  the  fog.  Ascending  the 
precipices  I  found  it  very  fatiguing  work.  It  seemed  as  if  I  should 
never  reach  the  house.     It  is  very  cold  this  evening. 

AT    THE    SULPHUR    BANKS. 

Eighth. — Arose  before  it  was  fairly  light  and  had  a  fine  view  of 
the  lake.     The  morning  was  fair,  and  we  went  to  visit  the  sulphur 

15 


66 

bank  before  breakfast.  It  is  outside  the  crater,  and  but  a  short  walk 
from  the  house.  Sulphur  might  be  obtained  here  in  any  quantity. 
The  hot  steam  issues  from  the  ground  in  many  places,  and  we  could 
hear  the  sulphur  burning  underneath.  It  was  so  hot  in  some  places 
we  could  hardly  endure  it. 

We  obtained  some  specimens,  but  none  so  good  as  we  wished.  The 
frequent  visitors  do  not  allow  it  to  form  perfect  crystals. 

As  soon  as  we  could  get  ready  after  breakfast  we  started  on  our 
way  from  the  volcano.  I  rode  on  horse-back  for  a  change.  It  soon 
began  to  rain,  and  did  not  cease  until  we  reached  our  stopping  place. 

AT  THE  HALF-WAY  HOUSE,   OLAA. 

We  got  off  our  horses  but  once  during  the  ride  of  fifteen  miles.  I 
was  about  used  up  when  we  reached  the  half-way  house.  The  road 
was  very  rough  and  muddy,  and  we  could  only  walk  our  horses.  We 
had  some  woods  to  pass  through,  and  a  good  deal  of  brush. 

The  fern  is  very  abundant  in  this  region;  it  grows  in  some  in- 
stances fifteen  or  twenty  feet  high.  From  it  the  pulu  is  obtained, 
which  is  used  for  beds,  pillows,  etc.,  and  the  root  is  used  for  food 
in  seasons  of  scarcity. 

We  found  the  half-way  house  neat  and  comfortable,  but  were  dis- 
appointed at  not  finding  a  fire  to  warm  and  dry  us. 

Ninth. — Sabbath.  Dull  and  rainy.  I  was  quite  ill,  and  unable  to 
sit  up  much.  Never  spent  a  Sabbath  under  such  circumstances.  The 
Bible  was  our  only  book,  and  we  had  but  one  copy  of  that. 

THE  TRIP  FROM   OLAA  TO   HILO. 

Tenth. — A  fine  day,  and  quite  cheering  to  the  company  of  travelers. 
Got  ready  to  start  on  our  way  at  7  a.  m.  The  sick  woman  that  we 
found  in  the  next  house  when  we  arrived,  seemed  to  brighten  up 
and  crawled  out  to  see  us  before  we  left.  After  leaving  the  half- 
way house  the  road  was  very  rough,  but  it  grew  better  as  we  ap- 
proached Hilo,  except  that  it  was  rather  muddy.  We  enjoyed  this 
day's  journey  very  much. 

In  a  little  grove  of  young  cocoanut  trees  we  halted  to  take  our 
cold  dinner,  and  ate  it  with  good  relish.  We  had  plenty  of  native 
spectators  the  while. 

From  there  our  way  lay  through  thick  woods,  and  I  felt  cheerful 
enough  to  join  the  birds  in  their  songs.  A  few  miles  before  reach- 
ing the  station  at  Hilo  we  left  the  woods.  In  going  through  a  deep 
muddy  pond,  my  horse  undertook  to  prance  a  little,  and  gave  myself, 
and  husband  also,  a  good  spattering. 

REMINISCENCES  OP  MR.  LYMAN. 

From  the  volcano  we  went  to  Hilo,  where  the  Uncas  lay  at  anchor. 
At  Hilo  we  were  entertained  by  Rev.  Mr.  Lyman,  a  missionary  of 


67 

considerable  prominence,  who  conducted  a  school  for  the  education 
of  boys.  It  was  one  of  Mr.  Lyman 's  sons,  who,  many  years  after 
our  visit,  married  the  little  curly-headed  girl  mentioned  in  the  chapter 
treating  of  my  first  visit  to  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  and  whose  wed- 
ding I  attended.  This  couple  are  still  living  at  Hilo.  They  are  now 
well  along  in  years,  and  have  a  large  family  of  children,  two  of  the 
boys  being  twins. 

I  once  met  Mr.  Lyman,  when  he  was  a  young  and  single  man,  on 
a  ranch  in  the  southeastern  part  of  Hawaii.  I  was  traveling  on 
horseback  and  arrived  at  the  ranch  just  before  night.  He  was  stop- 
ping alone  in  a  little  house  on  the  ranch,  but  made  me  welcome  to 
the  best  accommodation  there  was. 

AN   EARTHQUAKE   EXPERIENCE. 

During  the  evening  we  were  sitting  at  a  table,  and  he  was  reading 
the  news  from  a  paper  I  had  brought,  when  there  came  the  sharp 
shock  of  an  earthquake.  Mr.  Lyman  did  not  take  his  eyes  from 
the  paper  but  reached  out  one  hand  and  took  hold  of  the  lamp,  to 
keep  it  from  upsetting.  When  he  had  finished  the  sentence  he  was 
reading,  he  remarked: 

"That  was  one  of  them." 

I  made  no  demonstration  of  surprise,  thinking  I  could  stand  it  if 
he  could  .  But  if  he  had  not  taken  hold  of  the  lamp  it  would  surely 
have  been  upset. 

The  people  on  the  island  of  Hawaii,  near  the  volcano  of  Mauna 
Loa,  had  become  so  accustomed  to  earthquakes,  that  they  scarcely 
gave  them  a  passing  thought.  It  would  be  impossible  for  me  not  to 
diverge  at  this  point  from  the  regular  order  of  happenings;  the 
subject  leads  the  memory  into  by-ways. 

RACING   WITH   AN    AVALANCHE. 

The  ranch  of  which  I  have  just  spoken  was  near  a  spur  of  moun- 
tains running  down  from  the  volcano  of  Mauna  Loa. 

During  the  great  earthquake  of  1868  a  part  of  this  spur  broke  off 
and  spread  itself  over  the  country  towards  the  sea  for  a  distance 
of  several  miles. 

Part  of  this  ranch,  as  also  were  many  others,  was  submerged  by 
the  huge  landslide.  Mr.  Lyman  was  not  living  on  the  ranch  at 
that  time,  but  I  passed  over  the  place  a  few  days  after  the  slide, 
and  was  told  by  a  foreigner  who  lived  near  there,  who  witnessed  the 
slide,  that  a  drove  of  horses  and  cattle  were  swallowed  up  by  the 
mighty  avalanche  of  rocks  and  earth. 

He  spoke  in  particular  of  one  young  horse  that  ran  a  race  for 
life,   with  the   wave   of  boulders   of  the   slide,   and   escaped   unhurt. 

At  the  time  of  this  great  earthquake  that  shook  down  mountains, 


68 

there  was  a  tidal  wave,  and  a  native  village,  located  near  this  ranch, 
was  swept  into  the  sea,  and  a  large  number  of  people  perished. 

Seventy-nine  persons  and  two  hundred  houses  are  said  to  have  been 
destroyed  on  the  island  by  this  earthquake. 

CAPTAIN  BROWN  AND  THE   LAVA  FLOW   OF   1868. 

I  will  here  recount  a  story  of  the  Hawaiian  earthquake  of  1868, 
that  was  as  remarkable  as  any  that  came  to  my  notice.  On  the  south 
slope  of  Mauna  Loa  lived  Captain  Brown  and  his  family — wife  and 
several  children.  He  had  one  of  the  finest  ranches  on  the  Island. 
He  had  built  a  large  and  handsome  stone  house  and  had  well-kept  and 
luxuriant  grounds,  and  from  every  appearance,  was  pleasantly  located 
for  the  balance  of  his  life.  But  he  had  not  calculated  that  he  was 
living  over  a  boiling  volcano,  that  was  more  than  likely  to  seek  a 
vant  hole  some  day. 

The  earthquake  tremors  continued  several  days.  During  those 
days  at  times  when  the  human  body  could  not  feel  the  seismic  waves, 
water  in  a  goblet  was  constantly  agitated. 

At  intervals  the  ground  would  give  a  sudden  jerk,  upsetting 
furniture. 

Captain  Brown  and  family,  fearing  their  house  might  fall  down, 
moved  out  in  the  yard;  and  it  was  well  they  did,  because  shortly 
after  they  had  vacated  the  house,  an  earthquake  with  more  jerk 
than  any  preceding  ones,  threw  out  of  the  house  walls  the  under 
stones,  causing  the  whole  structure  to  collapse. 

CAPTAIN  BROWN  AND  THE  LORD. 

Captain  Brown  was  a  very  profane  man,  and  when  the  house  fell 
down,  he  said  to  his  wife,  "'The  Lord  can't  get  it  any  lower,  let's 
move  back  into  the  house."  Before  he  could  reach  the  ruins  of  his 
house,  however,  there  was  another  and  still  sharper  shock,  which 
scrambled  the  ruins,  and  turned  the  cook  stove,  which  they  had 
moved  out  into  the  yard,  bottom  side  up. 

The  old  captain  said:  "The  Lord  has  done  his  utmost  now." 
But  hardly  had  they  righted  the  stove  when  there  was  a  flash  of 
light  that  nearly  blinded  them,  and  they  could  hear  and  feel  the 
surging  of  the  lava  under  their  feet. 

With  all  possible  speed  Captain  Brown  and  his  family  fled  to  a  hill 
not  far  distant,  and  gaining  its  top  and  looking  back,  they  saw  a 
stream  of  livid  lava  pouring  from  a  rent  in  the  ground  not  many 
rods  above  the  spot  where  their  beautiful  house  stood  only  a  few 
hours  before. 

They  were  in  a  place  of  safety,  if  there  was  any  safety  for  them, 
and    with    uncontrollable    fascination    they    watched    the    red    river 


69 

pour   down   the   hill,   and   over   the   ruins   of   their   home,   over   their 
beautiful  grounds,   and   on   down  towards  the   sea. 

As  soon  as  they  could  take  their  eyes  from  the  river  of  lava,  Cap- 
tain Brown  and  his  family  walked  six  miles  to  the  mission  station 
at  Waiohinu.  The  next  day  he  put  his  family  on  board  a  vessel  bound 
for  Honolulu,  and  bade  them  bood-bye,  saying  he  must  go  back  and 
see  if  he  could  save  some  of  the  stock. 

CATTLE  DESTROYED  BY  THE  LAVA. 

Captain  Brown  afterwards  told  me  that  the  next  day,  making  his 
way  back  to  his  ranch,  he  saw  a  total  of  several  hundreds  of  cattle 
scattered  about  on  little  hills  that  were  surrounded  by  the  lava.  The 
lava  kept  rising  higher  and  higher,  and  one  by  one  the  poor  cattle 
were  crowded  off  into  the  fiery  liquid. 

As  each  animal  disappeared  there  would  be  a  puff  of  smoke,  and 
while  he  yet  watched,  the  last  animal  in  sight  disappeared. 

A  short  time  before  the  earthquake,  a  daughter  of  the  Brown 
family  died,  and  was  buried  on  the  ranch.  Saying  no  child  of  his 
should  rest  in  such  a  grave,  the  old  Captain,  with  the  help  of  a 
couple  of  laborers,  set  to  work  to  uncover  the  grave  and  to  remove 
the  body  to  a  regular  cemetery. 

At  the  time  of  the  earthquake  Captain  Brown  had  a  pet  horse 
staked  out  in  the  front  yard.  He  supposed  as  a  matter  of  course  that 
this  horse  had  perished  with  the  other  stock.  So  what  was  his  sur- 
prise, more  than  a  month  after  the  catastrophe,  to  find  the  horse 
grazing  up  in  the  hills.  The  animal  still  had  a  piece  of  rope  around 
his  neck,  but  his  coat  of  hair  was  nearly  all  burned  off. 

The  lava  had  poured  from  a  new  fissure  in  the  slope  of  Mauna  Loa, 
nearly  three  miles  long,  and  ten  miles  from  the  ocean.  It  spread 
over  the  entire  distance  to  the  ocean,  and  extended  the  shore  line 
an  eighth  of  a  mile  out  into  the  sea. 

FROM  LAVA  FLOW  TO  FLOOD. 

Captain  Brown,  heaping  maledicatious  upon  the  islands,  removed 
his  family  to  Washington  Territory,  and  settled  upon  a  ranch  there. 
I  met  one  of  his  daughters  in  San  Francisco  years  afterwards,  and 
from  her,  and  from  other  sources,  I  learned  that  during  a  river 
freshet,  Captain  Brown's  house  was  swept  away,  and  one  of  his 
daughters  only  escaped  drowning  by  the  heroic  efforts  of  a  young 
man,  who  afterwards  married  the  girl  whose  life  he  had  saved. 

AT   THE   LADRONE   ISLANDS. 

Again  picking  up  the  thread  of  the  narrative,  after  our  visit  of 
a  few  days  at  Hilo  we  sailed  for  Honolulu;  Mrs.  Gelett  having  dis- 


70 

embarked,  I  pursued  my  voyage  to  tlie  Japan  Sea,  touching  at  Grigan, 
one  of  the  Ladrone  Islands,  south  latitude  19  degrees,  longitude 
145  degrees  40   minutes   east. 

Grigan  is  small  but  heavily  timbered,  and  abounds  in  bread-fruit, 
bananas,   jack-fruit,   yams   and   sweet-potatoes. 

The  population  in  1847  was  about  one  hundred,  among  whom  were 
two  Englishmen,  with  native  wives.  The  natives  were  friendly,  and 
danced   a   hideous   war-dance   for   my   diversion.      They   were   naked. 

We  took  on  board  fifteen  hogs,  fattened  on  cocoa-nuts.  One,  when 
dressed,  weighed  400  pounds.  Guam,  about  300  miles  south  of  Grigan, 
is  the  largest  island  of  this  group.  It  is  twenty-six  miles  long  and 
has  a  fine  harbor.  Leaving  Grigan  we  steered  to  the  northwest, 
passing  just  south  of  the  Lewchew  Islands,  into  the  Yellow  Sea. 

OVERWHELMED  BY  BIRDS. 

Passing  through  the  Yellow  Sea  we  entered  the  Straits  of  Corea 
about  four  o'clock  one  afternoon;  the  weather  was  threatening.  Here 
occurred  the  most  remarkable  thing  I  ever  experienced.  Birds, 
chiefly  barn-swallows,  came  aboard  the  ship  by  thousands.  They 
alighted  on  me,  hid  under  my  clothes,  piled  up  and  on  one  another, 
filled  the  cabin,  dived  down  into  the  hold,  hid  under  the  boats  and 
sought  shelter  in  every  place. 

At  about  ten  o'clock  that  night  the  gale  struck  us  from  the  south- 
east. The  sea  was  very  heavy,  occasionally  breaking  over  the  ship. 
I  knew  that  we  were  in  the  vicinity  of  Tsu  Island,  in  the  straits,  and 
the  storm  being  so  heavy,  and  there  being  so  many  elements  of 
danger  about  us,  I  walked  the  deck,  muffled  in  storm  clothes,  all 
night,  not  being  willing  to  trust  the  management  of  the  ship  to 
other   hands. 

"We  ran  all  night  before  the  gale,  and  at  daybreak  sighted  the 
south  end  of  Tsu  Island,  which  lies  in  the  middle  of  the  strait.  All 
day  we  ran  along  the  lea  of  the  island,  until  4  p.  m.,  when  we  passed 
the  north  end. 

SAVED  A  SHIP  FROM  DESTRUCTION. 

Shortly  after  passing  the  island,  we  sighted  a  ship,  running  be- 
fore the  wind  directly  for  the  coast  of  Corea.  I  knew  the  ship  was 
out  of  its  reckoning,  and  that  if  she  steered  on  that  course  for  a 
few  hours,  she  would  be  a  wreck  on  the  rocky  shore  with  a  foggy, 
dark  night  to  add  to  the  horrors  of  the  situation.  I  set  my  colors, 
and  ran  them  up  and  down.  The  ship,  seeing  my  signals,  hauled 
her  wind,  and  steered  on  the  same  course  I  was  taking. 

The  next, day  I  spoke  the  ship,  and  the  captain  told  me  that  if  it 
hadn  't  been  for  my  signals  he  would  surely  have  run  his  ship  on 
the  rocks,  as  he  had  reckoned  himself  to  be  on  the  east  side  of  the 
straits. 


71 

The  wind  having  somewhat  moderated,  we  steered  northeast  into 
the  Japan  Sea.  The  birds  remained  aboard  until  the  following  day, 
when,  the  weather  having  cleared,  they  came  forth  from  their  hiding 
places  and  flew  away. 

WHALING  IN  THE   JAPAN   SEA. 

In  a  few  days  we  fell  in  with  whales  and  our  season's  work  began. 
We  took  about  1,000  gallons  of  oil  in  the  Japan  Sea,  and  then,  losing 
the  whales,  we  steered  to  the  north,  running  up  the  Gulf  of  Tartary, 
some  300  miles.  Seeing  no  whales,  nor  the  terrible  sea-serpents, 
which  are  said  by  some  imaginative  persons  to  abound  in  this  Gulf, 
we  steered  south  and  passed  out  of  the  Japan  Sea  through  the  straits 
La  Terouse,  into  the  Yesso  Sea. 

Sailing  along  the  north  coast  of  Japan,  sighting  the  Kuril  Islands, 
thence  north  to  the  latitude  of  47  degrees,  where  we  fell  in  with 
whales,  and,  by  September  had  taken  1,000  barrels,  which,  with  the 
1,000  barrels  previously  taken,  and  about  30,000  pounds  of  bone, 
made   a  full  cargo. 

A    REMARKABLE    AIR    CURRENT. 

We  then  put  away  for  Honolulu,  passing  into  the  North  Pacific- 
through  the  Vries  Straits.  In  the  evening,  about  sundown,  we  passed 
out  of  these  straits.  For  three  hours  after  passing  the  straits  it  was 
perfectly  calm  on  deck,  while  there  was  a  strong  breeze  aloft  that 
drove  the  ship  through  a  perfectly  smooth  sea,  at  the  rate  of  about 
eight  miles  an  hour.  In  my  experience  this  was  an  unusual  thing 
in  air  currents.  We  reached  Honolulu  on  the  first  day  of  October, 
1848. 

THE    CALIFORNIA   GOLD   FEVER. 

While  the  Uncas  lay  at  Honolulu  after  our  return  from  the  Japan 
Sea,  a  vessel  arrived  from  California,  with  gold  dust  aboard,  to  be  re- 
shipped  to  Valparaiso.  As  I  was  bound  for  that  port,  I  took  it  on 
as  freight.  The  gold  was  packed  in  small  wooden  boxes.  At  that 
time  there  were  no  vessels  plying  up  and  down  the  western  coast 
of  the  American  continent. 

This  gold  was  said  to  be  the  first  shipped  from  the  new  fields  of 
California,  and  I  never  had  reason  to  doubt  the  truth  of  the  state- 
ment. 

The  California  gold  fever  was  raging  at  the  Hawaiian  Island  when 
we  arrived  there  from  our  whaling  voyage,  and  two  of  my  men,  one 
of  them  the  first  mate,  took  the  fever  and  got  their  discharge  from 
the  Uncas,  that  they  might  go  to  California.  Both  men,  after  staying 
in  California  awhile,  returned  to  New  Bedford,  without  having  made 
their  fortunes.  They  found  it  harder  work  to  dig  gold  than  to  catch 
whales. 


UITATE,    AN   ISLAND   PARADISE. 

After  remaining  at  Honolulu  five  weeks,  taking  Mrs.  Gelett  aboard, 
on  the  seventh  day  of  November,  1848,  we  sailed  for  New  Bedford. 
We  touched  at  Uitate,  one  of  the  Hervey  Islands,  near  latitude  19 
degrees  south,  longitude  159  degrees  10  minutes  west,  where  we 
found  an  English  missionary,  Eev.  Mr.  Eowell,  who  entertained  us 
very  hospitably.  He  said  the  people  were  all  Christianized  and  that 
he  would  be  personally  responsible  for  all  that  might  be  taken  from 
the  boat,  (I  had  taken  ashore  a  number  of  things,  such  as  cutlery, 
and  cloths,  to  exchange  for  fruit,  vegetables  and  other  supplies). 
The  island  was  indeed  a  veritable  Paradise. 

From  there  we  sailed  for  Valparaiso,  where  I  delivered  to  the 
consignees  the  fifty  thousand  dollars  in  gold  dust.  I  arrived  off  the 
coast  of  Valparaiso  on  the  morning  of  January  26,  1849,  in  a  dense 
fog.  I  spoke  a  small  coasting  craft,  that  reached  Valparaiso  about 
three  hours  ahead  of  me,  and  reported  a  ship  coming  in  loaded  with 
g-old  from  California. 

I  had  not  been  at  anchor  ten  minutes  before  the  deck  of  the  Uncas 
was  covered  with  visitors  from  the  shore,  and  "El  Ore!  El  Oro!  " 
was  heard  everywhere. 

MEETING  A  FRIEND  IN  VALPARAISO. 

While  at  Valparaiso  I  attended  an  examination  of  an  English 
school.  In  conversation  with  one  of  the  lady  teachers  I  learned  that 
she  was  from  Providence,  E.  I.  Asking  her  if  she  knew  Samuel 
Hunt,  of  Providence,  she  replied,  "I  ought  to,  he  married  my  sister." 
Samuel  Hunt  is  my  nephew,  said  I. 

No  one  who  has  not  traveled  abroad  can  appreciate  the  pleasure 
of  meeting,  in  a  foreign  land,  old  friends,  or  those  who  knew  them. 

We  spent  eight  days  at  Valparaiso,  where  Mrs.  Gelett  and  myself 
received  much  attention.  We  then  sailed  for  home  around  Cape 
Horn,  and  arrived  at  New  Bedford  in  March,  1849. 

A    VOYAGE    TO    THE    ARCTIC    OCEAN. 

I  remained  at  my  home  in  Kingston,  Mass.,  eighteen  months. 

My  next  voyage  was  in  the  new  fast-sailing  clipper  ship  Arctic, 
of  Fairhaven.  She  was  in  all  respects  well  equipped  for  a  three- 
years'  voyage.  New  officers  and  crew  were  shipped  by  the  agent. 
Our  destination  was  the  Arctic  Ocean,  which  hitherto  I  had  not  seen. 

We  sailed  on  the  10th  of  December,  1850.  Being  late  for  the 
whaling  season  we  made  our  course  direct  to  Cape  Horn.  Owing  to 
head  winds  and  calms  we  didn't  reach  the  Cape  until  the  first  of 
March. 


73 

A   NARROW   ESCAPE   IN   A   GALE. 

Off  Eiver  de  la  Plata  we  encountered  a  heavy  gale  from  the  south, 
which  came  on  so  suddenly  as  to  strike  the  ship  aback,  when  running 
before  a  light  north  wind. 

I  had  given  my  second  officer,  who  had  charge  of  the  deck  at  the 
time,  orders  to  let  me  know  if  he  saw  it  lightning  in  the  south.  He 
neglected  to  do  so,  though  flashes  o±  lightning  had  been  seen  for 
more  than  an  hour  when  the  gale  struck  the  shij)  aback. 

I  jumped  on  deck  in  a  minute,  but  none  too  soon,  as  I  met  a  rush 
of   water   coming   down   the   cabin   gangway. 

When  I  gained  the  deck  all  hands  seemed  paralized.  I  gave  the 
order  to  let  go  the  halyards  fore  and  aft,  myself  letting  go  the  main 
topsail,  main  topgallant  and  main  royal  halyards. 

As  the  sails  came  down  the  ship  slowly  gained  her  equilibrium  and 
was  put  under  storm  sails. 

Had  I  not  gained  the  deck  the  ship  would  doubtless  have  gone 
down,  stern  foremost,  as  many  a  ship  has  done  with  no  one  left  to 
tell  the  tale. 

After  two  days  the  gale  abated  and  let  us  go  on  our  course.  In 
a  few  days  we  sighted  the  Falkland  Islands. 

Having  lost  confidence  in  my  second  officer  I  usually  slept  with  one 
eye  open  when  he  had  charge  of  the  deck. 

ROUNDING    CAPE    HORN. 

Passing  through  the  straits  of  Le  Maire  we  came  up  to  old  Cape 
Horn,  which  stands  out  in  bold  relief,  and  once  seen  is  never  for- 
gotten. With  a  spanking  breeze  from  the  northeast  we  steered  on 
our  course.  It  is  not  often  that  ships  catch  a  fair  wind  doubling 
this  cape,  and  when  they  do,  the  most  is  made  of  it.  The  Arctic 
had  all  her  sails  spread,  running  twelve  miles  an  hour.  Four  other 
ships  were  in  sight,  steering  the  same  course  with  us. 

The  night  came  on  very  dark,  with  heavy  leaden  clouds,  which  are 
unwelcome  visitors  to  sailors,  especially  off  this  cape. 

THE  SHIP  ON  HER  BEAM  ENDS. 

At  11  p.  m.  I  saw  a  sharp  flash  of  lightning  in  the  south.  Without 
delay  I  called  all  hands  and  gave  the  order  to  take  in  all  sail  as 
quickly  as  possible.  This  was  done,  but  not  too  soon,  for  the  last 
man  had  not  got  down  from  aloft  when  the  gale  from  the  south 
struck  the  ship,  throwing  her  on  her  beam  ends.  The  force  of  the 
wind  was  terrific,  and  did  not  abate  for  four  hours. 

When  daylight  came  our  four  neighbors  were  in  sight,  all  of  them 
crippled.  One  had  lost  his  foremast,  main  and  mizzen  top-mast,  and 
jib-boom;    another    had    lost    fore    and    mizzen    top-mast,    main    top- 


74 

gallant  mast,  and  jib-boom.     The  fourth  had  escaped  with  the  loss 
of  all  three  topgallant  masts  and  jib-boom. 

Not  a  ropeyarn  was  broken  on  the  Arctic.  I  had  navigated  south- 
ern seas  too  long  to  be  caught  napping. 

When  north  winds  are  blowing  in  high  southern  latitudes  and  light- 
ning is  seen  in  the  south,  it  is  safe  to  take  in  sail  as  quickly  as 
possible. 

By  10  o'clock  the  next  morning  the  gale  had  so  far  abated  as  to 
allow  us  to  make  sail  and  go  on  our  course  under  close-reef  topsail 
and  courses.  For  three  days,  however,  we  had  foul  weather,  with 
frequent  squalls  of  snow,  which  allowed  the  boys  to  have  frequent 
games  of  snow-balling. 

AT  HONOLULU  AND  OFF  TO  THE  ARCTIC. 

Nothing  unusual  happened  on  our  way  to  the  Sandwich  Islands. 
Arriving  there  we  first  touched  at  the  island  of  Maui,  where  we 
took  aboard  recruits  for  a  six-months'  cruise.  After  a  short  stay 
on  Maui,  and  then  touching  at  Honolulu,  we  sailed  for  the  Arctic. 
The  passage  north,  till  we  sighted  the  Fox  Islands  was  without  event, 
other  than  the  routine  of  ship  life. 

After  sighting  the  Fox  Islands  (latitude  54  degrees,  longitude  165 
degrees),  one  morning,  a  thick  fog  enveloped  us,  and  we  saw  no  more 
land. 

We  shaped  our  course  and  sailed  through  the  Ounimak  passage. 
Later  we  sighted  Pribylov  Islands.  Being  anxious  to  reach  my 
destination,  I  pushed  on  until  we  made  St.  Matthews  Island,  north 
latitude  601/2  degrees,  longitude  172  degrees  west,  where  we  saw 
many  polar  bears  on  shore.  These  bears  are  brought  down  on  ice 
fields  from  the  Arctic  Ocean,  and  find  refuge  on  the  islands. 

FENCED   OUT   BY   ICE   FOR   TWO   WEEKS. 

Eeaching  St.  Lawrence  Island,  with  several  other  ships  we  were 
delayed  there  a  couple  of  weeks  because  of  a  barrier  of  ice  that 
extended  from  Cape  Thaddeus,  on  the  coast  of  Arctic  Eussia  to  St. 
Lawrence  Island,  and  continued  from  the  island  to  the  coast  of 
Russian  America,  making  an  impassable  fence  of  ice  all  the  way 
across  the  ocean  at  that  point.  While  ice-bound  at  the  island  I  went 
ashore  and  bought  a  quantity  of  fox  and  seal  furs. 

The  ice  finally  broke  away  near  the  west  end  of  the  island,  and 
with  five  other  ships  the  Arctic  passed  through  to  the  north  side  of 
the  island,  where  in  a  bay  we  found  the  English  warship  Douglass, 
with  a  tender,  at  anchor. 

HEMMED    IN    BY    THE    ICE    PACK. 

Our  experience  in  this  bay  was  both  exciting  and  monotonous,  if 
such  contradictory  terms  can  go  well  together.     After  we  had  passed 


75 

through  the  ice  barrier,  it  closed  again,  and  we  were  practicably 
hemmed  in.  The  weather  was  very  bad — wind,  fog  and  rough  water. 
For  six  days  the  six  ships  moved  slowly  about  in  the  bay,  watch- 
ing for  a  chance  to  get  through  the  ice  in  some  direction,  either 
back  to  the  south  of  the  island,  from  where  we  had  come,  or  on  to 
the  north.  On  the  sixth  day  we  worked  back  to  the  south  of  the 
island,  and  in  company  with  a  large  number  of  ships,  perhaps  thirty, 
cruised  along  the  coast  for  a  few  days,  during  which  time  one  ship 
went  to  pieces  on  the  shore.  A  northeast  gale  cleared  a  passage  in 
the  ice,  and  we  again  headed  for  the  north. 

AN   ICEBERG   EXPLOSION. 

Passing  St.  Lawrence  Island  we  anchored  in  St.  Lawrence  Bay, 
where  we  took  on  board  about  twenty  tons  of  ballast,  the  ship  being 
' '  cranky. ' ' 

While  lying  in  St.  Lawrence  Bay,  an  iceberg,  fifty  feet  high,  that 
had  broken  away  from  a  glacier  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  drifted  down 
to  within  a  half  of  a  mile  of  the  ship  and  exploded  with  a  loud 
noise,  breaking  in  pieces  as  large  as  a  ship's  hull. 

Eesuming  our  voyage  from  St.  Lawrence  Bay,  where  the  iceberg 
exploded,  near  our  ship,  when  in  the  north  part  of  Behring  Strait, 
in  company  with  nine  whaling  ships,  we  encountered  a  solid  barrier 
of  ice  reaching  across  the  strait. 

SEVEN   SHIPS   OUT  OP  NINE  LOST  IN  THE  ICE. 

The  next  day  a  gale  of  wind  came  up  from  the  south,  blowing 
directly  on  the  ice. 

I  put  the  ship  under  close-reefed  top-sails,  reefed  course,  reefed 
spanker  and  fore  and  main  spencer. 

The  gale  continued  for  seventy-two  hours,  during  which  time  I 
never  closed  my  eyes,  making  my  longest  abstinence  from  sleep. 

Seven  of  the  nine  ships  went  onto  the  ice  and  were  lost.  Their 
masts  fell  on  the  ice  and  their  crews  thereby  escaped. 

NO    SLEEP   FOR   72   HOURS. 

During  these  three  days  and  nights  I  did  not  leave  the  deck.  The 
helmsman  was  lashed  to  the  wheel.  The  water  was  cold,  its  temper- 
ature being  40  degrees,  and  the  seas  swept  the  deck,  from  stem  to 
stern. 

Finally  the  storm  abated,  but  having  so  long  been  deprived  of 
sleep,  I  was  unable  to  sleep  when  the  opportunity  was  presented. 
Finally  I  took  an  opiate  and  ordered  the  mate  to  awake  me  after 
six  hours. 

When  the  time  arrived,  they  could  not  arouse  me.  "We'll  let 
him  sleep  a  couple  of  hours  longer,"  said  the  mate.     When  the  two 


76 

hours  had  passed  and  I  did  not  then  awake,  they  became  alarmed 
and  renewed  their  efforts  to  awaken  me;  but  ten  hours  had  elapsed 
from  the  time  I  fell  asleep  before  I  became  conscious  again. 

Mv  nerves  never  fully  recovered  from  the  strain  of  those  seventy- 
two  sleepless  hours  in  Behring  Strait. 

WHALES  FRIGHTENED   AWAY. 

In  a  few  days  the  ice  broke  up  and  we  steered  north  to  N.  Lat.  70°, 
where  we  again  met  a  solid  barrier  of  field  ice,  consisting  of  hum- 
mocks, and  cakes  rising  from  one  to  fifteen  feet  in  height  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  We  cruised  along  the  ice  toward  Icy  Cape  looking 
for  whales,  but  there  being  so  many  ships,  the  whales  had  been  fright- 
ened from  their  usual  feeding  ground. 

MIDNIGHT  SUN   PUZZLES  THE  CHICKENS. 

Ships  on  a  long  cruise  always  carry  chickens  on  board  to  help  out 
the  larder.  While  in  the  Arctic  Ocean,  the  land  of  the  midnight  sun, 
our  chickens  were  "all  at  sea,"  sure  enough.  They  didn't  know 
when  to  go  to  bed,  and  showed  so  much  anxiety  about  the  matter,  that 
we  fixed  up  a  dark  place  for  them,  and  put  them  in  there  at  six 
0  'clock  each  night,   and   took   them  out   again   about   five   o  'clock  in 


the  morning. 


TRYING  TO  HARPOON  A   POLAR  BEAR. 


One  day  we  saw  a  white  bear  swimming  in  the  water  about  a  mile 
from  the  ice  barrier.  We  concluded  we  would  like  to  capture  him,  and 
lowered  a  boat  and  gave  chase,  intending  to  harpoon  him.  The  bear 
kept  out  of  our  way,  and  gave  us  a  lively  chase  for  a  couple  of  hours, 
before  we  gave  it  up  as  a  bad  job.  When  we  were  almost  in  harpoon- 
ing distance,  the  bear  would  dive,  going  very  deep  into  the  water, 
and  come  to  the  surface  out  of  our  reach.  These  polar  bears  swim 
as  well  as  ducks,  and  go  out  and  dive  in  the  water  in  search  of  fish 
for  food.  They  are  always  found,  when  away  from  land,  within  a 
short  distance  of  floating  ice. 

A  FIGHT   WITH   A    BULL    WALRUS. 

We  saw  many  schools  of  walruses,  and  captured  many  of  them.  We 
came  near  being  over-matched  by  a  bull  walrus  one  day.  We  had 
harpooned  a  cow,  and  had  her  in  tow  of  the  boat.  The  bull,  defend- 
ing his  mate,  attacked  the  boat,  running  his  tusks  through  it.  If  we 
hadn't  speedily  succeeded  in  killing  him  with  lances,  he  would  surely 
have  swamped  the  boat. 

It  was  little  ice  and  many  whales  the  previous  season,  and  much 
ice  and  few  whales  this  season,  and,  disgusted,  on  the  first  day  of 


77 

September  I  put  away  for  the  Sandwich  Islands,  without  having  tak- 
en a  single  whale. 

One  ship  that  put  away  with  me  was  never  heard  from;  she  was 
probably  wrecked  on  the  Fox  Islands  and  all  hands  perished. 

20  SHIPS   IN   A    KONA   STORM    AT   LAHAINA. 

We  arrived  at  the  Sandwich  Islands  about  October  1.  While  at 
Lahaina  recruiting,  there  came  on  a  gale  from  the  south,  blowing  on 
shore. 

There  were  some  twenty  ships  at  anchor.  Many  of  them  got  under 
way,  as  it  was  not  safe  to  remain  there  at  anchor  during  a  southerly 
gale.  A  number  of  shijjs  barely  escaped  being  wrecked.  I  got  the 
Arctic  under  way  in  time  to  escape  without  trouble.  When  the  gale 
abated  I  returned  and  finished  recruiting,  and  sailed  for  the  coast  of 
Southern  California,  touching  at  Honolulu  for  letters  and  home  news. 

A  WRECK  AT  SEA. 

In  latitude  29°  north,  longitude  121°  west,  I  fell  in  with  a  large 
lumber-loaded  schooner  laying  on  her  side,  or  beam-ends,  with  her 
masts  in  the  water.  Hanging  to  the  main  rigging  was  part  of  a 
woman's  dress,  or  skirt,  of  light-colored  calico.  There  was  a  rope 
tied  around  the  shroud  in  which  the  dress  was  entangled,  having  the 
appearance  of  some  one  having  been  lashed  or  tied  to  the  rigging. 
In  my  mind  there  was  no  doubt  but  some  woman  had  met  her  sad  fate 
there. 

CRUISING    OFF    GUADALUPE. 

We  touched  at  Guadalupe  Island,  in  latitude  29°  north,  longitude 
118°  west,  where  we  obtained  a  fine  lot  of  fresh  fish.  This  island  is 
not  inhabited,  or  was  not  at  that  time,  and  from  its  barren  appear- 
ance I  doubt  if  it  is  worth  pre-empting. 

We  next  sighted  Cape  St.  Lucas,  where  I  went  on  shore  and  pros- 
pected for  the  precious  dust,  which  was  causing  such  a  furore  in  Cali- 
fornia, at  that  time.  My  prospecting,  like  many  others,  ended  in 
disappointment,  and  I  returned  to  my  floating  home,  and,  after  cruis- 
ing a  few  weeks  in  the  Gulf  of  California,  with  no  success,  I  put 
away  for  the  Galapagos  Islands. 

A    TERRIFIC    BATTLE    WITH    A    GIANT    WHALE. 

In  latitude  10°  north  we  saw  and  captured  our  first  whale.  He  was 
a  large  sperm  whale  and  a  warrior.  When  the  harpoons  were  thrown 
into  him  he  became  so  enraged  that  he  would  go  for  a  boat  on  sight. 

Having  chewed  up  two  boats  and  crippled  a  number  of  men,  I  had 
not   an   officer   that  would   tackle   him   again.     Not   being   willing   to 


78 

surrender  and  let  so  valuable  a  prize  escape,  I  took  a  picked  boat's- 
crew  and  renewed  the  attack. 

Getting  directly  ahead  of  the  monster  (a  whale  cannot  see  an  object 
directly  ahead  of  it),  I  ordered  the  men  to  pull,  giving  the  boat  all 
the  speed  possible,  and  when  within  a  few  yards  of  the  whale's  head, 
the  boat  was  sheered  off  so  as  to  pass  by  his  head,  and  before  he  be- 
came aware  of  our  approach  I  was  abreast  of  his  life,  and  plunging 
my  lance  into  his  lungs  I  left  it  there. 

In  a  moment  he  rolled  over,  striking  the  steering  oar  with  his  jaw, 
breaking  the  oar  in  two  and  throwing  the  steersman  overboard.  The 
man  was  a  good  swimmer  and  struck  out  for  dear  life  away  from 
the  whale. 

We  could  not  stop  to  pick  the  man  up,  for  the  whale  was  in  hot 
pursuit  of  us,  and  it  required  all  our  skill  and  strength  to  keep  out 
of  his  reach. 

VICTORY    OVER   A    1000-YEAR-OLD    WHALE. 

After  a  long  and  exciting  chase  the  ' '  old  whale  of  a  thousand 
years"  gave  up  and  turned  fin  out,  dead.  He  was  a  very  old  whale, 
as  his  teeth  were  worn  down  nearly  to  the  gums,  and  some  of  them 
were  much  decayed.  I  have  no  doubt  he  was  one  thousand  years  old. 
He  yielded  us  one  hundred  barrels  of  oil,  worth  at  that  time  more  than 
three  thousand  dollars. 

AT   COCOS  ISLAND— CAPTAIN   KIDD'S   HAUNT. 

Steering  to  the  southeast,  in  a  few  days  we  sighted  Cocos  Island, 
latitude  6  degrees  north,  longitude  87  degrees  west.  I  have  been  told 
that  this  island  has  been  dug  nearly  all  over  in  a  search  for  treasure, 
said  to  be  buried  by  Eobert  Kidd  and  other  piratical  celebrities. 

Concluding  from  my  experience  at  Cape  St.  Lucas  that  my  fort  was 
not  in  gold  hunting,  I  did  not  go  ashore.  The  island  is  a  pile  of 
sand,  with  little  vegetation. 

AT  THE   GALAPAGOS   ISLANDS   AGAIN. 

In  a  few  days  we  sighted  the  Galapagos  Islands,  and  landed  on  Al- 
bermarle,  the  most  westerly  island  of  the  group,  where  I  had  landed 
more  than  ten  years  before  to  obtain  terrapin.  Everything  remained 
as  I  saw  it  on  my  first  visit.  The  same  stepping  stones  to  ascend 
the  steep  and  rocky  bluff.  The  same  old  pelicans  perched  on  the 
rocks,  and  apparently  the  same  sea  gulls  on  the  cliffs,  where  they 
hatch  their  young.  And  when  we  ascended  to  the  high  table-land, 
the  home  of  the  terrapin,  there  we  found  them  in  large  numbers. 


79 

OLD    FRIEND    TERRAPINS. 

The  same  old  monster  was  found  that  we  saw  there  in  18-11,  with 
the  ship  India's  name  marked  on  his  back,  and  with  the  names  of 
many  other  ships;  one  dated  back  to  1820.  I  have  no  doubt  but  the 
same  old  chap  is  there  now,  and  will  be  for  many  years  to  come. 
Their  age  is  said  to  be  from  one  to  one  hundred  years. 

The  large  terrapin  are  not  taken  away,  as  they  cannot  be  carried 
down  the  steep  rocky  way  that  leads  to  the  landing. 

In  fighting,  the  one  of  these  terrapin  that  can  get  its  head  up 
highest,  when  they  meet  face  to  face,  is  master.  The  one  finding 
itself  vanquished,  gives  a  hissing  noise  and  draws  its  head  under  its 
shell.     It  is  very  amusing  to  see  them  in  "mortal"  combat. 

ORANGES   IN   NEW    GRANADA. 

After  taking  on  board  some  twenty  of  these  monster  turtles,  we 
sailed  away,  cruising  oh  or  near  the  equator  until  we  reached  the 
coast  of  New  Granada.  Seeing  a  few  huts  on  the  shore,  I  landed,  and 
found  the  people  friendly.  I  obtained  a  quantity  of  the  best  oranges 
I  have  ever  seen  in  any  part  of  the  world.  Some  of  the  trees  were 
very  large,  measuring  I  should  think,  two  feet  or  more  in  diameter, 
near  the  ground,  and  with  wide  spreading  branches  loaded  with  the 
golden  fruit.  Obtaining  a  boat-load  of  the  delicious  beauties,  I 
returned  to  the  ship  and  put  away  for  what  is  called  the  "off  shore" 
whaling  ground. 

OFFICERS  SCARED  AT  WHALES. 

There  we  saw  whales,  but  my  officers  had  become  so  panic-stricken 
with  the  fighting  whale  I  had  taken,  that  they  would  not  venture  near 
enough  for  the  boat-steerer  to  reach  the  whale  with  his  harpoon; 
but  the  whales  were  frightened  away. 

In  a  few  days  more  whales  were  seen,  and  I  myself  went  in  pur- 
suit. We  soon  came  alongside  of  a  fifty-barrel  whale,  and  in  went 
the  harpoon.  In  a  short  time  I  had  him  fin  out  (dead)  and  alongside 
of  the  ship. 

I  cannot  say  that  I  felt  very  amiable  towards  my  officers;  but 
they  declared  that  they  came  on  a  right  whale  voyage,  and  did  not 
pretend  to  know  the  art  of  sperm  whaling. 

After  cruising  a  few  days  longer,  the  weather  being  bad,  and  see- 
ing no  more  whales,  I  put  away  for  the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  we 
arrived  in  March,  1852. 

WILLIAM  EMERSON  SAILS  TO  THE  OKHOTSK. 

Having  recruited  for  another  northern  voyage,  we  sailed  on  the  first 
of  April  for  the  Okhotsk  Sea.  William  Emerson,  son  of  Eev.  Mr. 
Emerson,  a  missionary  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  accompanying  us  on 
our  voyage,  in  search  of  health. 


80 
DEATH   OF    WILLIAM    EMERSON. 

A  few  weeks  out  from  Honolulu,  on  our  way  to  the  whaling  grounds 
of  the  north,  I  observed  that  young  William  Emerson,  who  accom- 
panied us  in  the  hopes  of  benefiting  his  health,  was  losing  strength. 

I  did  all  I  could  for  him,  even  to  giving  up  my  swinging  bed,  that 
he  might  rest  easy,  the  sea  being  rough.  The  last  time  he  went  on 
deck  was  during  a  snow  storm,  a  sight  he  had  never  seen.  He  seemed 
delighted  with  the  sight,  but  was  much  exhausted  when  returning  to 
the  cabin.  From  that  time  he  failed  fast,  and  in  a  few  days  it  be- 
came evident  that  his  life  was  fast  ebbing,  although  he  was  uncon- 
scious of  the  fact. 

Feeling  it  my  duty  to  inform  him  of  his  condition,  I  did  so  as 
quietly  a's  possible,  while  he  was  lying  in  the  swinging  bed.  He  seem- 
ed much  surprised,  and  said,  "Must  I  be  buried  in  the  ocean?"  I 
could  not  answer  his  question,  and  he  closed  his  eyes,  tears  cours- 
ing down  his  cheeks. 

For  some  fifteen  minutes  he  did  not  move  a  muscle,  then  opening 
his  eyes  and  looking  at  me  with  a  smile  I  shall  never  forget,  he  said, 
"I  am  going  to  see  Jesus,"  and  he  began  at  once  to  make  ready  as 
though  he  was  about  to  start  on  a  journey. 

He  requested  me  to  write  down  his  last  messages  to  his  parents, 
and  brothers,  and  sisters.  He  had  made  quite  a  collection  of  corals, 
shells  and  lava,  and  he  dictated  who  should  have  this,  that  and  the 
other,  with  a  clearness  that  was  surprising. 

Having  finished  his  last  will  and  testament,  it  being  near  evening,  he 
requested  to  see  the  officers  and  men.  I  told  him  to  compose  him- 
self and  rest  until  morning  before  seeing  the  men,  which  he  did.  I 
sat  by  him  until  twelve  o'clock  that  night,  when  a  Christian  young 
man  took  my  place,  with  orders  to  administer  stimulants  as  directed. 

At  six  0  'clock  in  the  morning  I  found  him  anxious  to  see  the  officers 
and  men.  After  breakfast  the  officers  came  to  his  bedside,  and  he 
took  each  one  by  the  hand,  telling  them  that  he  was  going  home  to 
see  Jesus,  and  giving  them  a  word  of  advice  and  a  good  bye,  like 
one  starting  on  a  journey.  So  in  the  course  of  the  forenoon  he  said 
goodbye  to  all  the  ship's  company  of  thirty-six  men.  That  night  at 
eleven  o'clock  he  breathed  his  last. 

A   BURIAL   AT    SEA. 

The  next  morning  a  shroud  was  made  and  the  body  prepared  for 
burial  by  being  sewed  up  in  a  heavy  canvas,  and  having  weights  at- 
tached to  the  feet  to  sink  the  body,  that  it  might  find  a  resting 
place  in  some  coral  bed  at  the  bottom  of  the  ocean.  I  have  often 
thought  how  dreadful  must  be  the   stillness  down  there. 

The  body  was  kept  on  the  quarter  deck  until  four  o'clock  in  the 


81 

afternoon,  when  all  hands  were  called  to  bury  the  dead.  The  ship 
was  luffed  to  the  wind  with  her  main  topsail  aback  to  stop  her  head- 
way. The  gangway  board  was  taken  out  and  the  body  laid  on  a 
plank.  I  then  read  the  Episcopal  burial  service  and  the  body  was 
launched   into   the   deep. 

After  laying  by  an  hour,  as  was  my  custom  after  burying  a  man 
at  sea,  the  ship  was  put  on  her  course.  Our  longitude  at  the  time 
of  the  burial  was  180°,  or  on  the  meridian,  where  the  day  begins;  and 
latitude  47°  31'  N. 

With  a  fair  wind  and  a  smooth  sea  we  made  all  speed  for  our 
destination. 

"MAN   OVERBOARD." 

Two  days  later  we  encountered  a  furious  gale  from  the  southeast. 
Being  anxious  to  gain  our  whaling  ground  I  did  not  lay  to,  but  skud 
under  storm  sails.  About  twelve  o'clock  that  night  a  wave  broke 
over  the  ship,  taking  away  one  of  our  boats,  and  the  cry  of  "Man 
overboard!"  was  heard.  I  was  on  the  hurricane  deck  at  the  time. 
Jumping  onto  the  main  deck  I  saw  that  one  man  was  gone  from  the 
wheel.  On  going  past  the  round  house  I  saw  the  man  hanging  to 
the  spanker  boom  guys.  With  my  help  he  was  soon  back  to  his  place 
at  the  wheel. 

Keeping  the  ship  away  two  points,  she  made  better  weather  of  it 
until  the  gale  abated. 

The  next  day  the  sun  shone,  and  we  ascertained  our  latitude  and 
longitude.  The  good  weather  was  of  short  duration,  as  the  follow- 
ing night  a  northeast  gale  came  on,  with  snow  and  sleet. 

Expecting  to  pass  through  Amphitrite  Straits  the  next  day,  I  kept 
a  sharp  reckoning  of  the  ship's  course  and  the  distance  run. 

INTO   THE   OKHOTSK   IN   A    SNOW   STORM. 

The  next  day  brought  a  heavy  gale  and  a  blinding  snow  storm.  I 
carried  a  heavy  press  of  sail,  and  determined  to  pass  through  the 
straits  before  night.  At  two  o'clock  p.  m.  I  had  all  hands  on  deck, 
with  men  stationed  on  the  foreyard  and  flying  jibboom.  The  color 
of  the  water  had  changed  from  blue  to  a  bright  green,  indicating 
near  approach  to  land.     Seals  were  seen  in  large  numbers. 

My  officers  showed  signs  of  fear,  and  I  must  say  it  was  a  somewhat 
exciting  time;  but  nevertheless  I  was  determined  to  sight  the  land. 

In  a  few  minutes  the  man  on  the  flying  jibboom  shouted:  "Break- 
ers ahead!"  The  helm  was  put  hard  starboard,  and  the  ship  came 
round,  head  off  shore,  but  so  near  the  rocks  that  a  stone  might  have 
been  thrown  on  shore.  We  soon  passed  through  the  straits  and  into 
the  Okhotsk  Sea. 

We  then  steered  to  the  northwest,  for  our  whaling  ground. 


82 
MEETING  THE  BARRIER  ICE. 

Two  days  later  we  came  to  the  ice,  which  seemed  to  stretch  all  the 
way  across  from  Cape  Elizabeth  to  the  shores  of  Kamchatka,  a  dis- 
tance of  four  hundred  miles. 

For  a  number  of  days  we  coasted  along  this  barrier  of  ice.  When 
within  about  fifty  miles  of  the  west  coast  of  Kamchatka  we  saw  an 
opening  which  extended  to  the  north  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach 
from  the  masthead.  Into  this  opening  I  determined  to  go,  and  take 
my  chances  of  getting  through  to  the  north  of  the  ice.  The  passage 
where  we  entered  was  about  one  mile  wide. 

With  a  fair  wind  from  the  south  the  Arctic  sped  on  her  way,  with 
an  ice  wall  on  either  side,  for  eight  hours,  making  a  distance  of 
sixty  miles  or  more.  Here  the  passage  closed  and  there  was  only 
one  thing  for  us  to  do,  which  was  to  take  in  all  sail  and  let  our  ship 
go  into  the  ice.  This  we  did  successfully  and  for  six  days  we  lay 
ice-bound,  but  working  our  way  to  the  north  with  all  sail  set,  press- 
ing through  the  field  ice  as  best  we  could. 

IN   A  FREEZING    GALE. 

On  the  sixth  day  clear  water  was  discerned  to  the  north  and  we 
hoped  soon  to  be  out  of  the  ice.  We  were  doomed  to  disappoint- 
ment, as  a  sharp  gale  came  down  upon  us  from  the  north,  with  intense 
cold — so  cold  that  the  men  were  driven  down  from  aloft  before  the 
sails  were  all  furled.  Some  of  the  men  had  frozen  fingers,  and  some 
frozen  ears.  Not  being  willing  to  see  the  sails  blown  away,  I  jumped 
into  the  rigging,  saying,  "Who  will  follow  me?"  Ten  men  came  to 
the  rescue,  and  we  secured  the  sails,  but  not  until  every  mother's 
son  of  us  was  more  or  less  frozen.  My  own  fingers  were  frozen  to 
the  second  joint.  I  took  the  frost  out  by  holding  my  hands  in  ice- 
cold  water.  This  was  a  painful  operation,  but  it  saved  my  fingers, 
as  it  did  those  of  the  other  men. 

BARRELS  OF  WATER  FROZEN  IN  THE  HOLD. 

The  gale  continued  its  fury  for  three  days;  and  it  was  all  we  could 
do  to  keep  from  freezing  in  our  cabin.  Ten-barrel  casks  of  water 
stored  in  the  ship's  hold  were  frozen  solid,  and  we  found  it  neces- 
sary to  hoist  them  on  deck  and  knock  the  heads  out  to  get  water 
to  drink,  and  for  culinary  purposes. 

When  the  gale  did  abate  the  ship  had  been  blown  back  many  miles 
into  the  ice,  and  was  frozen  in,  so  that  it  was  many  days  before  any 
move  could  be  made.  But  a  south  wind  came,  bringing  a  warm  wave 
which  soon  released  us,  and  in  a  few  days  we  reached  the  open  ocean 
to  the  north  of  the  ice. 


83 
WHALES   A-PLENTY. 

We  were  no  sooner  out  of  the  ice  than  we  saw  whales  in  large 
numbers.  I  sent  my  three  officers  in  pursuit  of  the  whales,  and  my 
mate  soon  harpooned  a  large  one. 

I  watched  the  maneuvering  of  the  officers  as  they  worked  unsuc- 
cessfully around  the  whale.  Becoming  impatient  at  the  fear  manifest- 
ed by  the  men,  I  lowered  a  boat  and  was  soon  alongside  and  had  the 
whale's  life-blood  flowing.  Without  saying  a  word  to  my  officers,  I 
returned  to  the  ship.  We  soon  had  a  whale  alongside.  More  whales 
were  in  sight,  and  my  mate  and  I  went  in  chase.  In  less  than  two 
hours  we  had  another  large  whale  alongside  of  the  ship,  and  secured 
the  bone  and  blubber,  or  fat. 

A  200  BARREL  WHALE. 

The  next  day,  there  being  whales  near  the  ship,  I  again  sent  my 
officers  in  chase,  but  not  until  I  had  given  them  a  "curtain  lecture." 
The  mate  soon  got  up  to  a  whale,  and  in  went  the  harpoon.  Down 
went  the  whale  taking  out  two  hundred  fathoms,  or  twelve  hundred 
feet,  of  line.  After  remaining  down  more  than  half  an  hour,  he  came 
to  the  surface,  and  was  dispatched.  He  was  a  monster,  yielding  over 
two  hundred  barrels  of  oil  and  two  thousand  pounds  of  bone. 

WHALES  AND  SNOW  STORMS. 

For  ten  days  the  weather  continued  fine,  in  which  time  we  took 
eight  hundred  barrels  of  oil  add  twelve  thousand  pounds  of  bone, 
worth,  at  that  time,  eighteen  thousand  dollars.  A  snow-storm  came 
on  and  continued  three  days,  but  the  wind  was  light  and  the  sea 
smooth,  so  we  managed  to  finish  up  our  work  and  be  ready  for  more 
whales  when  good  weather  came.  I  have  seen  many  snow  storms 
during  my  travels,  but  never  have  I  seen  snow  fall  so  fast  as  in 
this  storm.  Four  men  were  kept  shoveling  snow  off  the  deck  to  enable 
us  to  carry  on  our  work. 

On  the  10th  day  of  May  the  weather  cleared,  but  no  whales  were 
in  sight.  We  cruised  along  the  northern  edge  of  the  ice  until  the 
first  of  June,  when  we  sighted  the  coast  of  Kamchatka;  I  went  ashore. 

I  saw  no  signs  of  human  beings,  but  there  were  many  deer  and 
moose  near.  Their  tameness  reminded  me  of  the  poem  by  Cowper, 
"Verses  supposed  to  be  written  by  Alexander  Selkirk"  (whose  island 
experience  probably  furnished  DeFoe  with  material  for  his  celebrated 
book,  "Eobinson  Crusoe,"  which  appeared  in  1719.) 

"The  beasts  that  roam  over  the  plain, 
My  form  with  indifference  see: 
They  are  so  unacquainted  with  man. 
Their  tameness  is  shocking  to  me." 


84 
AN   1100  POUND   MOOSE. 

I  walked  up  within  twenty  yards  of  a  large  moose  and  shot  him 
through  the  heart.  The  others  with  him  ran  a  short  distance  and 
then  stopped  to  see  what  was  up.  "We  dressed  our  prize  on  the  spot, 
as  he  was  too  heavy  to  carry  in  bulk. 

When  dressed  the  moose  weighed  over  eleven  hundred  pounds.  I 
landed  at  the  same  place  two  weeks  later,  but  saw  neither  moose 
nor  deer;  instead,  mosquitoes  were  legion.  The  animals  had  evidently 
been  driven  from  their  feeding  ground  by  these  pests.  We  beat  a 
hasty  retreat,  but  were  followed  by  thousands  of  the  blood-thirsty 
wretches,  even  to  the  ship. 

This  coast  is  sloping  from  the  mountains,  and  has  a  rich  soil, 
vegetation   growing   very   rank. 

An  ambitious  settler  might  here  preempt  a  quarter  section,  with 
mosquitoes  thrown  in,  and  there  would  be  no  one  to  contest  his  claim. 

From  this  coast  we  steered  west  to  longitude  150  degrees  east,  where 
we  saw  several  ships,  much  field  ice,  and  many  whales,  but  the  latter 
had  been  so  "dogged"  by  the  boats  from  the  ships  that  they  seldom 
ventured  out  of  the  ice. 

WHALING   IN  THE   ICE. 

Conceiving  the  idea  that  they  might  be  attacked  in  the  ice,  I 
landed  on  the  ice  and  drew  my  boat  up.  A  short  distance  from 
where  I  landed  was  an  opening — a  large  "air-hole" — about  one  hun- 
dred feet  long  and  perhaps  thirty  feet  wide.  Before  leaving  the  ship 
I  had  noticed  whales  coming  up  to  this  opening. 

I  stationed  myself  near  the  edge,  with  lance  in  hand,  but  had  not 
waited  long  before  two  whales  came  up,  side  by  side,  one  of  them 
so  near  me  that  I  plunged  my  lance  into  his  lungs. 

The  commotion  made  by  the  monster  was  somewhat  startling.  He 
hit  the  cake  of  ice  I  was  standing  on  and  broke  it  in  two. 

I  was  thrown  into  the  water,  and  but  for  the  men  who  were  with 
me,  I  might  not  be  here  to  tell  the  tale.  It  was  decidedly  a  cold  bath, 
but  the  excitement  kept  me  warm. 

A   WHALE   IN  HIS  DEATH    STRUGGLE. 

The  whale  soon  came  up  in  an  opening  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
away,  and  threw  out  his  life-blood  in  large  quantities.  We  scrambled 
over  the  broken  ice  as  best  we  could,  and  came  up  to  the  whale  just 
as  he  commenced  his  death  struggles.  He  showed  his  immense  strength 
by  throwing  out  of  the  water  cakes  of  ice  that  weighed  tons.  His 
struggles  were  soon  ended,  and  he  came  up  fin  out. 

The  next  thing  of  importance  was  to  get  the  ship  to  the  whale,  as 
it  was  not  possible  to  get  the  whale  out  of  the  ice  to  the  ship.    Eun- 


85 

ning  the  ship  alongside  of  the  ice  threw  the  head  sails  aback,  stop- 
ping headway.  Then  shivering  the  after  sails  the  head  of  the  ship 
fell  off,  striking  the  ice  before  getting  much  headway.  I  then  press- 
ed on  all  sail,  forcing  the  ship  through  the  field-ice  to  the  loose  patches. 

In  less  than  an  hour  we  had  the  whale  fast  alongside  of  our  ship, 
and  before  night  we  had  his  blubber  and  bone  on  board. 

"While  we  were  working  with  the  whale  the  wind  had  changed  and 
the  ship  drifted  back  into  the  open  sea. 

While  looking  through  a  spy  glass  at  a  passing  ship,  I  discovered 
a  dead  whale  in  the  ice  only  a  short  distance  from  us.  We  soon  secur- 
ed the  prize  and  had  him  alongside  our  ship.  The  two  whales  made 
us  three  hundred  barrels  of  oil  and  three  thousand  pounds  of  bone. 

VISITED  BY  MULTITUDES  OF  BIRDS. 

The  ice  melted  rapidly,  anrl  in  a  few  days  there  was  neither  ice 
aor  whales  to  be  seen. 

In  latitude  50  degrees  N.  and  longitude  147  degrees  E.  the  weather 
assumed  a  very  peculiar  appearance.  There  was  a  bright  halo  around 
the  sun,  and  heavy  leaden  clouds  along  the  eastern  horizon. 

All  the  afternoon  land  birds  continued  to  come  on  board  our  ship. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  they  became  very  tame  and  sought  shelter 
under  the  boats,  flew  down  the  hatchways,  in  the  cabin,  and  wher- 
ever they  could  find  a  hiding  place.  I  had  a  large  after  cabin  which 
I  gave  up  to  the  little  visitors.  Among  them  were  blue-birds,  black- 
birds, bulfinches,  one  old  robin  red-breast  and  many  other  kinds  un- 
known to  me. 

Our  ship  was  made  ready  for  the  gale  that  I  knew  was  approach- 
ing, and  which  struck  the  ship  with  great  fury  about  ten  o'clock 
that   night. 

A  SEVEN-DAY  STORM. 

The  storm  came  from  the  northwest,  and  lasted  seven  days,  during 
which  time  we  saw  neither  sun,  moon  nor  stars.  For  two  days  the 
gale  continued  with  unabated  force,  with  a  sharp  sea  that  con- 
stantly broke  over  the  ship.  Having  secured  the  tiller  a  little  below- 
midships,  to  keep  the  ship's  head  up  to  the  wind,  I  sent  all  the  men 
below  excepting  one  officer. 

A   SHIP   ENCASED    IN   ICE. 

Nothing  could  be  done  with  the  ship  for  she  was  completely  cover- 
ed with  ice,  from  the  main  truck  to  the  water  line. 

The  rain  and  sleet  continued  for  six  days,  all  the  time  freezing  as 
fast  as  it  struck  the  ship. 

The  shrouds  were  covered  with  ice  to  the  size  of  a  nail  keg,  and  all 


86 

the  rigging  in  proportion,  so  that  the  ship  became  top-heavy  rolling 
her  planksheer  under  water. 

HEAD  FIRST  THROUGH  THE  SKYLIGHT. 

I  was  foolish  enough  to  climb  up  on  the  hurricane  house,  to  see  if 
any  thing  was  in  sight;  the  ship  gave  a  lurch,  sending  me  off  head 
foremost  onto  the  skylight  over  the  cabin. 

My  head  went  through  the  glass  and  my  shoulders  caught  on  the 
framework  protecting  the  glass.  In  this  case  the  glass  was  not 
protected,  but  went  jingling  onto  the  cabin  table.  The  officer  hav- 
ing charge  of  the  deck  was  below  lighting  his  pipe. 

Extricating  myself,  I  stepped  behind  the  round-house  as  he  came 
on  deck,  and  when  he  came  near  I  asked  him,  "What  made  all  that 
noise  in  the  cabin?"  He  answered,  "The  skylight  has  been  broken 
in."     I  asked  him  how  it  happened,  but  he  did  not  know. 

There  was  much  speculation  among  the  officers  as  to  how  it  could 
have  happened,  but  they  got  no  light  on  the  subject  from  me;  so  it 
remained  a  mystery  to  the  end  of  the  voyage. 

A   DAY  WITH  THE   BIRDS. 

I  spent  the  remainder  of  that  day  in  the  after-cabin  with  the  birds. 
They  had  become  very  tame,  so  much  so  that  they  would  light  on  my 
shoulders  and  arms,  and  allow  me  to  handle  them.  I  fed  them  on 
bread  crumbs,  corn  meal  and  canned  meat,  all  of  which  they  partook 
of  freely. 

They  were  very  friendly  to  each  other,  but  none  of  them  ventured 
a  song.    Like  the  Israelites,  their  harps  had  been  hung  on  the  willows. 

AN   "ICE   SHIP." 

On  the  seventh  day  in  the  afternoon  the  sun  broke  through  the 
clouds  and  shone  on  our  ship.  A  more  beautiful  sight  I  never  saw — 
an  ice  ship,  in  every  sense  of  the  word;  every  part  glistened  in  the 
sunshine. 

The  next  daj'  was  fine  and  the  morning  clear  and  crisp,  with  a  light 
breeze  from  the  south. 

At  eight  o'clock  I  opened  the  side-lights  to  the  cabin  and  let  the 
willing  captives  go  free.  In  a  short  time  they  were  all  on  the  wing, 
speeding  northward  to  the  Asiatic  coast. 

After  an  hour  the  old  robin  came  back  and  re-entered  the  cabin, 
but  she  soon  left  and  ^e  saw  her  no  more. 

I  missed  the  little  wanderers  more  than  I  can  tell — but  so  it  is  ever; 
our  pleasures  of  today  take  to  themselves  wings. 


87 


FREEING  THE  SHIP  FROM  ICE. 


The  south  wind  and  a  bright  sun  brought  warmth  and  cheer,  and 
we  began  the  task  of  freeing  our  ship  from  ice.  The  decks  were  easily 
cleared,  but  it  was  no  easy  task  to  clear  the  rigging.  As  the  ice 
thawed,  large  pieces  came  down  from  aloft  with  head-breaking  force. 
One  man  was  badly  cut  and  bruised  about  the  head  and  shoulders. 
We  had  to  work  cautiously,  and  were  two  days  in  freeing  the  ship 
so  we  could  go  on  our  way. 

It  is  difficult  for  those  who  have  not  experienced  such  a  storm  to 
fully  realize  the  gloom  that  settles  down  on  the  minds  of  those  who 
are  called  to  face  the  dangers  of  the  sea. 

To  me,  however,  the  grandeur  of  such  a  storm  as  I  have  faintly 
described,  drives  away  all  fear  and  fills  me  with  reverential  awe. 

Just  as  soon  as  we  had  freed  the  ship  from  the  ice,  we  steered  to  the 
southwest  and  soon  sighted  the  Asiatic  coast,  in  latitude  56  degrees 
20  minutes  north. 

There  we  saw  many  whales;  and  in  two  days  we  had  harpooned 
six  of  them  and  lost  two  hundred  fathoms  of  tow  line.  The  whales 
went  to  the  bottom  as  soon  as  harpooned,  entangling  the  line  round 
the  rocks,  breaking  it,  and  then  went  off  with  the  harpoons.  Leav- 
ing this  rocky  coast,  we  went  off  shore  and  succeeded  in  capturing 
a  number  of  whales. 

WHALING   OFF   THE    SHANTAR   ISLANDS. 

Late  in  July  I  fell  in  with  the  ship  Eobin  Hood,  of  Xew  London, 
Captain  McKinley.  The  captain  came  on  board  my  ship  and  we 
agreed  to  go  in  company  to  the  Shantar  Islands,  in  search  of  whales. 
These  islands  lay  off  the  Siberian  coast,  in  latitude  55  degrees  north 
and  longitude  137  degrees  30  minutes  east. 

Steering  to  the  southwest,  when  within  fifty  miles  of  the  islands  a 
thick  fog  came  down  on  us  and  continued  three  days.  The  wind  was 
light  and  the  sea  smooth. 

"YANKEE   DOODLE"   IN   THE   FOG. 

When  we  judged  ourselves  to  be  near  the  land,  we  sent  a  boat  ahead 
of  our  ships,  with  a  bugler  who  had  orders  to  play  "Yankee  Doodle" 
if  he  saw  land. 

It  was  not  long  before  the  notes  that  have  stirred  the  blood  of 
many  a  patriot  were  heard.  The  ship  was  luffed  by  the  wind,  head 
off  shore;  and  in  a  short  time  the  fog  lifted  and  I  found  we  were  in 
the  mouth  of  the  straits  leading  to  the  bays  and  harbors  inside  the 
islands. 

Passing  through  the  straits  we  found  r/raoli  floating  ice,  but  worRea 
our  way  in  until  we  struck  soundings  and  at  guntl^"'!  came  to  an- 
chor for  the  night. 


88 
EIGHTEEN   HOURS   AFTER   A   WHALE. 

At  dayligTit  whales  were  seen  near  the  ship,  and  we  gave  chase. 
Soon  I  came  alongside  of  a  large  fellow,  and  in  went  the  harpoons 
and  off  went  the  whale  for  the  ice  and  under  the  ice. 

I  attached  two  drags  to  the  line.  These  drags  are  eighteen  inches 
square,  made  of  plank,  and  offer  more  resistance  when  in  the  water 
than  a  boat  does. 

The  whale  soon  came  up  a  half  mile  in  the  ice;  we  scrambled  over 
and  through  the  ice,  getting  near  the  whale,  when  he  disappeared, 
but  soon  came  up  another  half  mile  away. 

For  six  hours  we  kept  up  the  chase,  until  I  got  near  enough  to  throw 
my  lance  into  his  lungs,  which  soon  brought  him  fin  out. 

It  was  ten  o'clock  that  night  before  the  ship  reached  the  whale, 
making  eighteen  hours  we  had  toiled  for  our  prize. 

The  following  day  was  foggy.  Whales  were  heard  off  in  the  float- 
ing ice.  Many  sea  lions  and  fur  seals  came  round  the  ship;  sea-fowl 
also  in  large  flocks  passed  by.  I  shot  quite  a  number,  and  we  had 
a  sea  pie  for  all  hands.  The  canvas-back  ducks  were  fat  and  delicious. 

Our  partner.  Captain  McKinley,  came  aboard,  his  ship  being  at  an- 
chor about  three  miles  away.    He  also  had  taken  a  large  whale. 

THE  MYSTERY  OF   SEA  ICE. 

At  sun-down  the  fog  lifted  and  many  whales  were  seen,  but  no 
ice  was  in  sight. 

There  is  something  mysterious  about  the  disappearance  of  ice  out 
of  the  ocean. 

I  was  once  cruising  along  a  field  of  ice  in  the  Okhotsk  Sea  which 
extended  fifty  miles  east  and  west,  and  as  many  miles  north  and 
south. 

A  thick  fog  came  up  and  lasted  twenty-four  hours;  when  the  fog 
lifted,  to  our  astonishment  no  ice  was  to  be  found,  but  the  whales  that 
had  been  sheltered  in  the  ice  were  ranging  around  as  though  they 
had  lost  their  hiding  place, — and  to  many  of  them  it  proved  that 
they  had. 

TOWED  TEN  MILES  BY  A  WHALE. 

On  the  following  day  I  harnessed  another  large  cow  whale  which 
proved  very  refractory  and  went  in  any  direction  she  pleased,  regard- 
less of  the  lines. 

I  was  towed  about  ten  miles  up  the  straits  toward  the  open  ocean, 
when  she  suddenly  turned  and  headed  for  the  land  a  mile  distant. 
When  near  the  shore  she  went  down  and  came  to  a  halt.  I  well  knew 
she  was  rolling  on  the  bottom,  and  soon  we  hauled  in  the  end  of 
our  line  which  had  been  entangled  round  the  rocks  and  broken. 


89 

The  old  whale  went  off  seaward,  taking  with  her  two  harpoons 
which  no  doubt  proved  to  be  "Thorns  in  her  side." 

Eeturning  to  the  ship,  and  more  whales  being  seen,  I  sent  my  offi- 
cers in  pusruit. 

My  mate  struck  a  small  whale  and  soon  brought  him  to  the  ship. 

Up  to  this  time  my  second  and  third  mates  had  not  been  near  a 
whale,  much  to  my  disgust. 

Next  day  a  small  whale  came  up  near  the  second  mate's  boat,  and 
the  boat  steerer  sent  in  the  harpoons.  The  whale  carted  him  around 
the  bay  for  hours,  when  at  length  I  managed  to  board  his  boat.  Or- 
dering the  men  to  haul  in  the  line,  we  were  soon  alongside  the  whale. 

MATE  WHO  DIDN'T   LIKE  HIS  JOB. 

I  told  my  second  mate  I  would  hold  the  boat  alongside  the  whale 
until  he  killed  him  or  until  the  whale  stove  the  boat  to  splinters. 

He  then  plunged  the  lance  into  the  whale's  lungs — and  with  a  bull 
frog's  leap  he  jumped  overboard  in  the  opposite  direction  from  the 
whale. 

As  he  could  swim,  and  another  boat  was  near,  I  did  not  stop  to 
pick  him  up.    We  soon  had  the  whale  alongside  the  ship. 

I  told  my  second  and  third  mates  to  lash  their  boats  on  the  cranes, 
as  they  were  no  help  in  catching  whales.  Soon  after  my  mate  was 
taken  sick  with  heart  trouble — (of  which  he  afterwards  died). 

I  now  had  the  field  of  battle  all  to  myself.  My  mate,  however,  soon 
rallied  and  was  able  to  accompany  me  as  a  helper  in  case  of  a  stoven 
boat. 

After  I  had  taken  a  number  of  whales  a  gale  came  on  and  blew  for 
forty-eight  hours. 

The  ship  dragged  her  anchors  until  she  was  within  a  short  distance 
of  the  rocks,  when,  fortunately  for  us,  the  gale  abated.  A  long  spell 
of  foggy  weather  followed. 

Black  and  cinnamon  bears  were  numerous  on  the  Shantar  Islands. 
They  could  be  seen  on  the  shores  at  all  times  of  day.  I  shot  a  num- 
ber and  we  had  all  the  bear  meat  we  wanted.  As  for  myself,  I  was 
like  the  man  who  could  eat  crow  but  didn't  hanker  for  it. 

EXPLORING   THE    LARGE   SHANTAR   ISLAND. 

The  second  day  after  the  gale  abated,  together  with  five  picked 
men,  I  went  on  shore  on  an  exploring  expedition.  We  had  two  shot- 
guns loaded  with  buck-shot,  two  men  had  boarding  knives  and  two 
had  sharp  hatchets.  We  landed  on  the  southwest  side  of  the  big 
Shantar  Island  and  proceeded  up  a  gentle  slope  towards  the  summit 
or  highest  part  of  the  island. 

Black  bears  were  numerous  and  very  tame;  we  passed  within  a  few 


90 

rods  of  many  of  them.  They  would  sit  up  on  their  haunches  and 
make  a  dismal  whining  noise,  but  they  showed  no  disposition  to 
attack  us. 

A  FIGHT  WITH  A  BEAR. 

One  large  cinnamon  bear  that  came  directly  in  our  path,  gave  us 
to  understand  that  he  did  not  turn  out  for  any  two-legged  animal. 
He  turned  first  one  side  to  us  and  then  the  other,  and  then  sat  on 
his  haunches,  all  the  time  keeping  up  a  noise  that  was  half  whine 
and  half  growl. 

When  we  were  within  a  few  feet  of  him  I  ordered  a  halt  and  drew 
my  forces  in  line  of  battle.  Myself  and  the  other  man  with  a  gun 
were  in  front,  next  stood  the  men  with  the  boarding  knives,  the  men 
with  the  hatchets  in  the  rear. 

Our  enemy  showed  plainly  that  he  meant  an  attack.  I  ordered  my 
man  with  the  gun  to  aim  at  his  heart  as  he  turned  his  side  to  us, 
while  I  took  deliberate  aim  at  the  side  of  his  head.  I  gave  the  order 
to  fire. 

To  my  astonishment  the  bear  rushed  at  us  with  terrible  fury,  but 
fell  dead  at  our  feet.  We  did  not  stop  to  take  his  skin,  as  it  was 
shedding  time  and  the  skin  of  no  value. 

A  GRAND  A^IEW. 

When  at  about  500  feet  elevation  we  got  above  the  fog,  and  a 
grander  sight  than  the  one  that  met  our  eyes  cannot  be  imagined. 
Spread  before  us  was  one  vast  sea  of  fog,  with  the  tops  of  the  isles 
peering  above;  and  the  bright  rays  of  the  sun  gave  a  rainbow  appear- 
ance to  all  around.  On  reaching  the  highest  peak  we  had  a  fine  view 
of  the  Siberian  coast.  The  fog  had  disappeared  under  the  rays  of  a 
noon-day  sun,  affording  a  view  grand  beyond  description. 

After  a  cold  lunch  we  began  the  descent,  diverging  somewhat 
from  our  ascent.  When  about  half  way  down  we  came  to  a  heavy 
wooded  ravine,  mostly  spruce  and  Norway  pine.  We  did  not  venture 
far  into  the  timber,  but  skirted  along  on  a  ridge  overlooking  the 
valley.  We  saw  many  red  and  gray  foxes.  I  shot  one,  but  found  the 
hair  falling  out  and  the  skin  worthless,  as  in  the  case  of  the  bear. 

A  SHE-BEAR  ROBBED  OF  HER  CUBS. 

Coming  to  an  opening  down  in  the  ravine  we  saw  two  young  bear 
cubs  playing  in  the  grass. 

I  knew  it  would  not  be  safe  to  molest  them,  but  my  men  plead  so 
hard  to  capture  them  that  I  consented.  They  soon  had  the  young 
varmints  in  their  arms.  One  of  them  made  a  pitiful  cry  when  caught; 
and  I  told  the  man  who  carried  the  other  gun  to  look  well  at  the  cap, 


91 

for  in  case  of  pursuit  by  the  mother  bear  we  could  not  afford  to  miss 
fire.  We  made  a  hurried  march  for  a  half  mile  or  more,  and  began 
to  breathe  with  a  little  more  ease,  when  one  of  the  men  cried  out, 

"SHE  IS  COMING  !" 

We  changed  our  walk  to  a  double-quick  march,  but  it  soon  became 
evident  that  our  legs  were  no  match  for  the  bear's.  The  bear  was 
within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  us,  rushing  on  in  maddened  fury.  Only 
those  who  have  been  chased  by  a  bear  robbed  of  her  whelps  can 
fully  realize  the  effect  it  has  on  one's  nerves. 

I  ordered  the  men  to  drop  one  of  the  cubs,  thinking  the  mother 
might  be  pacified  and  relinquish  her  pursuit.  But  not  so.  After  a 
stop  of  a  few  minutes,  giving  us  a  hundred  yards  start,  she  renewed 
the  chase. 

Being  tired  of  the  fun  (?)  and  somewhat  weary,  and  the  old  bear 
being  uncomfortably  near  us,  I  ordered  the  men  to  drop  the  other 
cub.  Coming  up  to  the  cub  the  mother  stopped;  we  also  stopped, 
determined  to  stand  our  ground  if  she  came  after  us  again.  The  old 
one  licked  and  caressed  the  cub,  looking  round  at  us  occasionally  and 
giving  a  growl  that  conveyed  the  idea  that  she  meant  business.  But 
she  evidently  had  no  more  use  for  us  and  we  resumed  our  march. 

WILD  CURRANTS. 

We  passed  some  beautiful  openings  among  the  spruce  and  fir  trees. 
In  one  place  we  came  upon  a  clump  of  red-currant  bushes,  loaded 
with  ripe  fruit.  The  sight  of  the  fruit  transported  me  instantly  to 
my  New  England  home  and  my  boyhood  days.  For  a  moment  the  old 
farmhouse  was  before  me,  with  all  its  surroundings — father,  mother, 
brothers  and  sisters  were  present  with  me,  and  I  was  a  boy  once 
more.  *  *  *  We  gathered  of  the  fruit  all  our  lunch  pails  and 
baskets  would  hold. 

A  FIGHT  WITH  THREE  BEARS. 

Arriving  at  the  place  where  our  boat  was,  we  found  three  black 
bears  standing  guard,  and  they  showed  no  disposition  to  retire.  We 
walked  up  to  within  a  hundred  feet  of  them,  came  to  a  halt  and  held 
a  council  of  war. 

Two  of  the  varmints  sat  upon  their  haunches,  facing  us,  and  show- 
ing their  teeth,  all  the  while  keeping  up  an  ugly  noise  that  was 
neither  growl  nor  whine.  It  did  not  take  us  long  to  determine  what 
we  would  do.  Like  General  Grant,  we  "proposed  to  move  imme- 
diately," and  taking  deliberate  aim  at  the  breasts  of  two  of  them 
we  fired  simultaneously. 

One  bear  fell  over  dead;  the  other  made  one  bound  towards  us  and 
also  fell  dead.    The  third  bear  seemed  astonished  at  such  unlooked-for 


92 

proceedings,  and  left  the  field  of  battle  on  a  double-quick.     It  was 
sundown  when  we  reached  the  ship  with  our  booty. 

On  the  following  morning  whales  were  in  sight,  near  the  ship,  and 
before  12  o'clock  I  had  two  alongside,  which  kept  us  busy  until  very 
late  that  night  getting  the  blubber  and  bone  on  board. 

NO  WHALING  ON   SUNDAY. 

The  next  day  many  whales  were  in  sight,  but  as  it  was  Sunday 
they  were  not  molested.  Since  my  first  voyage  as  master  of  a  ship 
I  have  not  allowed  whaling  on  the  Sabbath,  nor  profane  language 
to  be  used  on  my  ship;  and  religious  services  were  held  when  the 
weather  would  permit. 

On  Monday  morning  whales  were  numerous.  During  the  week  I 
captured  six,  but  had  the  misfortune  of  a  stove  boat  and  one  man 
badly  hurt,  not  escaping  some  cuts  and  bruises  and  a  cold  bath  myself. 
We  were  in  the  water  over  an  hour  before  being  rescued  by  my  mate. 

WRECKED  BY  A   COW  WHALE. 

One  of  the  captured  whales  was  a  large  cow.  When  harpooned  she 
went  to  the  bottom  and  ran  furiously  sea-ward  through  one  of  the 
channels.  It  was  more  than  an  hour  before  I  could  get  near  her 
and  then  only  near  enough  to  dart  a  spade  into  the  small  part  of  the 
body,  near  the  flukes — which  is  a  very  sensitive  part  of  the  whale. 
She  stopped  suddenly  and  commenced  lashing  the  ocean  furiously  with 
her  flukes.  At  length  she  became  quiet  and  I  gave  the  order  to  pull 
up  to  her,  broadside.  Placing  my  lance  into  her  lungs  I  churned  it 
up  and  down  a  number  of  times,  when  she  settled  under  the  water. 

HURLED  INTO  THE  AIR. 

The  next  moment  we  were  hurled  into  the  air,  together  with  oars 
and  the  broken  parts  of  the  boat.  The  injured  man  was  hauled  onto 
the  largest  piece  of  the  broken  boat,  and  held  there  by  two  good 
swimmers. 

I  dove  under  the  stern  part  of  the  boat, — what  was  left  of  it — 
and  got  the  flag  we  always  carried  to  signal  boats  when  we  were  in 
distress.  This  we  managed  to  raise  four  or  five  feet  above  our 
heads,  which  was  soon  seen  by  my  mate,  who  was  following  us  as 
best  he  could. 

We  were  rescued  from  our  predicament,  and  the  old  whale  that  had 
raised  such  vigorous  objections  to  being  killed  was  towed  to  the 
ship  and   soon  found  her  way  into  the  oil  barrels. 

It  was  now  the  first  of  September  and  the  season  was  drawing  to  a 
close.  For  a  number  of  days  we  had  a  dense  fog  and  calm  weather. 
Our  neighbor  was  anchored  about  five  miles  from  us. 


93 

CONVERSATION  AT  A  DISTANCE  OF  FIVE  MILES. 

One  of  these  foggy  mornings  I  heard  a  man  on  board  the  Bobbin 
Hood  say,  "Did  you  hear  that  whale  blow?"  A  man  answered, 
"Yes."  Then  I  heard  the  order  given  to  call  all  hands  and  man  the 
boats.  The  orders  given  were  as  plainly  heard  as  though  the  ship  had 
been  within  a  hundred  feet  of  us.  The  whale  was  harpooned,  killed 
and  taken  to  the  ship;  and  we  knew  all  the  particulars  in  regard  to 
the  transaction  as  well  as  those  engaged  in  it.  Still  we  were  five 
miles  away. 

The  peculiar  state  of  the  atmosphere  at  the  time  of  course  accounted 
for  the  sounds  coming  so  distinctly  to  us.  More  than  one  instance 
of  the  kind  came  to  my  notice. 

CAPTURING  WILD  SVf^ANS. 

On  the  following  morning  I  heard  the  honk  of  swan  in  the  direction 
of  a  point  of  land  making  out  into  the  bay.  Hoping  to  get  a  shot 
at  them  I  rowed  to  the  point;  arriving  there  the  cries  were  heard 
still  farther  away.  I  knew  then  that  they  must  be  at  a  small  island 
five  miles  distant,  which  had  a  fine  bay  and  harbor. 

I  continued  my  journey,  and  when  within  a  mile  of  the  island  the 
fog  lifted,  and — there  was  our  game.  Getting  within  thirty  yards,  I 
selected  a  large,  fine-looking  bird  and  was  about  to  fire  when  they 
dove.  As  I  had  never  been  able  to  approach  so  near  them  before,  I  con- 
cluded that  it  must  be  their  molting  time.  They  soon  came  up  and 
as  we  approached  they  again  dove. 

When  they  reappeared  we  gave  chase  and  in  a  short  time  tired 
them  out  and  captured  six.  One  was  a  very  large  male  bird; — and 
he  fought  like  a  tiger,  tearing  off  the  sleeve  of  a  man's  shirt  and 
badly  lacerating  the  arm.  The  birds  were  taken  to  the  ship  and  put 
in  a  snug:  corner  back  of  the  hurricane  house. 


^o 


FIGHT  WITH  A  BULL  WHALE. 

A  little  before  sunset  a  whale  came  up  near  the  ship.  I  went  in 
chase  and  soon  harpooned  it;  it  proved  to  be  a  young  bull. 

He  ran  and  fought  furiously;  cutting  right  and  left  with  his 
flukes,  he  broke  two  oars  and  disabled  one  man.  Being  crippled 
with  the  loss  of  two  oars  and  one  man,  and  being  five  miles  from 
the  ship  and  three  miles  from  my  mate 's  boat,  and  the  sun  having  set, 
we  had  to  work  cautiously.  Eealizing,  however,  that  a  desperate 
chance  must  be  taken  and  the  whale  killed,  or  the  line  cut  and  whale 
let  go,  I  decided  on  the  former  course,  and  throwing  the  line  out  of 
the  chocks  of  the  boat  and  bringing  it  to  the  bow-cleat,  I  ordered 
the  men  to  haul  line. 

When   within  ten  to   fifteen  feet   of   the   whale's  life,   I  plunged 


94 

two  lances,  one  after  the  other,  into  his  lungs,  and  gave  the  order 
to  slack  line.     I  expected  a  demonstration— and  we  had  it. 

WHALE   SMASHES  THE   BOAT. 

The  whale  struck  the  bow  of  the  boat,  cutting  off  the  upper  part 
and  starting  off  the  plank  from  the  stem,  which  caused  the  water 
to  rush  in,  threatening  to  swamp  us.  By  sending  the  men  into  the 
stern  I  managed  to  keep  the  boat  afloat  until  the  mate  came  up  and 
took  us  off.    In  the  meantime  the  whale  had  turned  fin  out,  dead. 

It  was  midnight  when  we  got  the  whale  and  the  disabled  boat  to 
the  ship.    The  injured  man  was  much  bruised  but  soon  recovered. 

A  BELLIGERANT  SWAN. 

The  next  morning  after  breakfast  I  went  to  have  a  look  at  my 
birds.  As  I  stepped  into  the  narrow  passage  where  they  were  domi- 
ciled, the  female  birds  were  huddled  together,  but  the  male  bird 
stood  boldly  out  in  front  and  faced  me  as  I  approached. 

When  I  was  nearly  within  arm's  length  of  him,  he  sprang  upon  me, 
seizing  my  shirt  collar,  (a  wool  shirt),  tearing  away  part  of  the  shirt, 
and  at  the  same  time  striking  me  on  my  ribs  with  his  wings.  I  beat 
a  hasty  retreat.  The  next  time  I  viewed  my  birds  it  was  at  long  range. 

Before  noon  whales  came  up  near  the  ship,  and  by  night  we  had 
two  more  alongside.  The  following  day  we  took  another.  This  gave 
us  so  much  to  do  there  was  no  time  to  bother  with  birds,  so  I  ordered 
them  thrown  overboard;  they  went  off  towards  the  land  honking,  and 
I  presume  rejoicing  in  their  freedom  from  bondage. 

No  more  whales  were  seen  until  September  15th.  In  the  mean- 
time our  neighbor,  the  Eobin  Hood,  had  anchored  near  us,  and, 
whales  being  in  sight,  boats  from  both  ships  went  in  chase,  they 
having  four  boats  against  my  one.  The  mate  of  the  Eobin  Hood 
succeeded  in  capturing  a  whale.  I  returned  to  my  ship,  but  I  must 
say,  not  in  a  very  pleasant  mood. 

Next  morning  at  dawn  of  day  the  officer  having  charge  of  the  deck 
came  and  woke  me  up,  saying  whales  were  near  the  ship.  It  was  not 
many  minutes  before  my  boat  was  in  the  water,  and  before  sunrise 
I  had  a  large  whale  fin  out,  and  we  soon  had  him  alongside  our  ship. 

A  SCHOOL  OF  100  WHALES. 

After  breakfast  more  whales  were  sighted,  and  I,  with  my  mate, 
gave  chase,  but  it  was  hours  before  we  came  up  with  them,  as  they 
were  moving  in  a  body  up  the  bay. 

There  must  have  been  a  hundred  whales,  large  and  small,  in  the 
school.     Our  neighbor's  boats  were  also  in  chase. 

When  about  four  miles  from  our  ship,  and  near  the  head  of  the 


95 

bay,  I  came  up  with,  and  harpooned,  a  whale  beautifully  marked 
with  white  spots,  a  real  calico  whale,  and  a  real  race  horse.  She 
carted  us  about  the  bay  until  I  despaired  of  securing  our  prize;  it 
was  after  sunset  before  I  got  near  enough  to  plunge  a  lance  into 
her  lungs.  She  stopped  as  soon  as  her  life  blood  began  to  flow,  but 
it  was  dark  before  she  turned  fin  out.  We  were  now  five  miles  from 
ship  and  the  tide  was  setting  us  still  further  away. 

ANCHORED  ALL  NIGHT  WITH  A  WHALE. 

I  anchored  my  boat,  and  so  held  the  whale  from  being  taken  farther 
away  from  the  ship.  Soon  after  dark  a  dense  fog  shut  down  on  us. 
We  then  got  supper,  which  consisted  of  sea  biscuits  and  cold  water.  At 
twelve  o'clock  that  night  the  tide  turned,  setting  in  the  direction 
of  our  ship;  we  took  up  our  anchor  and  were  taken  along  at  the  rate 
of  a  mile  an  hour.  At  five  o'clock  in  the  morning  the  fog  lifted  and 
we  found  ourselves  within  a  mile  of  our  ship.  We  were  soon  along- 
side the  ship  with  the  whale. 

GIVEN  UP  FOR  LOST. 

We  had  been  given  up  for  lost,  our  comrades  supposing  that  we 
had  all  gone  to  sleep  in  the  bottom  of  the  quiet  bay.  But  there  had 
not  been  much  sleep  for  us,  with  the  mercury  down  to  the  freezing 
point.  We  had  kept  from  being  frozen  by  exercise,  such  as  thrash- 
ing our  hands  and  pulling  our  ears. 

I  hardly  need  to  say  that  we  were  tired  and  sleepy  when  we  reached 
the  ship.  I  felt  well  satisfied,  however,  when  I  saw  our  prize  along- 
side the  ship.  Fog  settled  down  upon  us  again  and  no  more  whales 
were  seen  for  some  days. 

About  this  time  two  more  ships  came  into  the  bay  and  anchored 
near  us.  One  was  a  German  whaler  and  the  other  an  American 
whaler. 

RIDING  OUT  A  GALE. 

About  the  20th  of  September  the  weather  became  threatening  and 
I  got  my  ship  under  way,  and  made  a  harbor  in  a  bay  on  the  south 
side  of  Fiklishoff  Island,  where  I  had  captured  the  swan  previously 
mentioned.  The  other  three  ships  made  a  harbor  under  the  lee  of 
the  great  Shanter  Island,  and  we  all  rode  out  the  gale  in  safety, 
though  it  blew  "great  guns." 

On  the  25th  of  September  whales  came  in  sight,  and  boats  from  all 
four  ships  went  in  chase.  We  lowered  our  two  boats  and  joined 
the  others,  but  the  whales  were  so  thoroughly  awake  to  their  danger 
that  they  put  seaward  out  through  one  of  the  channels,  on  a  double 
quick. 


96 
FORCING   A   FIGHT   WITH   BEARS. 

When  returning  to  our  ship  we  passed  a  high  bluff,  with  a  rocky- 
point  making  out  into  the  bay.  As  we  rounded  the  point  three  bears 
were  seen  eating  the  carcass  of  a  whale  that  had  drifted  on  shore. 
The  mate  of  the  Eobin  Hood  was  half  a  mile  in  advance  of  my  boat. 
Having  passed  the  bears,  he  pulled  in  shore  to  cut  off  their  retreat, 
as  they  could  not  pass  the  rocky  point  mentioned,  and  the  bluff  back 
of  the  beach  was  some  twenty  feet  high. 

There  was  a  cut  a  quarter  of  a  mile  up  the  bay,  where  the  bears 
could  pass  up  onto  the  table  land.  The  bears  started  for  this  cut, 
and  seeing  their  enemies  landing,  they  started  on  a  double  quick 
and  passed  the  boat  before  the  men  could  climb  up  the  rocky  shore 
to  cut  off  their  retreat.  The  third  bear,  however,  like  Gallio,  "cared 
for  none  of  these  things,"  but  walked  leisurely  along,  attending 
strictly  to  his  own  business. 

ATTACKING  A  BEAR  WITH  A  SPADE  AND  A  ROCK. 

Two  men  had  climbed  to  the  beach;  one  a  boat  steerer  and  the  other 
the  bow  oarsman. 

The  boat-steerer  took  his  position  on  shore  near  the  high  bank, 
with  a  boat  spade,  a  formidable  weapon  when  skilfully  used.  Ben 
took  a  position  on  a  rocky  bank  near  the  water,  armed  with  David's 
weapon — only  he  had  no  sling. 

Knowing  the  disposition  of  the  cinnamon  bear  I  took  in  the  situa- 
tion at  once  and  made  all  possible  speed  for  the  field  of  battle,  and 
arrived  just  in  time  to  save  Ben's  life. 

As  the  bear  passed  between  the  two  men  the  boat-steerer  threw  the 
spade,  cutting  a  slight  gash  in  the  bear 's  hindquarter  and  at  the  same 
time  Ben  let  drive  his  rock,  hitting  the  bear  on  the  side  of  the  head. 
These  acts  thoroughly  aroused  bruin,  and  I  think  that  if  there  had 
been  any  hair  on  the  top  of  my  head,  it  would  have  stood  on  end. 

FIGHTING  A  BEAR  IN  THE  WATER. 

The  bear  went  for  Ben  with  a  roar  that  meant  business,  and  the  ter- 
rified boy  leaped  from  the  rocky  bank  down  some  fifteen  feet  into 
the  water,  and  the  bear  after  him.  The  bear  lit  on  Ben's  back, 
fearfully  lacerating  it  and  sending  him  under  water. 

It  was  some  little  time  before  the  poor  fellow  again  came  to  the 
surface,  and  when  he  did  old  bruin  was  on  hand  to  finish  his  bloody 
work,  and  with  one  savage  blow  of  his  paw  he  stripped  the  flesh  from 
the  side  of  the  poor  fellow's  head  and  face,  nearly  severing  the  ear, 
and  sending  him  again  to  the  bottom. 


97 
HARPOONING  A  BEAR. 

At  this  moment,  I  arrived  at  the  bloody  scene  and  plunged  a  har- 
poon through  the  vitals  of  the  bear,  killing  him  at  once.  Two  good 
swimmers  at  once  dove  down  in  fifteen  feet  of  water  and  brought 
Ben  to  the  surface,  and  we  took  him  in  our  boat.  He  was  apparently 
dead,  but  before  reaching  his  ship,  the  Kobin  Hood,  he  showed  signs 
of  life.  When  Captain  McKinley  learned  of  what  had  happened  he 
was  much  exercised,  and  his  language  to  his  mate  was  more  forcible 
than  complimentary. 

One  of  the  ships  that  had  recently  arrived  had  a  surgeon  aboard. 
He  was  sent  for,  and  soon  arrived  with  his  bandages  and  surgical 
instruments,  and  the  work  began.  The  ear  was  sewed  on,  the  scalp 
put  in  place,  the  cheek  stitched  and  the  back  dressed,  and  Ben  was 
put  to  bed,  a  wiser  man.  Captain  McKinley  asked  him  if  he  ever 
would  trouble  another  bear.  Ben  whined,  "Not  if  I  know  who  I  am." 
He  recovered  but  was  somewhat  disfigured. 

Soon  after  sailor  Ben's  rough  experience  with  the  angry  bear,  the 
weather  became  stormy  and  cold.  Small  whales  came  into  the  bay, 
but  they  were  very  shy  and  would  not  allow  the  boats  to  come  near 
them. 

GALES  AND  SNOW  STORMS. 

On  the  first  day  of  October,  1852,  we  left  the  Shantar  Islands  with 
a  fresh  northwest  gale. 

The  following  night  the  wind  came  from  the  northeast,  with  a 
blinding  snow  storm.  We  carried  a  heavy  press  of  sail,  hoping  to 
weather  Cape  Elizabeth,  which  is  from  one  to  two  hundred  miles 
northeast  from  the  mouth  of  the  Armoor  river,  on  the  Siberian  coast. 

All  the  next  day  the  storm  continued  unrelentingly,  and  before 
dark  I  gave  orders  to  put  the  ship  about,  as  it  was  doubtful  if  we 
could  weather  the  Cape. 

At  midnight  the  wind  was  blowing  heavily  and  the  ship  was  put 
under  storm  sails.  I  knew  we  must  be  near  the  Cape — but  all  we 
could  do  was  to  wait  for  daylight. 

ON  A  LEE  SHORE  IN  A  GALE. 

At  daylight  I  found  the  ship  had  drifted  into  a  large  bay,  and 
there  we  were  on  a  lee  shore  with  no  hope  of  escaping  shipwreck 
unless  a  harbor  could  be  found.  Eunning  along  the  shore,  I  soon  saw 
a  rocky  point  making  out  into  the  bay,  and  rounding  the  point  I 
brought  the  ship  into  a  small  bay,  and  anchored  in  seven  fathoms  of 
water. 


98 
A  BRIEF  RESPITE. 

Ouly  those  who  have  experienced  a  gale  in  a  blinding  snow  storm 
on  a  lee  shore,  can  imagine  the  relief  there  is  in  gaining  a  harbor. 
Our  harbor,  however,  was  only  safe  for  an  easterly  gale. 

The  ship  lay  quietly  at  anchor  through  the  night,  during  which 
time  the  gale  abated. 

At  daybreak  a  bright  streak  of  clear  sky  in  the  northwest  indicat- 
ed a  gale  from  that  quarter. 

I  immediately  called  all  hands  and  ran  out  six  hundred  fathoms 
of  tow-line  off  shore,  and  heaving  up  the  anchor  we  soon  warped  the 
ship  far  enough  off  to  get  under  way; — and  we  were  none  too  soon, 
for  the  gale  came  down  on  us,  blowing  directly  on  shore. 

I  carried  a  heavy  press  of  sail  and  was  able  to  make  a  'longshore 
course,  though  at  times  skimming  along  past  the  rocky  points,  so  close 
that  a  stone  might  have  been  thrown  into  the  breakers  from  the 
ship's  deck. 

A  DESPERATE  RACE  WITH  FATE. 

For  four  hours  this  exciting  struggle  continued,  the  ship  plunging 
bowsprit  under,  and  the  waves  making  a  clean  break  over  our  deck, 
washing  overboard  everything  that  was  not  firmly  lashed. 

The  last  rocky  point  that  we  had  to  pass  was  now  in  sight,  two 
points  off  our  lee  bow. 

The  question  was:  "Can  we  weather  the  point  in  such  an  ugly 
sea?" 

At  the  risk  of  being  washed  overboard  we  trimmed  the  sails,  and 
taking  the  helm  myself  with  another  man  I  exerted  all  my  skill  in 
easing  the  ship  as  she  plunged  into  the  waves. 

For  two  long,  anxious  hours  we  watched  every  flaw  of  wind.  Some- 
times a  favorable  flaw  in  the  gale  give  us  fresh  hope,  and  then  a  flaw 
heading  us  off  towards  the  rocky  point  would  again  darken  our  hopes. 

To  tack  ship  was  impossible  in  such  a  sea,  and  there  was  not  room 
to  wear  round,  so  we  must  weather  the  point  or  be  dashed  on  the  rocks. 

A  CRUCIAL  MOMENT. 

It  was  a  crucial  time  for  men's  courage. 

As  we  neared  the  point  ashy-pale  faces  were  to  be  seen. 

When  within  one-eighth  of  a  mile  from  the  point  I  had  no  hope — 
but  another  flaw  in  our  favor  gave  us  another  chance  of  again  seeing 
home  and  friends. 

Our  noble  ship  seemed  aware  of  danger,  and  reared  and  plunged 
like  a  frightened  deer. 

When  directly  off  the  point  a  huge  roller  lifted  the  ship  high  in  air, 
throwing  her  on  her  beam  ends.  When  she  righted  and  came  down 
in  the  trough  of  the  sea  she  touched  the  bottom,  but  not  heavily. 


99 

The  next  wave  took  us  past  the  point,  and  we  felt  as  though  we 
had  been  snatched  from  the  jaws  of  death. 

When  our  ship  touched  bottom  huge  rocks  showed  their  heads  above 
water  within  twenty  feet  of  us. 

ESCAPING  SHIPWRECK  BY  TEN  FEET. 

I  calculated  that  we  escaped  shipwreck  and  the  loss  of  our  lives 
by  not  more  than  ten  feet.  Had  I  not  taken  the  wheel,  or  helm,  myself, 
I  would  not  be  here  to  tell  the  story  of  our  escape,  so  I  think. 

In  these  extreme  cases  of  danger  the  coolness  and  courage  of  men 
are  brought  to  the  point.  My  mate  stood  by  cool  and  collected,  while 
my  second  and  third  officers  were  as  limber  as  a  wet  rag. 

Some  of  my  crew  showed  qualities  of  courage  worthy  of  noble  men, 
while  others  were  utterly  useless. 

I  will  mention  one  man  who  had  boasted  of  his  bravery,  pretending 
that  he  feared  neither  God  nor  man,  and  who  jeered  at  the  men  who 
attended  religious  services  in  the  cabin.  During  our  dangerous 
passage  of  the  rocky  point  he  was  the  first  to  cry  out  and  call  on  God 
to  save  him. 

OFF  FOR  HAWAII  ONCE  MORE. 

Before  dark  we  passed  Cape  Elizabeth,  and  with  a  fair  wind  steer- 
ed for  Boussole  Channel,  leading  out  into  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Thence 
our  course  was  to  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  where  we  arrived  on  the  first 
of  November,  1852. 

I  shipped  our  season's  catch  to  New  Bedford,  and  fitted  the  ship  for 
another  season. 

Shipping  new  officers  I  again  sailed  for  another  season  to  the 
northern  seas,  by  way  of  Hongkong.  As  I  was  to  pass  near  the 
Micronesian  Islands,  I  consented  to  take  the  mail  to  the  missionaries 
who  had  located  there  the  previous  year. 

MEETING  THE   MISSIONARIES   IN   MICRONESIA. 

The  mail  I  took  to  the  missionaries  on  the  Micronesian  Islands  was 
the  first  they  had  received  since  leaving  their  homes  and  friends  more 
than  a  year  before.  I  found  Eev.  B.  G.  Snow  and  wife  on  Strong's 
Island  in  good  health,  and  doing  a  good  work  among  the  natives. 

After  staying  on  shore  a  few  hours  I  returned  to  my  ship  and  two 
days  later  touched  at  Ponape,  or,  as  it  is  better  known  on  charts.  As- 
cension Island,  where  Eev.  A.  A.  Sturges  and  L.  H.  Gulick,  with  their 
wives,  were  located. 

TREACHEROUS  NATIVES  AND  VILE  FOREIGNERS. 

These  missionaries  were  having  a  hard  time,  the  natives  being 
treacherous.     They  also  had  to  encounter  a  horde  of  vile  foreigners, 


100 

"enemies  of  all  righteousness,"  who  use  all  their  influence  with  the 
natives  to  hinder  any  and  all  progress  towards  reform  and  Christian- 
ity. 

After  remaining  at  this  island  but  a  few  hours,  delivering  their 
mail,  I  went  on  my  course  for  Hongkong. 

We  passed  near  Guam,  one  of  the  Ladrone  Islands,  and  entered  the 
China  Sea  through  Basi  Channel,  sighting  the  south  point  of  Formosa 
Island. 

THROUGH  THE   CHINA  SEA. 

In  passing  through  the  China  Sea,  we  saw  numerous  Chinese  junks, 
or  fishing  boats.  We  counted  one  hundred  in  sight  at  one  time,  and 
we  came  near  running  some  of  them  down  in  the  night. 

When  about  ten  miles  from  the  entrance  to  Hongkong  harbor  I 
took  a  Chinese  pilot;  he  was  a  stupid  looking  fellow  and  I  did  not  like 
to  give  up  the  ship  to  him,  but  with  his  help  the  harbor  was  gained 
and  the  ship  safely  anchored. 

A   SAMPAN   CREW. 

A  sampan  was  engaged  to  wait  on  my  ship.  The  crew  of  the  boat 
consisted  of  the  father,  mother  and  four  children.  Josh  bringing  up 
the  rear,  A  little  place  was  fitted  up  in  the  stern  of  the  boat,  and 
there,  in  a  little  nook,  was  a  small  wooden  image  with  a  plate  of 
fruit  and  a  taper,  which  was  constantly  kept  burning,  before  it. 

"Do  you  ever  see  Josh  eat?"  I  asked. 

The  man  replied:    'Me  no  see,  but  he  eat  plenty." 

The  wife  was  skillful  with  the  scull,  and  could  manage  the  boat 
as  well  as  the  man  could. 

I  was  told  that  she  was  born  on  a  boat  and  had  never  slept  a  night 
on  the  shore,  though  she  must  have  been  forty  years  old. 

A  GOLD  EAGLE  THAT  WAS  PAINTED  BLACK. 

I  obtained  a  good  supply  of  vegetables  for  my  northern  cruise, 
painted  my  ship  outside  and  had  a  large  eagle,  that  was  carried  on 
the  ship's  stern,  gilded. 

The  Chinaman  who  did  the  gilding  could  not  be  prevailed  upon  to 
do  the  work  until  the  day  before  I  left  the  port,  but  before  we  were 
ready  to  leave  port  the  job  was  completed. 

When  only  a  few  days  out,  I  looked  over  the  ship's  stern  to  see  our 
beautiful  eagle.  What  was  my  surprise  to  discover  he  had  become  as 
black  as  the  ace  of  spades. 

"For  ways  that  are  dark, 
And  tricks  that  are  vain,"  etc. 

I  had  a  desire  to  have  that  Chinaman  on  board  the  ship  for  a  short 
space  of  time,  but  he  was  at  Hongkong  and  I  on  the  rolling  deep;  but 
the  eagle  remained  black  to  the  end  of  the  voyage. 


101 

When  leaving  Hongkong  our  pilot  took  us  round  the  west  and  south 
side,  so  we  circumnavigated  the  island.  We  had  a  rough  time  get- 
ting out  of  the  China  Sea,  against  the  northeast  monsoons;  but  a 
favorable  current  helped  us  out. 

In  latitude  21  degrees  north  and  longitude  121  degrees  30  minutes 
east  the  wind  left  us,  and  it  continued  calm  for  many  days. 

DRIFTING  AMONG  ROCKS. 

In  the  meantime,  the  current  took  us  along  some  two  miles  an  hour 
in  the  direction  of  the  Bashi  rocks,  an  ugly  reef. 

At  twelve  o'clock  one  dark  night,  the  fifteenth  day  out  of  Hong- 
kong, the  rocks  were  discovered  only  a  short  distance  from  us. 

In  a  short  time  breakers  were  heard,  and  soon  we  were  in  the  midst 
of  breakers.  On  the  port  side,  breakers,  and  on  the  starboard  side 
rocks  were  seen  standing  out  in  the  darkness,  like  grim  ghosts. 

On  the  current  took  us,  through  narrow  passes. 

After  an  hour  of  intense  excitement  and  anxiety,  we  passed  out 
between  two  rocks,  which  stood  like  sentinels  keeping  guard  for  old 
Neptune. 

The  next  day  we  had  a  breeze  from  the  southeast.  Steering  to  the 
northeast,  in  a  few  days  we  sighted  the  Lew  Chew  Islands,  and 
passed  into  the  Tong  Hai,  or  Eastern  Sea.  Steering  to  the  north,  in 
search  of  whales,  we  entered  the  Yellow  Sea,  but  saw  no  game  worth 
mentioning,  although  we  remained  there  some  ten  days. 

WHALING  IN  THE  COREAN  STRAITS. 

We  then  steered  to  the  east,  and  when  off  Quelpart  Island,  near  the 
mouth  of  Corean  Straits,  the  sound  of  "there  she  blows!  "  was  heard. 

Soon  three  boats  were  sent  in  chase.  From  the  masthead  I  watched 
the  maneuvering  of  the  new  officers. 

The  second  mate  soon  got  up  to  a  whale  and  in  went  the  "gigs." 
The  whale  cut  right  and  left,  but  the  boat  escaped  without  damage. 
Now  came  the  tug-of-war. 

The  whale  showed  all  the  opportunity  for  being  killed  that  a  whale 
could  show — but  no  life-blood  flowed. 

SHOWING   THE   OFFICERS   "HOW  TO   DO   IT." 

After  a  half -hour's  waiting  I  ordered  my  boat  lowered,  and  with 
disappointment  and  disgust  I  started  for  the  field  of  battle. 

Pulling  up  to  the  whale  I  sent  my  lance  into  his  lungs  and  churned 
it  up  and  down  a  few  times,  and  then  went  back  to  the  ship  without 
saying  a  word  to  any  one;  but  I  have  no  doubt  I  looked  daggers  at 
them.     I  did  not  speak  to  one  of  my  officers  for  many  days,  unless  it 


102 

was  in  regard  to  ship's  duty.     My  disgust  was  best  manifested  by 
silence. 

NEW  OFFICERS  WORSE  THAN  OLD. 

I  found  my  officers  quite  ignorant  in  regard  to  taking  the  oil  and 
bone  from  the  whale  after  he  was  brought  to  the  ship.  This  made  my 
position  a  very  trying  one.  I  almost  wished  my  former  officers  back. 
It  reminded  me  of  a  song  I  heard  when  a  boy: 

"I  married  a  wife.     O  then,  O  then — 

I  married  a  wife,     O  then — 
I  married  a  wife — the  plague  of  my  life. 

And  the  world  it  went  ill  with  me  then! 

My  wife  she  died,    O  then,    O  then — 

My  wife  she  died,  O  then — 
My  wife  she  died — I'll  be  hanged  if  I  cried, 

For  the  world  it  went  well  with  me  then. 

I  married  another,   O  then,   O  then — 

I  married  another,   O  then — 
I  married  another — far  worse  than  the  other, 

And  the  world  it  went  ill  with  me  then." 


COASTING  ALONG  JAPAN. 

After  looking  about  a  few  days  where  we  had  taken  our  whale,  we 
steered  to  the  north  and  passed  through  Corea  Straits  into  the  Japan 
Sea.  In  passing  the  straits  we  had  a  fine  view  of  Tsu  Island,  near 
the  middle  of  the  straits.  We  coasted  along  the  west  side  of  the 
island  so  near  that  we  could  see  the  people  on  shore. 

There  were  many  beautiful  harbors,  with  ships  passing  in  and  out. 
The  land,  so  far  back  as  the  eye  could  reach,  appeared  to  be  under 
high  cultivation,  with  grain  fields,  orchards  and  ornamental  trees. 

A  land  beautiful  to  look  upon,  with  hills  and  dales,  cities,  and  ap- 
parently beautiful  country  residences.  I  longed  to  go  on  shore,  but  I 
knew  I  should  not  be  a  welcome  visitor,  as  the  country  was  not  open 
to  foreigners  at  that  time. 

ROUGH  WEATHER  AND  RACE  HORSE  WHALES. 

We  found  cold  rough  weather  in  the  Japan  Sea.  But  few  whales 
were  seen,  and  they  were  very  shy,  and  when  harpooned  were  real 
race  horses.  I  was  fast  to  one  eight  hours  before  he  gave  me  a  chance 
to  pierce  his  lungs  with  my  lance. 

After  taking  six  whales  that  made  only  five  hundred  barrels  of  oil 
and  five  thousand  pounds  of  bone,  and  having  had  two  boats  stove  in, 
two  men  severely  injured,  and  my  officers  and  men  demoralized  with 
fear,  I  put  my  ship  away  to  the  north,  running  near  the  land  on  the 


I 


103 

west  coast  of  Japan.    Mucli  ice  was  seen,  and  navigation  became  diffi- 
cult and  dangerous. 

Passing  through  La  Perouse  Straits,  we  entered  the  Sea  of  Yesso, 
where  we  again  encountered  field  ice.  Coasting  along  the  north  shore 
of  the  Island  of  Yesso,  on  the  most  northern  shore  of  Japan,  I  man- 
aged, after  many  days  of  anxiety  and  nights  of  wakefulness,  to  get 
through  Pico  Channel  into  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

COASTING   PAST   THE   KURILE   VOLCANOES. 

We  steered  to  the  northeast,  keeping  the  Kurile  Islands  in  sight. 
Many  of  the  islands  were  lit  up  by  volcano  fires  by  night  and  their 
chimneys  smoking  by  day. 

One  of  these  chimneys  is  worthy  of  special  mention.  It  is  in  lati- 
tude 46  degrees  35  minutes  north,  and  longitude  150  degrees  30  minutes 
east.  I  should  judge  its  base  to  be  one-third  of  a  mile  in  diameter, 
and  the  top  not  more  than  ten  feet  in  diameter.  Its  height  must  have 
been  from  two  to  three  thousand  feet. 

"We  sighted  it  at  five  o  'clock  in  the  morning  and  it  was  five  o  'clock 
in  the  evening  before  we  ranged  up  alongside  of  it,  within  a  quarter 
of  a  mile.    We  could  see  the  gulls  perched  on  its  crags. 

When  we  first  saw  it,  it  must  have  been  one  hundred  miles  distant, 
as  we  ran  twelve  hours,  making  eight  or  nine  miles  an  hour. 

It  was  belching  out  liquid  fire  as  we  passed,  making  a  most  bril- 
liant display  even  in  the  day  time,  and  after  dark  it  was  grand  be- 
yond description. 

FORCING  THE  ICE  PACK. 

After  a  few  days  we  again  entered  the  Yesso  Sea  through  the 
Aniphitrite  Straits,  where  we  had  entered  the  year  before  in  a  gale 
of  wind  and  a  blinding  snow  storm. 

Steering  to  the  south  we  saw  much  field  ice  with  open  channels,  so 
we  made  our  way  until  in  latitude  55  degrees  30  minutes  north.  Here 
we  came  to  heavy  packed  ice.  Steering  to  the  east  along  this  barrier 
for  some  days,  we  sighted  the  west  coast  of  Kamchatka.  When  near 
the  land  I  found  an  open  passage  to  the  north.  Into  this  I  put  the 
ship,  though  with  some  misgivings  as  to  the  safety  of  the  ship,  should 
a  westerly  gale  come  up,  forcing  the  ice  onto  the  shore. 

After  running  some  forty  miles  up  the  coast,  night  came  on  and 
we  anchored  in  fifteen  fathoms  of  water. 

About  midnight  a  breeze  came  up  from  the  west,  and  soon  the  ice 
began  to  move  down  on  us,  and  it  was  not  long  before  the  strength 
of  our  cables  and  anchors  was  put  to  the  test. 

Fortunately  for  us,  no  heavy  body  of  ice  struck  the  ship,  and  she 
escaped  with  the  loss  of  a  part  of  her  cutwater  and  some  of  the  copper 
and  sheathing  from  her  bows. 


104 
FAST   IN   THE   ICE. 

When  daylight  came  we  found  our  ship  enclosed  by  ice  on  all  sides, 
and  between  us  and  the  land  was  a  safe  bridge.  The  wind  continued 
to  blow  on  shore  for  three  days  and  nights.  Then  came  a  three  days' 
calm.     The  ice  did  not  move,  neither  did  our  ship. 

The  men  were  on  shore  much  of  the  time.  Three  moose  were  shot, 
that,  dressed  off,  altogether  weighed  2700  pounds. 

Five  reindeer,  three  of  them  fine  large  bucks,  were  added  to  our 
stores.  Hair  and  fur  seal  were  plentiful;  but  it  was  out  of  season 
for  fur,  so  they  were  not  molested. 

FIGHT  WITH  A  HE-BEAR. 

I  made  one  excursion  of  ten  or  twelve  miles  inland.  There  was 
much  snow  in  the  ravines;  many  black  bears  were  seen,  but  only  one 
was  shot,  and  he  because  of  his  warlike  attitude.  He  was  a  large  cin- 
namon bear  of  the  male  "persuasion,"  and  he  stood  for  his  rights. 
When  within  thirty  or  forty  feet  of  the  brute  I  saw  he  meant  busi- 
ness, and  drawing  up  my  forces  in  line  of  battle,  I  ordered  the  man 
having  one  of  our  two  guns  to  fire.  He  did  so,  aiming  a  little  back 
of  the  shoulder. 

The  bear  did  not  fall,  but  with  a  terrible  roar  rushed  upon  us. 
When  he  was  within  fifteen  feet  I  opened  fire,  pouring  a  charge  of 
buckshot  into  his  mouth,  face  and  eyes.  It  is  needless  to  say  he  drop- 
ped dead.  "We  left  him  alone  in  his  glory,"  on  his  native  sod. 
He  was  a  plucky  brute. 

EXPLORING    IN    KAMCHATKA. 

When  about  two  thousand  feet  above  the  ocean,  we  came  to  a  black, 
rocky  strata,  which  extended  north  and  south  along  the  coast  so  far  as 
the   eye   could   reach. 

Here  we  halted  for  lunch.  The  day  was  bright  and  sunny  and  the 
view  was  grand.  On  one  hand  there  were  snow-capped  mountains,  and 
on  the  other  an  ocean  of  ice,  with  green  fields  intervening,  divided  by 
ravines  and  gorges,  packed  with  snow. 

On  these  green  fields  we  saw  reindeer  and  moose  in  large  numbers. 
Foxes  were  also  numerous  and  quite  tame.  Two  wolves  were  seen, 
but  they  considered  it  wise  to  keep  at  long  range. 

I  was  surprised  to  see  with  what  rapidity  vegetation  was  coming 
forward.  Grass  was  a  foot  high  on  the  10th  of  June,  and  buds  were 
opening  on  trees  and  shrubs. 

Mosquitoes  presented  their  bills,  but  they  were  not  so  numerous 
as  they  had  been  the  jirevious  year. 

At  five  P.  M.  we  reached  our  ship,  tired  and  foot-sore,  but  a  night 's 
rest  set  all  right.  But  all  we  could  do  was,  like  Micawber  in  Dickens, 
' '  wait  for  something  to  turn  up. ' ' 


105 

CLEAR  OF  THE  ICE  ONCE  MORE. 

A  gale  finally  came  from  the  land;  the  ice  moved  and  so  did  our 
ship.  A  clear  channel  opened  near  the  land,  permitting  us  to  go  on  our 
course  to  the  north. 

In  two  days  we  reached  the  northern  boundary  of  the  ice,  where 
we  found  a  large  number  of  whales,  and  our  business  commenced. 

I  "buckled  on  my  armor,"  and  the  first  day  I  brought  two  large 
whales  to  the  ship  without  any  mishap,  but  the  next  day  we  all  had 
to  swim,  as  the  whale,  in  his  death  struggles,  broke  the  boat  in  two 
near  the  middle.  Another  boat  took  us  to  the  ship,  and  we  soon  had 
our  third  whale  alongside. 

DEMORALIZED  OFFICERS. 

As  the  officers  were  anxious  for  another  trial  of  their  skill  and 
courage,  I  consented  to  let  them  try  their  hand.  Not  many  days  after, 
whales  were  seen,  and  I  was  pleased  by  having  a  fine,  large  whale 
brought  to  the  ship  by  my  mate. 

The  second  oflficer  seemed  demoralized  by  fear,  and  the  third  ofl&cer 
was  lacking  in  courage  and  energy,  so  the  capturing  of  whales  lay 
with  the  first  officer  and  myself. 

Cruising  along  the  northern  edge  of  the  ice,  we  saw  many  whales, 
and  by  the  first  of  August  we  had  taken  fifteen  w^hales  that  made  up 
sixteen  hundred  barrels  of  oil  and  twenty  thousand  pounds  of  bone. 

By  this  time  the  ice  had  disappeared,  and  so  had  the  whales. 

We  then  steered  to  the  west,  and  sighted  the  Asiatic  coast;  thence 
steering  to  the  southwest,  we  again  entered  the  Shantar  Island  Chan- 
nel. 

MORE  SHIPS  THAN  WHALES. 

Passing  into  the  bay  we  counted  some  twenty  ships,  all  in  search 
of  whales.  I  decided  to  leave  the  bay  at  once,  as  there  would  be 
two  boats  to  every  whale  that  came  in.  Without  anchoring  we  put 
away  to  the  north.  Sailing  along  near  the  coast,  we  sighted  Okhotsk 
City  at  the  mouth  of  Okhotsk  Eiver,  in  latitude  59  degrees  30  minutes 
north  and  longitude  157  degrees  east.  The  weather  being  fine,  I  went 
on  shore,  and  found  a  few  houses  and  but  few  people,  mostly  Esqui- 
moux  and  half-breeds  speaking  the  Russian  tongue. 

The  coast  seemed  bare  of  vegetation,  and  no  timber  was  visible. 

Salmon  were  numerous  in  the  river,  and  securing  a  good  quantity, 
we  returned  to  our   ship. 

WHALES  ATTACKED   BY   "KILLERS." 

Steering  to  the  east  along  the  coast,  we  saw  whales  near  the  land. 
Upon  going  nearer  we  saw  they  were  beset  by  "killers,"  a  species 
of  whale  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  length.  It  has  a  large,  high 
fin  on  the  back,  and  sharp  teeth  on  both  the  upper  and  lower  jaw. 


106 

The  whale,  when  feeding,  throws  his  mouth  wide  open  and  goes 
rapidly  through  the  water,  collecting  his  food  in  his  immense  mouth. 

Killers  watch  their  opportunity  and  rush  upon  the  whale  and  into 
his  mouth,  laying  hold  of  his  tongue,  which  is  a  soft,  fatty  substance, 
taking  out  a  large  quantity.  At  the  same  time  another  killer  will 
rush  in,  and  another,  until  the  poor  whale  is  deprived  of  his  tongue 
and  his  life. 

HARPOONING   BOTH   WHALES   AND   KILLERS. 

We  were  soon  alongside  of  the  whale  and  our  harpoons  were  thrown 
into  his  side;  but  the  whale  evidently  did  not  mind  being  harpooned, 
so  intent  was  he  on  getting  away  from  the  "killers." 

Pulling  up  to  the  whale's  head  I  threw  my  lance  into  one  of  the 
killers'  lungs,  causing  him  to  turn  fin  out  in  a  very  short  time;  and 
the  others  left  at  once  for  parts  unknown. 

I  soon  had  the  whale  dead  and  alongside  the  ship. 

The  "killer"  went  down  in  his  death  struggles,  and  was  seen  no 
more.  After  securing  the  oil  and  bone  from  the  whale,  we  steered  to 
the  east  along  the  coast. 

Passing  Tausk  Bay  we  entered  Ghipinsk  Bay.  Thence  sailing  to 
the  northeast  we  entered  the  gulf  of  Benjinsk,  in  latitude  61  degrees 
30  minutes  north,  and  longitude  58  degrees  east. 

Passing  up  the  Gulf  of  Penjinsk,  we  saw  many  small  whales  and 
took  four  that  made  only  one  hundred  and  fifty  barrels  of  oil,  and 
very  little  bone. 

KAMCHATKA    COAL    IN    SIGHT    FROM    THE    SEA. 

Coal  was  found  at  east  of  the  gulch  and  I  believe  it  is  there  in 
vast  quantities,  as  it  can  be  seen  cropping  out  high  and  low  on  the 
mountain  sides.  Packs  of  hungry  wolves  were  seen  on  the  hills. 
Heavy  timber  filled  the  ravines. 

After  a  stay  of  a  few  days  on  this  gulf  we  started  back,  passing 
out  on  the  west  side,  near  the  land.  A  number  of  settlements  were 
seen,  but  no  favorable  opportunity  for  landing  presented  itself,    t 

In  a  few  days  we  entered  Tausk  Bay,  where  we  found  a  number 
of  ships;  some  at  anchor  and  others  under  way;  some  trying  out  oil 
and  some  chasing  whales. 

We  joined  the  boats  which  were  in  chase,  and  soon  had  the  luck 
to  capture  a  large  cow  whale,  that  made  one  hundred  and  fifty  barrels 
of  oil  and  twelve  hundred  pounds  of  bone. 

We  remained  in  this  bay  through  the  month  of  September,  and 
took  five  whales,  making  up  a  season's  catch  of  twenty-two  hundred 
barrels  of  oil  and  twenty-four  thousand  pounds  of  whale-bone. 


107 
VISITING   A   SIBERIAN   TOWN. 

Around  Tausk  Bay  are  a  number  of  Kussian  settlements,  and  one 
pleasant  morning  we  landed  at  a  large  village  called  Tausk,  which 
lies  on  the  west  side  of  Amakhtouski  Gulf,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  Yana,  in  latitude  59  degrees  40  minutes  north,  and  longitude  150 
degrees  30  minutes  east. 

Leaving  the  ship  at  anchor  some  three  miles  off  shore,  I  was  cordial- 
ly received  by  the  officials  who  met  me  at  the  landing,  and  conducted 
me  to  the  largest  house  in  the  village,  which  proved  to  be  the  home 
of  the  padre,  or  priest.  All  who  entered  the  room  with  us  turned  to 
a  large  white  cross  which  stood  in  the  entrance  room  and  made  the 
sign  of  the  cross.  Out  of  respect  to  my  host  I  also  made  the  same 
sign. 

As  none  of  the  natives  could  speak  English,  and  we  could  not  speak 
the  Eussian  language,  our  communication  was  very  limited.  Their 
kindness,  however,  was  soon  manifested  by  a  well  spread  table.  A 
fine  large  salmon  was  taken  from  the  river  and  boiled  in  milk;  this 
with  vegetables  and  greens,  and  bread  and  butter,  made  a  sumptuous 
dinner. 

Among  the  many  who  came  to  see  the  foreigners  was  a  mute.  As 
I  understood  his  sign  language  we  got  up  a  conversation  at  once.  He 
was  a  bright  boy  about  sixteen  years  of  age,  and  seemed  delighted 
in  being  able  to  talk  with  me. 

A  SIBERIAN  VILLAGE  DANCE. 

Soon  after  noon  there  came  up  a  strong  gale,  blowing  on  shore  and 
making  it  dangerous  to  pass  out  of  the  river.  This  seemed  to  please 
the  people,  the  mute  especially,  who  laid  his  head  over,  closed  his  eyes 
and  commenced  breathing  like  one  asleep.  All  in  the  village  seemed 
much  pleased,  and  at  sundown  I  noticed  a  stir.  The  natives  were 
going  about  in  all  directions. 

I  consulted  with  the  mute  in  regard  to  what  was  going  on;  he  at 
once  jumped  out  on  the  floor  and  imitating  a  man  with  a  fiddle,  com- 
menced dancing.  The  excitement  ran  high,  and  soon  after  supper  the 
people  began  to  gather  in  the  padre 's  house.  One  room  in  this  house 
was  twenty  feet  wide  by  thirty  feet  long,  and  seemed  to  be  the  as- 
sembly room  for  all  occasions. 

About  eight  o  'clock  the  squeak  of  the  fiddle  was  heard,  and  the  fun 
began.  Gentlemen  in  knee  breeches,  and  ladies  in  trailing  skirts  were 
gliding  up  and  down  the  room. 

At  the  close  of  every  dance,  each  gentleman  kissed  his  partner  in 
the  most  approved  style,  I  was  strongly  urged  to  join  in  the  dance, 
but  excused  myself  because  I  was  lame.  Much  regret  was  manifested 
especially  by  the  padre  and  his  wife. 


108 
KISSED   BY   ALL  THE   LADIES. 

The  dance  went  gayly  on  until  past  midnight,  when  I  signified  to 
the  priest  that  I  was  tired  and  sleepy,  which  was  true,  my  rest  having 
been  broken  the  two  previous  nights. 

His  Eeverence  soon  brought  the  proceedings  to  a  close,  and,  after 
he  had  made  a  brief  speech,  all  the  ladies  present  formed  a  line  and 
marched  towards  me,  each  face  radiant  with  smiles. 

I  heard  some  suppressed  tittering,  and  took  in  the  situation  at  once, 
rising  to  receive  them  with  becoming  smiles.  As  they  passed,  each 
lady  gase  me  a  kiss,  which  I  immediately  returned.  This  act  was 
considered  due  to  me,  as  I  could  not  dance  and  had  had  no  partner 

to  kiss. 

The  dancing  was  well  performed;  some  of  the  numbers  excelling 
anything  I  had  ever  seen  in  a  ball-room.  The  last  dance  was  the 
Highland  Fling,  which  was  a  masterly  performance.  The  gentlemen, 
on  leaving  the  room,  gave  me  a  hearty  shake  of  the  hand,  and  a  grip 
that  might  have  been  Masonic. 

EXCHANGING  PRESENTS  WITH  THE  RUSSIANS.. 

When  I  awoke  next  morning  the  sun  was  shining  brightly  and  the 
birds  were  singing  in  the  trees  around  the  parsonage. 

About  ten  o'clock  a  large  caravan  came  into  the  village.  There 
were  about  twenty  horses  and  mules  and  twelve  men.  Every  Summer 
these  caravans  pass  along  the  northern  shores,  collecting  taxes  and 
buying  choice  furs.  Their  horses  were  large  and  fine,  resembling  the 
Canadian  stock. 

At  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  bade  our  newly  made  friends 
goodbye,  and,  with  a  boat  load  of  fine  salmon  that  had  been  caught 
for  us,  we  returned  to  the  ship. 

Next  day  the  priest  and  his  wife  with  a  number  of  others  came  on 
board  our  ship,  bringing  a  quarter  of  beef  and  fifty  large  salmon,  as 
a  present. 

In  return  I  gave  them  my  nice  dressing  gown,  which  I  had  never 
worn,  and  a  quantity  of  fancy  calicoes,  and  some  articles  of  cutlery. 
They  seemed  much  pleased  and  grateful  for  what  I  gave  them,  and 
left  with  much  ceremony,  the  priest  embracing  me  as  he  departed. 

CAPTURING  A  WHALE  NEAR  THE  KURILES. 

The  first  day  of  October  I  put  my  ship  away  for  the  Hawaiian 
Islands.  When  near  the  Kurile  Islands  a  large  whale  was  seen,  and 
with  my  mate  I  went  in  pursuit.  I  soon  got  up  to  the  whale,  and 
the  instant  the  harpoons  struck  him  he  rolled  over,  nearly  upsetting 
the  boat  with  his  fin.  Two  oars  were  broken,  two  men  thrown  over- 
board and  the  boat  nearly  filled  with  water. 


109 

Luckily  the  whale  did  not  run,  but  showed  his  disapproval  of  such 
proceedings  by  lashing  the  ocean  with  his  flukes.  Soon,  however,  he 
gave  me  a  chance  to  get  near  him,  and  I  set  his  life-blood  flowing  in 
large  quantities.  At  one  breath  he  threw  a  barrel  full,  or  more,  of 
his  warm  blood  into  our  boat,  drenching  us.  When  he  finally  turned 
fin  out,  I  noticed  he  floated  very  deeply,  and  I  had  fears  that  he 
would  sink,  as  they  often  do.  With  this  end  in  view,  I  secured  him 
alongside  the  ship  by  one  of  the  chain  cables.  As  the  weather  was 
threatening,  we  lost  time  in  getting  his  bone  and  blubber  on  board. 

HOW  A  WHALE  IS  HANDLED. 

When  a  whale  dies  on  his  side  with  one  fin  out  of  water,  a  chain 
with  two  rings,  one  large  and  the  other  small,  is  passed  around  the 
fin;  the  small  ring  being  hauled  through  the  large  one  and  drawn  up 
near  the  knuckle,  or  small  part  of  the  fin.  A  large  tackle  is  hooked 
into  the  small  ring  and  the  fin  is  hoisted  up,  and  the  blubber  or  fat 
is  cut  out  with  long-handled  spades,  and  the  fin  is  unjointed  at  the 
knuckle  bone. 

If  the  whale  dies  lying  on  his  right  side,  the  left  lip  is  taken  first. 
This  is  done  by  cutting  a  hole  in  the  lip  and  dropping  in  a  large  iron 
hook  attached  to  a  tackle;  the  lip  is  drawn  up,  cut  clear  from  the 
jaw  bone  and  hoisted  on  board. 

The  lip  of  a  large  whale  is  about  twelve  feet  in  length  and  weighs 
some  fifteen  hundred  pounds. 

The  next  to  come  is  the  head,  with  the  bone,  which  weighs  from 
one  to  two  tons,  according  to  the  size  of  the  whale.  The  other  lip  is 
taken  next;  and,  after  that,  the  throat  and  tongue,  which  weighs  from 
four  to  five  tons.  I  once  took  thirty  barrels  of  oil  from  the  tongue  of 
a 'large  whale.    Ten  barrels  to  a  ton  would  make  three  tons  of  oil. 

DISCIPLINING  THE  SECOND  MATE. 

When  the  throat  and  tongue  were  landed  on  deck,  I  gave  orders  to 
hoist  in  the  blubber  from  the  whale's  body.  At  this  moment  the 
second  mate  run  a  spade  down  into  the  whale's  lungs. 

The  effect  was  like  opening  the  valve  of  a  steam  boiler  with  a  hun- 
dred pounds  pressure. 

Hot  air  and  blood  were  blown  thirty  feet  high  and  the  whale  be- 
gan to  sink  at  once,  tearing  off  the  fin  and  disappearing.  The  chain 
cable  was  my  last  hope,  but  the  third  time  that  the  ship  rose  on  the 
crest  of  the  wave,  the  chain  parted  and  the  question  of  saving  the 
whale  was  at  an  end;  so  we  steered  on  our  course. 

I  inquired  of  the  second  officer  why  he  had  done  such  a  foolish  act, 
and  as  he  gave  an  insolent  answer,  I  ordered  him  to  his  room.  He 
hesitated  about  going  and  I  escorted  him  to  the  room  without  cere- 
mony. I  locked  him  in  and  kept  him  there  until  we  arrived  in  port 
at  Honolulu. 


110 

Nothing  worthy  of  special  remark  occurred  on  the  passage.  Our 
whale-bone  was  made  clean  by  scraping  and  washing.  It  was  then 
dried  and  packed  in  one  hundred  pound  bundles,  and  stowed  away  in 
the  ship's  hold. 

AT  HONOLULU— OFF   FOR   HOME. 

On  arriving  at  Honolulu  I  took  the  second  mate  to  the  American 
Consul 's  office  and  gave  him  his  lawful  discharge,  paying  him  his  share 
of  the  season's  catch,  which  he  did  not  deserve. 

After  remaining  in  port  two  weeks  and  recruiting  for  our  voyage 
home,  we  sailed,  intending  to  cruise  on  the  way  for  sperm  whales. 

The  fourth  day  out  from  Honolulu  a  man  who  did  not  belong  to 
the  ship's  company  showed  himself  on  deck.  I  called  him  aft  and 
questioned  him  closely,  and  found  he  was  a  deserter  from  another 
ship.  I  assigned  him  to  the  starboard  watch  and  told  the  second 
mate  to  keep  a  watch  on  him,  as  I  did  not  like  the  "cut  of  his  jib." 

Everything  went  smoothly  on  board  until  we  reached  latitude  12 
degrees  south  and  longitude  160  degrees  west.  The  weather  was 
pleasant  and  had  been  since  we  passed  the  equator. 

Southeast  trade  winds  were  blowing  and  the  sea  was  smooth;  not  a 
cloud  was  visible  in  the  heavens;  every  sail  was  stretched  to  catch  the 
breeze,  and  help  us  on  our  course. 

A  WHIRLWIND   STRIKES   THE   SHIP. 

At  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  I  heard  the  officer  of  the  deck 
give  the  order,  "Stand  by  the  royal  halyards!  "  I  jumped  out  of  my 
berth  and  as  I  was  going  on  deck,  the  crash  came. 

A  whirlwind  struck  the  ship  forward,  taking  the  foremast  off  in 
the  wake  of  the  foreyard — breaking,  or  twisting  the  fore  topmast  in 
many  pieces,  also  the  fore  topgallant  mast  and  jibboom.  The  main 
topmast  and  main  top  gallant  mast  were  also  carried  away,  and  it 
was  all  done  in  less  than  a  minute's  time.  Nothing  was  harmed  on 
the  mizzen  mast. 

The  ship 's  spars  and  rigging  were  blown  alongside  and  on  deck.  No 
one  was  hurt,  which  was  a  wonder. 

All  hands  went  to  work  to  clear  away  the  tangle.  Standing  rig- 
ging, running  rigging  and  broken  spars  were  lashed  together,  and 
thirty  men  were  kept  busy  all  day,  getting  ready  to  begin  repairs. 
For  five  days  we  worked  early  and  late  repairing  the  damage  which 
had  been  done  in  one  moment.  When  we  had  succeeded  in  getting 
everything  "ship  shape,"  we  went  on  our  course  to  the  south. 

REMARKABLE  CONVERSION  OF  HERVEY  ISLANDERS. 

In  a  few  days  we  sighted  Aitutahi,  one  of  the  Hervey  group,  in 
latitude  19  degrees  south,  and  longitude  159  degrees  40  minutes  west, 
where  I  had  landed  on  my  previous  voyage. 


Ill 

I  obtained  a  quantity  of  fine  tropical  fruit  and  vegetables  at  rea- 
sonable rates  at  this  place.  The  Eev.  Mr.  Eowell,  an  English  mis- 
sionary, was  still  there. 

I  think  the  conversion  of  the  people  on  this  beautiful  and  sunny 
island,  was  as  near  perfect  as  can  be  attained  on  this  earth.  They 
were  all  bound  together  in  Christ,  the  Savior  of  all  men  who  believe 
and  accept  the  offers  of  salvation  through  the  atonement  for  all. 

Mr.  Eowell,  when  speaking  of  the  happy  state  of  this  people,  said 
he  hoped  no  religious  cranks  would  ever  find  their  way  to  this  lovely 
island,  and  I  joined  him  in  the  wish. 

Sailing  from  this  lovely  spot  in  mid-ocean,  we  steered  to  the  south, 
keeping  a  sharp  lookout  for  sperm  whales. 

The  morning  on  which  we  sailed  from  the  island  of  Aitutahi,  of  the 
Hervey  group,  where  Mr.  Eowell  was  stationed,  we  had  a  light 
breeze  and  a  smooth  sea.  Whales  were  numerous  and  under  our  lee. 
Every  preparation  was  made  to  insure  success. 

The  first  mate,  whose  reputation  stood  high  as  a  sperm  whaleman, 
took  the  lead. 

The  second  mate  and  I  left  the  ship  at  the  same  time,  and  we  bore 
down  upon  our  prey,  sailing  side  by  side  within  speaking  distance. 

BULL    WHALE    BITES    A    BOAT    IN    TWO. 

When  near  the  whales,  and  at  the  same  time  my  mate  was  alongside 
of  a  cow  whale,  and  the  harpoons  were  being  thrown,  a  monster  bull 
whale  came  up  under  the  second  mate's  boat,  with  his  jaw  on  one  side 
and  his  junk  on  the  other,  and  severed  the  boat  in  two  pieces. 

The  men  jumped  and  struck  out  for  dear  life,  some  in  one  direction 
and  some  in  another. 

One  man  was  caught  by  the  arm  between  the  gunwales  of  the  boats 
as  they  came  together,  and  the  arm  broken  above  the  elbow_.  Another 
man  was  thrown  into  the  whale's  mouth,  but  scrambled  out  just  in 
time  to  escape  being  crushed:  but  had  his  arm  and  side  badly  lacer- 
ated by  the  sharp  teeth  of  the  whale. 

The  third  mate  came  up  and  I  turned  the  boat's  crew  over  to  him, 
and  went  on  after  our  game,  keeping  a  sharp  lookout  for  the  old 
boat-eater,  who  showed  himself  near  our  boat.  The  mate,  in  the 
meantime,  had  killed  his  whale,  or  had  him  spouting  blood. 

CHASING  A   TRIO   OF  WHALES. 

The  whales  had  started  off  to  the  leeward  on  a  double  quick,  but 
the  breeze  had  freshened  and  I  soon  came  up  to  the  "hindmost"  and 
in  went  the  harpoons.  There  were  three  of  her  sister  whales  with  the 
whale  we  were  after,  and  they  all  kept  together,  running  to  leeward 
and  making  good  time.     Hauling  up   in  the   suds,   I  played   on  the 


112 

loose  whales  until  I  killed  two  of  them;  then  I  gave  my  undivided 
attention  to  the  whale  that  was  taking  us  still  further  from  the  ship, 
which  was  already  four  miles  away.  I  soon  had  her  fin  out,  but  not 
until  she  whipped  the  corner  of  her  flukes  through  the  bottom  of  our 
boat. 

I  took  off  my  outside  shirt  and  stopped  up  the  hole  as  best  I  could, 
and  by  keeping  one  man  bailing,  we  were  able  to  keep  afloat. 

No  sooner  had  the  whale  turned  fin  out  than  I  saw  a  signal  of  dis- 
tress at  the  ship's  masthead.  Placing  a  flag  on  the  whale,  so  that 
we  might  afterwards  discover  its  whereabouts,  we  made  all  possible 
speed  to  the  ship. 

MATE    CRUSHED    BY    A    WHALE. 

On  arriving  alongside  I  was  told  that  my  mate  had  been  hurt  by  a 
whale  and  was  dying. 

On  gaining  the  deck  I  saw  a  sight  that  was  shocking  even  to  one 
accustomed  to  such  things. 

My  mate  lay  stretched  upon  a  mattress  on  the  quarter  deck;  lie 
was  foaming  at  the  mouth  and  unconscious.  I  ordered  hot  water  to 
be  brought;  and  placing  bags  of  hops  on  his  chest,  throat  and  shoul- 
ders, I  kept  them  wet  with  the  hot  water. 

In  a  few  hours  there  was  an  evident  change  for  the  better.  I  re- 
mained with  him  through  the  night,  and  also  gave  needed  attention  to 
my  other  patients.  In  the  meantime  my  ofl&cers  secured  two  of  the 
dead  whales  and  brought  them  alongside  the  ship. 

PATCHING  UP  THE   MATE. 

Early  in  the  morning,  my  mate  having  recovered  consciousness, 
I  made  an  examination  and^  found  the  right  shoulder  out  of  joint,  the 
collar  bone  broken  and  the  breast  bone  crushed  in  on  the  right  side. 
I  put  the  shoulder  bone  in  place  without  difficulty,  but  the  collar  bone 
taxed  my  skill  to  the  utmost. 

I  finally  succeeded  in  bandaging  it  in  place;  but  for  the  breast  bone 
I  could  do  nothing.  He  suffered  much  pain  in  the  right  lung,  but 
finally  recovered,  though  there  remained  a  depression  in  the  right 
breast. 

IN  DANGER  FROM  ICEBERGS  OFF  CAPE  HORN. 

Having  secured  the  oil  from  the  two  whales,  I  decided  to  return 
home  as  fast  as  the  breeze  would  permit. 

When  off  Cape  Horn  we  experienced  a  heavy  gale  from  the  north- 
east, which  is  unusual  there  in  January,  the  summer-time  of  that 
latitude.  We  were  blown  to  the  south  among  icebergs  without 
number. 


113 

Once  we  were  embayed  so  that  the  ocean  became  smooth.  While 
in  this  position  the  gale  abated  and  we  were  becalmed  for  twenty-four 
hours. 

The  current  took  our  ship  alongside  of  a  big  iceberg,  and  we  landed 
and  took  on  board  a  quantity  of  ice,  after  which  we  ran  a  line  to 
another  berg  some  six  hundred  fathoms  distant  and  hauled  our  ship 
off.  It  looked  at  one  time  as  though  our  ship  would  be  crushed 
between  these  mountains  of  ice. 

When  the  breeze  came  there  was  only  one  avenue  of  escape,  and 
that  was  fast  closing  up.  When  out  of  that  bay  I  felt  relief — but 
still  we  had  to  steer  on  many  different  courses  to  get  out  of  the 
tangle. 

MURDEROUS  MUTINY  ON  BOARD. 

Wjhen  in  latitude  20  degrees  south  and  longitude  30  degrees  west, 
while  seated  at  my  table  in  the  cabin,  I  heard  an  unusual  noise  in 
the  forward  part  of  the  ship.  I  hurried  on  deck  and  saw  my  second 
mate  and  another  man  down  on  the  deck  fighting,  and  a  third  man 
with  a  deck  bucket  in  his  hand  beating  the  officer  on  the  head. 

In  an  instant  I  was  there  and  with  my  fist  struck  the  man  with  the 
bucket  under  the  ear,  the  force  of  the  blow  aud  rush  knocking  him 
headforemost  under  the  windlass. 

FIGHTING   WITH   ONE   AGAINST    SIX. 

At  this  moment  six  other  men  rushed  up  from  the  forecastle, 
shouting: 

"Kill  him!    kill   him!" 

Within  my  reach  was  hanging  a  number  of  white-oak  heavers,  used 
for  lashing  spars  and  anchors.  I  caught  one  of  these  and  with  a 
jerk  snapped  off  the  lanyard  by  which  it  was  hanging. 

I  dealt  the  first  man  who  rushed  upon  me  a  blow  that  broke  his 
under  jaw  and  felled  him  to  the  deck.  In  an  instant  two  more 
rushed  upon  me.  One  raised  his  arm  to  ward  off  the  blow  and  re- 
ceived a  fractured  wrist; — the  other  was  felled  with  the  bridge  of  his 
nose  broken.     The  other  desperadoes  retreated. 

It  was  the  stowaway  who  began  the  row  with  the  second  mate; — 
and  afterwards  I  learned  that  a  xilan  was  made  up  to  put  the  captain 
and  officers  out  of  the  way  and  then  run  the  ship  ashore  on  the 
island  of  Trinidad,  which  was  then  not  far  distant. 

A    TRINIDAD    GHOST    STORY. 

Eegarding  the  island  of  Trinidad,  mentioned  above  in  connection 
with  the  mutiny  that  developed  aboard  the  Arctic,  there  is  a  legend. 
Ships  passing  near  it  during  the  night  are  said  to  be  visited  by 
apparitions. 

8 


114 

The  form  of  a  sailor  will  appear  at  the  wheel,  frightening  the  helms- 
men away,  and  immediately  the  ship's  head  will  be  turned  toward 
the  island;  if  the  helm  is  not  taken  by  force  from  the  spectre,  the 
ship  will  be  run  on  ashore.  In  early  times,  near  approach  to  this 
island  was  avoided  by  ship  masters. 

As  the  legend  goes,  a  ship  was  run  on  the  shore  of  Trinidad  island 
by  the  crew,  who  murdered  the  captain  and  officers. 

I  once  sailed  with  a  man  who  declared  that  he  had  passed  the 
island  in  the  night,  and  the  man  at  the  wheel  had  been  driven  away. 

The  mate,  who  was  a  courageous  man,  booted  the  ghost  from  the 
wheel  and  put  the  ship  on  her  course.  I  have  heard  this  story  from 
many  sources,  but  take  no  stock  in  gnost  stories. 

At  the  time  our  skirmish  began  the  third  officer  was  sleeping,  it 
being  his  watch  below,  and  the  mate  had  not  recovered  from  his 
injuries  previously  mentioned.  The  mutineers  doubtless  thought  they 
could  easily  accomplish  their  outrageous  designs. 

INVESTIGATING  THE   MUTINY. 

Soon  after  the  battle  subsided  I  mustered  all  hands  aft  on  the  lee 
side  of  the  quarter  deck,  except  three  who  were  not  able  to  be 
present  on  account  of  their  wounds. 

After  questioning  the  men  closely,  I  found  that  the  man  who  had 
stowed  himself  away  on  the  ship  was  the  leader  in  the  mutiny.  I  put 
handcuffs  on  him  and  assigned  him  to  a  small  dark  room  under  the 
ship's  cabin,  his  rations  being  hard  bread  and  water.  I  then  went  to 
look  after  the  wounded   men. 

The  man  with  the  broken  jaw  was  suffering  intense  pain.  I  found 
two  double  teeth  so  loosened  that  I  easily  took  them  out  with  my 
fingers;  then  pressing  the  broken  bones  in  place,  I  left  him  to 
meditate  upon  his  folly.  Two  others  were  treated  to  liniment  and 
good  advice.     So  the  show  ended  for  that  day. 

PATCHING    UP    THE    MUTINEERS. 

Early  the  next  morning  I  visited  my  patients  and  found  the  man 
with  the  broken  wrist  suffering  much  pain.  I  had  three  men  hold 
him  while  I  put  the  splintered  bones  in  place  and  applied  bandages. 
The  operation  was  a  success.  The  man  with  a  broken  nose  then 
received  my  attention.  It  was  a  delicate  job  to  probe  the  nostrils, 
press  the  bones  out  and  hold  them  in  place;  but  with  cotton  wool  and 
bandages  I  succeeded,  and  the  man  came  out  of  the  smoke  of  battle 
with  a  nose  as  good  as  new. 

TERMS   OF   PARDON   TO   THE   RINGLEADER. 

After  five  days'  solitary  confinement  Mr.  Eingleader  sent  word  by 
the  steward  that  he  wished  to  see  me.     Stepping  to  the  akuttle  lead- 


115 

ing  to  his  place  of  confinement  I  inquired  what  he  Tvished.  He  re- 
plied, "I  want  to  be  released  and  go  on  duty."  I  told  him  he  could 
do  so  by  going  on  deck,  getting  on  his  knees  and  begging  pardon  of 
the  ship's  company  for  getting  them  into  trouble.  He  replied,  "Cap- 
tain, that  is  hard."  I  said  that  no  other  conditions  would  be  of- 
fered, and  left  him. 

The  next  day  he  sent  word  that  he  would  comply  with  my  demand. 
I  immediately  called  all  hands  on  the  quarter-deck  and  the  prisoner 
was  marched  on  deck.  Dropping  on  his  knees  he  begged  the  men  to 
forgive  him  for  the  wrong  he  had  done  them. 

THOUGHT    A    PRAYING    CAPTAIN    WOULD    NOT    FIGHT. 

Then  turning  to  me  he  said: 

"Captain,  I  have  always  believed  that  a  religious  man  would  not 
fight;  but  you  have  cured  me  of  that  belief,  and  I  humbly  beg  your 
pardon  and  solemnly  promise  to  be  a  better  man  hereafter." 

I  took  him  by  the  hand  and  helped  him  to  rise  from  his  kneeling 
position,  promising  him  that  I  should  hold  no  hard  feelings  toward 
him,  and  that  I  would  do  all  I  could  to  help  him  to  become  a  better 
man. 

I  had  no  further  trouble  with  the  men  on  the  passage  home. 

IN   THE    HORSE   LATITUDES. 

We  sighted  Cape  St.  Kouque,  on  the  Brazilian  coast,  in  latitude 
6  degrees  S.  and  longitude  35  degrees  25  minutes  W. 

On  the  Equator  we  had  a  ten  days'  calm,  and  intensely  hot 
weather,  the  sun  being  nearly  overhead.  As  it  was  nearly  forty 
months  since  we  had  left  our  home,  these  calms  were  trying  to  the 
nerves. 

In  latitude  20  degrees  N.  is  what  is  known  as  the  "Horse  Lati- 
tudes," on  account  of  vessels  in  early  times  being  becalmed  with 
horses  on  board.  Getting  short  of  water  the  horses  would  die  of 
thirst  and  be  thrown  overboard. 

After  a  ten  days'  calm,  during  which  time  we  made  only  about 
fifty  miles,  a  breeze  came  and  we  steered  on  our  course  for  New  Bed- 
ford,  arriving  there   early  in   April,   1855. 

SETTLING    IN    MINNESOTA. 

Eemaining  at  home  until  the  fall  of  1856,  I  went  to  Minnesota  and 
invested  my  money  in  land  in  St.  Paul  and  Cannon  Falls.  Had  I 
invested   in  Minneapolis  I  might  have  been   a  wretched  millionaire. 

At  Cannon  Falls  I  built  a  residence  and  engaged  in  farming.  Two 
years'  experience  cured  me  of  my  love  for  agriculture.     While  I  was 


116 

engaged  in  whaling,  thirty  men  used  to  appear  when  I  called  "All 
hands!" — but  on  the  farm  no  one  but  the  dog  responded. 

The  winters  were  so  severe  that  I  resolved  to  go  to  a  more  genial 
clime.  Leaving  my  wife  at  Cannon  Falls,  in  March,  18.59,  I  took 
the  first  steamer  that  came  up  the  Mississippi  for  La  Crosse,  and 
traveled  thence  by  rail  to  Boston. 

BACK  TO  SEA  AGAIN— CAPTAIN  OF  MORNING   STAR. 

I  looked  around  Boston  and  New  York  a  few  weeks,  but  finding 
nothing  to  do  I  resolved  to  return  to  the  Sandwich  Islands.  I  there- 
fore took  passage  in  the  steamer  Colon  for  San  Francisco,  via 
Panama.     Arriving  in  July,  I  sailed  for  Honolulu. 

Here  I  remained  until  June,  1860,  when  I  took  charge  of  the  mis- 
sionary packet  Morning  Star,  belonging  to  the  American  Board  of 
Foreign   Missions. 

This  vessel  was  engaged  in  transporting  missionaries  and  their 
supplies  to  and  from  Honolulu  and  Micronesia,  and  from  one  island 
to  another. 

MORNING    STAR    LOST    WITH    ALL    ON    BOARD. 

I  remained  master  of  the  Morning  Star  until  1866.  The  vessel 
then  became  unseaworthy  and  was  sold  out  of  the  missionary  service. 
She  was  repaired  and  sent  to  Hongkong  in  1867,  commanded  by  Cap- 
tain Dillingham, — and  she  has  never  been  heard  from  since.  Captain 
Dillingham  was  with  me  on  one  voyage  on  the  same  vessel,  as  second 
mate. 

In  the  year  1873  I  commanded  the  new  Morning  Star  during  one 
voyage. 

The  following  year  I  came  to  California,  where  I  have  since  re- 
sided,  excepting  three  years  spent  in  Massachusetts. 


AiCf.^^eMr' 


(The  End) 


INDEX 


Page 
Adventures;    See    "Bears," 
"Gelett,"    "Lion,"    "Mutiny," 
"Negroes,"    "Storms,"    "Wal- 
rus,"   "Waterspout,"   "Whales." 
Africa,    Experiences    in...  14-15,    26-28 

Air  current,  Remarkable    71 

Albatross,    Description,    Habits    of      58 
Aldabra   Island,    Experiences   at..      16 

Arctic,   Snow  storms  in 82,    83 

Armstrong,      Rev.      Richard,      Ac- 
quaintance  with    47 

Augustine    Bay,    Madagascar;    Ex- 
periences at    28 

Avalanche,  A  race  with  an 67 

Barker,    Capt.,    converts   Gelett   in 

Indian  Ocean    41 

Bears,  Adventures  with 

74,    76,    89-92,    96,    97,    104 

Behring     Island,     Narrow     escape 

from  shipwreck  on    49 

Birds,  Sea,  Description  and  habits 

of    58,   59 

Remarkable  flights  of  in  Yel- 
low Sea  and  Arctic.  .70,  85,   86 
Brazil,  Gelett  defies  government  of 

55-57 

Breakers,    Drifting   among   the...    101 
Brown,   Capt.,  Experiences  of  with 

lava  flow  and  earthquake.  ...  68,   69 
Burial  at  sea 80 

California  gold  fever.   Experiences 

with     71 

Canoeing  around  Hawaii 62 

Cape  Horn,  A  squall  off 35,   36 

Among  the   icebergs  off 112 

Ship  on  beam  ends  off 73 

Cape   of   Good   Hope,     Man     over- 
board  off    10 

Storm  off  described 28 

Chamberlain,    Mr.    and    Mrs.,    Ha- 
waiian missionaries 33 

China    Sea,    Experiences   in 100 

Coal  in  Kamchatka    106 

Cocos   Island   described    78 

Collision     with     a     French     whale 

ship    49 

Conversation  heard  at  distance  of 

five  miles    93 

Currants,    Wild    in    Siberia 91 

Dabney,       American       Consul      at 

Fayal,    Acquaintance    with...  51,    52 
Damon,   Rev.    S.    C,   Acquaintance 

with    34 

Delagoa  Bay,  Description  of 26 

Dillingham,       Captain,       lost      on 

Morning    Star     116 

Dismasting  of  ship  in  storm 110 

Drunkenness,   Deadly  results  of .  .  20 

Earthquake,  Experiences  with.  ...      67 
Emerson,     William,     Voyage     and 
death   of    79,   80 

Falkland  Islands,  Description  of .  .  59 

Fall  from  masthead _.  22 

Fayal,   Description   of  and   experi- 
ences at    9,   51,  52 


Page 
Feychelle  Islands,  Experiences  in  16 
Fight;   See    "Gelett,   Fight  of." 

Galapagos   Islands,   Description   of 

Tortoise   at    31,    78,  79 

Gambler,    How  one   was   reformed  22 
Gelett,   Acquaintance  with  Hawai- 
ian missionaries 

33,   34,   47,   66,   67,  99 

Adventure    with     savages     at 

Delagoa  Bay    26,  27 

Adventure      with      a      whale, 

given  up  for  lost 95 

Arctic  Ocean,   Vovage  to .  .  .  . 

72,    82,    85,  05 

Attacked  by  a  lion 14 

Attacked  by  negroes 15 

Attempt  of  to  harpoon  a  bear  76 

Birth   and  ancestry  of 7 

Brazilians  fired  on  by 55 

Captain    of    Morning    Star...    116 

Captain    on    fifth    voyage....  29 

Caught  by  tide   in  a  cave...  16 

Church  joined  by  in  Honolulu  47 
Collision       with       a      French 

whaleship    49 

Conversion   of    41 

Dines   with   Kamehameha   III  33 

Disciplines   mate    109 

Dismasting     of     ship     under 

control  of 110 

Dragged    by    the     leg    by     a 

whale    4,  21 

Early  life  of 8 

Experiences     among    icebergs 

off  Cape  Horn 112,  113 

Experience  in   a  hurricane.  .  .  17 
In    a    storm    in    the    Arc- 
tic  75,    82,    85,  95 

In   storm   off  La   Plata.  .  73 
In    storm   in   the   N.   Pa- 
cific     81 

In   storm  off  Cape  Horn 

, 35,    36,    73,  74 

With     birds     in    Yellow 

Sea 70 

With  a  Mexican  man-of- 
war    36 

Fac  simile   signature  of  .116 

Falls   through   the   skylight..  86 

Fight  of  with  bears 

90,   91,  92,   96,  97 

With      a      giant      kanaka 

sailor 2P 

With    mutineers    ...113,   115 

With   a    whale 

25,    32,    46,    77,    78,   93,  94 

With  a  walrus 76 

Fifth  voyage  of,  made  captain  29 

First    cruise    to   Hawaii 32 

First  voyage  of    9 

Fourth  voyage  of  .... 26 

Horse    runs     away    with,     at 

Lahaina     43 

In   Hawaii    

32,   62,  63,  66,  74,  99,  110,  116 

Kilauea.    Visit    to 63 

Life   at   home   after  marriage  41 


118 


Page 
Marriage    and    wedding    tour 

of     40 

Morning    Star,    Becomes    cap- 
tain  of    •  ■    11*5 

Narrow     escape     from     ship- 
wreck  49,   97,   99 

Narrow    escape    from    a    mar- 

lin  spike 48 

Navigation  learned  by 24 

Religious  life  of 34,  41,  44,  47 

Rescues    man    overboard.  .  .  . 

10,    11,     81 

Reminiscences    of    4 

Residence  of  in  Honolulu...        4 
Retires    from    sea,    settles    in 

Minnesota    115,    116 

Returns  to  sea  and  Hawaii.  .    116 
Seamanship    of,    making    New 
Bedford  in  a  snow  storm.  .      38 

Second  voyage  of 20 

72  hours  without  sleep.  .  .  .  75,   76 

Sixth    voyage   of    41 

Third  voyage  of 24 

"Whales,  Capturing  three  at  a 

time     111.    112 

Whale,   Capture  of  first 24 

Knocked  ovprboard  by  a      45 
"Whaling      on      Sunday      and 
swearing  tabooed   by    ...  .      44 

"Whaling,   profits  of 50,    51 

Wrecked    by    a    whale 92 

Wrecked  in  a  sleigh 39,   40 

Gelett,  Mrs.,  Accompanies  husband 

to  sea    51 

Poem   by,    on    "Whaling"...      52 
Poem  by,   to  a  snow  bird..  50,    60 

Travels   about   Hawaii 62-69 

Ghosts  off  Trinidad  Island.  .  .113,    114 

Gold,  Hunting  for 77 

Gold     fever,     California,      Experi- 
ences  with    71 

Grigan,  "Visit  to.  Experiences  at.  .      70 

Guadalupe,    Cruising  off    77 

Gulick,   Rev.   L.  H.,   Acquaintance 
with     99 

Hawaii;    See   "Gelett  in  Hawaii." 
Hawaiian    sailor,    Desperate    fight 

with      29-31 

Hawaiians,   Hospitality   of 63 

Hervery  Islands,  Experiences  at.  .      72 
Conversion  of  people  of.  .110,  111 

Hilo,    Visit    to    described 66 

Hongkong,   Experiences  at    100 

Honolulu,   Gelett  resident  in 4 

Gelett  .ioined  church  at 47 

Visiting  at    

33.    34,    61,    69,    71, 

72,     74,     77,    79,    99,    110,    116 

Horans  reef,  Location  of 35 

Horse  latitudes,   Origin  of  name.  .    115 
Hurricane     in     Indian     Ocean     de- 
scribed           17 

Ice,   Arctic   experiences   with  ....  74-76 
Barrels  of  water  frozen  solid 

in    ship's   hold    82 

Barrier  in   the  Arctic 74 

Cutting   ship   out   of 87 

Fields  in   Okhotsk   Sea,    Mys- 
tery of    88 


Page 
Pack,      Experiences      in      off 

Kamchatka    103,    104 

Ship  described 86 

Storm  in  the  Arctic  described      85 

Whaling    in    the 84,    85 

Iceberg,   Explosion  of    75 

Off    Cape    Horn,    Experiences 

among    112-113 

lee-bound  in  the  Arctic    82 

Insane  sailor.  Fight  with  an... 29,   31 

Insanity  cured  by  a  bath 23 

Island,    Disappearance    of    an....      25 

Japan,    Description    of,    from    the 

sea     102 

Japan    Sea,    Whaling   in    102 

Juan  Fernandes,   Description  of.  . 

61,    62 

Kamehameha     III,      Gelett     dines 

with     33 

Kamchatka,   Coal  in,  Visible  from 

sea     106 

Experiences   in    83,    84 

Exploring    in     104 

Fast  in  the  ice  off 104 

Fight  with  a  bear  in 104 

Moose-hunting    in     84 

Mosquitoes    in    84 

Kilauea,  Volcano  of.  Visit  to.  De- 
scription   of     63-66 

Killers,   Attack  by  on  whales.. 105,   106 

Kona  storm  at  Lahaina 77 

Korean    Straits,    Whaling   in 101 

Kurile      Islands,     Description     of. 

Volcano    in     103 

Whaling  near 71,   108,   109 

Ladrone    Islands,    Description    of. 

Experiences   at    69,    70 

Lahaina,    Visit    to    in    1844 43 

Whaleships  in  a  storm  at.  .  .  .      77 
Laudanum   given   a  negro  to   drink      14 
Lava  flow.  Cattle  destroyed  by.  .  .      69 
Of  '68,  Description  of.  Expe- 
riences  in   connection   with 

68,    69 

Specimens    made    at    Kilauea     65 
La  Plata,   Experiences  in   a  storm 

off    73 

Lion.   Adventure  with  a 14-15 

Liquor,    Gelett    becomes    total    ab- 
stainer           19 

Liquor    sellers.    Experiences    with, 

in   Chili    50-51 

Lvman,    Rev.,    Entertained    by    at 
Hilo    66,   67 

Madagascar,  Experiences  at..  12,  26-28 
Mail,  Quick  arrival  from  Boston  34 
Man  overboard,  rescued  by  Gelett 

10,  81 

Marquesas,     Natives     treacherous, 

foreigners  vile   9" 

Masthead,    A   fall   from  the 22 

Maui.  Visit  to 32,  74 

Midnisht    sun,     a    puzzle     to    the 

chickens    76 

Minnesota,   Gelett  settles  in..  115,  116 


119 


Page 

Mirage,  Remarkable  example  of .  .  48 
Missionaries,  Acquaintance  with  in 

Hawaii 33,    34,   47,   66,   67,   99 

Acquaintance   with   in   Micro- 
nesia       99 

Moose-hunting  in   Kamchatka....  84 

Morning  Star,   Gelett  captain  of..  116 

Loss    of    116 

Mosquitoes  in  Kamchatka    84 

Murder   on   shipboard  described.  .  19 

Mutineer,   Punishment  of 114,  115 

Mutiny  on  board  ship 113,  115 

Napoleon,  Visit  to  grave  of 18 

Negroes,  Adventure  with.  .  .  .15,  26,  27 

Anecdotes    concerning    12-14 

Neptune,      Adventures      with      on 

crossing   equator    10 

New  Granada,  Experiences  in ...  .      79 

Olaa    described    66 

Plvmouth,   Experiences  and  sights 
in     40 

Queen  Charlotte  Islands,   Whaling 
near     32 

Red    Pepper    drink,     given     to     a 

negro     13 

Religious   life   led  by   Gelett 

34,    41,    44,    47 

Rio     Janeiro,     Experiences     at..  55,    57 
Robinson    Crusoe   Island,    Descrip- 
tion   of     61 

Russell,    Jane,    married    to    Gelett     40 
Russians    in    Siberia,    Experiences 
■with      107,   108 

Seamen's    Chapel    Honolulu;     At- 
tendance   of   Gelett    at 34 

Sever,    James    M.,     Death     of     at 
sea     53 

Shantar   Islands,    Storm   off..      97,   98 
Whaling    near    87 

Ships   wrecked   in   the   Arctic.  ...      75 

Shipwreck,  A  narrow  escape  from 

34,    35,    49,    81 

Siberia,    Experiences   in.. 90,    107,    108 

Slave    whipped    to    death    at    St. 
Catherine      23 

Smith,      Rev.      Lowell,      Acquaint- 
ance   with     47 

Snow,    Rev.    B.    G.,    Acquaintance 
with     99 

Snow     bird,     Poem     to     by     Mrs. 
Gelett    59,    60 

Storm  off  Cape  Horn  described..      73 
In  the  Arctic,  Experiences  in 

72,    82,    85,    95 

In    the    North   Pacific 81 

In  the  W'est  Indies  described     24 

Sturges,     Rev.     A.    A.,     Acquaint- 
ance   with     99 

St.     Catherines,     Pineapples     and 
experiences    at     23 

St.    Helena,    Visit    to    Napoleon's 
grave     18 

St.     Paul     Island,     Description     of 
and    experiences    at    42 

Sulphur     banks     at     Kilauea     de- 
scribed     .65,    66 

Swans,      Capturing      wild.      Fight 
with     93,    94 


Page 

Tahiti,  Visit  to    42 

Talcahuano,     Chili,     a    rum    hole; 

Description    of.    Experiences    at      50 
Temperance    ship.    Experiences    of 

in    Chili    50 

Tortoise  at  Galapagos  Islands  de- 
scribed     31,    79 

Traveling  by  donkey  express....      51 
Trinidad,   Ghosts  on  ship  near.  .  . 

113,    114 

Valparaiso,    Experiences   at 72 

Volcano    of    Kilauea,    Arrival    at. 

Visit   to.   Description   of 63-06 

Volcano,     Lava     flow     and     earth- 
quake   described    67-69 

Waiohinu,  Kau;   Experiences  at..  62 

Walrus,    A    fight    with 76 

Waterspout,    Narrow   escape    from  14 
West    Indies,    Terrific    storms    in 

described      24 

Whale,    Adventure    with    a    fight- 
ing       25 

Adventure  with,  given  up  for 

lost     95 

An  eighteen-hour   chase   after  88 

Bites    a   boat   in   two Ill 

Capture    of    first 24 

Collision   of   with    ship 45 

Description  of  and  method  of 

handling     109 

Desperate   fight  with  a.... 93,   94 

Fatal     fight     with 61 

Fight  with,   in   the  Arctic.  84,   85 
Gelett  dragged  by  leg  by  a.  .4,  21 

Gelett    knocked    over    by.  .  .  .  45 

Mate    knocked    overboard    by  44 

Mate    crushed    by     112 

Northern     characteristics     of. 

Fight    with     32 

Terrific    battle    with    a....  77,    78 

Towed   ten   miles   by   a.... 88,    89 

Yielding  200  barrels  of  oil.  .  83 

Whales,   Attacked  by   killer..  105,  106 

Chasing   a   trio    Ill,  112 

Description    of     18 

Frightened     away     by     storm  76 

How    caught     17 

Officers   scared  of...  79,   101,  105 

Plentiful    in    the   Arctic 83 

School    of    one    hundred 94 

Sperm,    Desperate    fight    with  46 

Profit    from     47 

Whaling  in  the  Japan   Sea 

71,     102,  103 

In   the   ice 84 

Near    the    Kuriles 108,  109 

Near     Queen     Charlotte     and 

Kodiac     Island     32 

Near    Shantar    Islands 87 

On    Sundav   and    swearing   ta- 
booed      44,    92 

Poem   on   bv   Mrs.   Gelett.  ...  52 

Profits    of.... 19,    47,    61,    71,    83 

Whaleship,    Crew   of   described...  24 

Whaleships    in    storm    at    Lahaina  43 

Whirlwind    strikes    the    ship 110 

yellow   Sea,   Remarkable   flight   of 
birds    in     "^0 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 

Los  Angeles 

This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stani|)ed  below. 


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